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How to change a steering cable.

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    KoolAid, yes correct. My seal is hard plastic and will not slide on. Tolerances are really tight. Probably going to take the tube out and hammer it on gently.

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      Thanks to everyone that contributed to this thread! I've read through your helpful notes a number of times and have used this as a reference to change out two steering cables over the years.

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        Hello everyone, I am a new member and a new owner of a 2002 21V. I have read through this thread and I want to thank everyone for the information!
        I finally got to run my boat on the lake yesterday and everything worked great except for the steering. It was really stiff going to the left, but was super easy going right and was worse at speed. Is this still a steering cable issue, or something else? Slow speed seemed to be a bit stiff both ways compared to the I/O boats I have had in the past. This is my first V drive.
        Thanks in advance for any information you can give!

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          Originally posted by Ringleader McCoy Circus View Post
          Hello everyone, I am a new member and a new owner of a 2002 21V. I have read through this thread and I want to thank everyone for the information!
          I finally got to run my boat on the lake yesterday and everything worked great except for the steering. It was really stiff going to the left, but was super easy going right and was worse at speed. Is this still a steering cable issue, or something else? Slow speed seemed to be a bit stiff both ways compared to the I/O boats I have had in the past. This is my first V drive.
          Thanks in advance for any information you can give!
          Sounds like the steering cable to me. very similar to how mine reacted when the cable went out.

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            Just got done my 2006 22ve. Steers like brand new, wish I would have done it years ago! Took about 3 hours to complete by myself. Would have went easier with a second person or at least if I was a bit smaller. 18’ cable is bang on right

            thanks for all the help in this post

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              Used this write up for the second time replacing the steering cable in my 2012 RZ4! A few minor differences from my 20V to the RZ4 overall this write still holds true after 10 plus years! This forum and its mechanically minded people continually save me money and allow me to fix things on my boat my self!

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                I have a 2004 Tige 24V that I need to replace steering cable. Anyone know part #?

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                  I believe the 24v took the 18", ssc13418

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                    Thank you, lee.

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                      I have a 93 tige 2000 slm comp boat. Well after a recent breakup im now left with a boat with no steering. I have no idea what im doing, i have someone thats willing to install the new parts but i dont know what to order. My ex said he turned to the left and the steering cable broke. Now taking it apart ive found a broken piece(the helm) i believe. What do i order to replace this? And do i replace the steering cable as well? Any help or suggestions would be fantastic!
                      Attached Files

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                        Originally posted by Stranges805 View Post
                        I have a 93 tige 2000 slm comp boat. Well after a recent breakup im now left with a boat with no steering. I have no idea what im doing, i have someone thats willing to install the new parts but i dont know what to order. My ex said he turned to the left and the steering cable broke. Now taking it apart ive found a broken piece(the helm) i believe. What do i order to replace this? And do i replace the steering cable as well? Any help or suggestions would be fantastic!
                        I would contact Dometic. They pretty much make all the steering parts now, and they can get you setup with the correct replacement parts

                        https://www.dometic.com/en-us/outdoo...nical-steering

                        But it looks like you just need a new helm. There basically two styles of helm, rotary and rack. Rack has a big rectangle on the back side of it, rotary has a big round unit.

                        It looks like if you have a rotary system, you’ll want this kit

                        https://www.dometic.com/en-us/outdoo...-module-250030

                        And if you have a rack you’ll want this kit

                        https://www.dometic.com/en-us/outdoo...ck-tilt-250029
                        Last edited by Zzzzz5; 07-15-2022, 09:28 PM.

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                          Originally posted by Ringleader McCoy Circus View Post
                          Hello everyone, I am a new member and a new owner of a 2002 21V. I have read through this thread and I want to thank everyone for the information!
                          I finally got to run my boat on the lake yesterday and everything worked great except for the steering. It was really stiff going to the left, but was super easy going right and was worse at speed. Is this still a steering cable issue, or something else? Slow speed seemed to be a bit stiff both ways compared to the I/O boats I have had in the past. This is my first V drive.
                          Thanks in advance for any information you can give!
                          I had the same thing with my 2100V when I first bought it. Super difficult to turn left, super easy to turn right. I replaced the steering cable and that fixed most of it. Replacing the helm, fixing swing arm alignment on the rudder, and lubing the clevis on the rudder arm fixed the rest of it.

