How to change a steering cable.

[freeheel4life]

Just replaced the steering cable in my 2002 21v limited. Everything went great...but my buddy disconnected two hoses to get to the rudder arm and did not mark which one went where. I am not sure myself - we tried based off of hose/connection size but my boat which runs at 175 like a metronome began to over heat.

One hose is insulated and heavy duty and the other is not. Both hoses connect to the ports with the blue drain plugs. Any help would be greatly appreciated!! So bummed that the I got the cable swapped and this is what's holding me up.

THANKS!!

Sound like you are describing the raw water pump inlet and outlet hoses. Just flip flop them and you should be good to go. The stiffer hose is the suction side(stiffer so it doesnt collapse under vacuum), and the softer radiator type hose is the pressure side of the raw water loop.
Most the time the hardwall hose is on the bottom and radiator hose on top.

Be sure to get the hardwall tube all the way on and hose clamp good and tight. If the suction side can suck air it will, and cause raw water pump to not pull as much lake water.

[14burrito]

Does this appear like someone already cut flooring to make room for snaking in a new cable?20190529_192850.jpg

[lee]

Does this appear like someone already cut flooring to make room