                          It’s still marginally harder to steer left than right, but you can easily steer with one hand even at speed


                          Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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                            Originally posted by todd92 View Post
                            I finally got around to doing this. What a pain in the butt. The hole beneath the console where the cable exits the bilge 1) isn't big enough and 2) also was stuffed with the fill line for the front ballast and 2 hoses to connect the heater to the engine coolant. Even with the hoses pulled out with fish string attached, the hole is too small. The hole is also pretty much inaccessible, surrounded on 3 sides. After trying with a Dremel with no success, I finally cut the trim piece on the rear side about 10" up and then had access with a jig saw. I extended the hole 1 1/2" wide x 2" long to rear. The reason the hole needs to be bigger is the rod end of the cable gets wedged between the floor and the gas tank, extending the hole allows it clear. I also had to remove the 2 starboard gas tank hold down brackets, as the cable and one of the heater hoses was routed alongside the tank. After all this it went back together fairly easily.

                            A few observations.

                            1) I put this off most of the year, anticipating what a pain it would be, It was worse than a feared, yet worth it. The cable had gotten so worn it was difficult to steer at low speeds. Just do it.

                            2) Tige gave zero thought to replacing the cable. In fact. it's obvious the cable was installed early on in the build. There is NO reason the hole could not have been big enough. The is NO reason to route the cable alongside the gas tank. The hoses could have been routed through a second hole.

                            3) I put one of the accordion style rubber boots on the rod end instead of the little cap, however I don't think water is the culprit for the cable getting stiff. The rod end is not submerged in bilge water, at least not often. Mine is fresh water only and parked on a lift, so 99.9% of the time it's dry. There was still grease on the 7 year old rod, I do not think water was getting into the cable.

                            4) Iin the cable installation instruction there is very specific instructions regarding number of bends and bend radius. It says not following these instructions will greatly shorten the cable life. Tige must have thought it would be clean and neat to attach the steering and throttle cables to the back side of the console with screw mount cable ties. In doing so, the cable had 5 small radius bends between the rack and the hole. By eliminating this stupidity I now have one large radius bend from the rack to the hole and the cables are still not in the way of anything. I think this has more to do with longevity than water in the rod end, time will tell.


                            2012 RZR

                            Same here it looks like. Got all ready to replace my steering cable and cant get passed the 3" hole in the floor and the fuel tank doesnt allow enough room to get the 12" rigid end of the cable through. Guess my options are cut some fiberglass to make the hole bigger or see if I can route it down the starboard side; I fear I might have too much cable length if I go this route.

                            UPDATE: Routing the new cable down the starboard side gunnel is a good option to save from tearing up some fiberglass. Route down the starboard gunnel, make the turn towards the front of the transmission where the fuel filler hose is routed. Then curve around the front of the transmission and underneath the port side of the engine, back to the bracket/rudder. I installed the 19' standard cable from SeaStar. A 20' cable would be fine as well to afford a larger radius bend around the transmission. Prep the rudder end of the steering cable after getting to the front of the transmission but before routing it under the engine. I took all the measurements, mounted the black clamp, checked for orientation, applied marine grease, etc. Its still a mo-fo of a job. Lots of tight places. I needed a friend to help in some places. Good thing I can fit inside of both rear lockers to get to the rudder box area. Probably took me 2 days when it was all said and done, I'm def not the fastest mechanic; I like to take my time. Steering feels like butter so far in the garage. Going on the lake tomorrow to test it out.
                            Last edited by raceon16; 07-24-2022, 02:52 AM.

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                              I have my 06 in the shop right now for a different issue. The dealer called me to inform me the steering was tight and asked if I wanted them to change the cable out with the brand-new-in-box cable they found located in my boat. I had forgot I purchased one a few years ago anticipating to tackle this job myself. After stumbling across this thread again I'm sure glad I asked them to just change it for me and eat the ~$600 labour bill.

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                                In this process change a steering cable, when unfreezing the steering cable, need to lose the nuts and use a vise grip to release the tube from the arm. Turn the steering wheel until the cable is out. Clean and lubricate before returning.
                                Last edited by Dalton07; 04-14-2023, 03:55 AM.

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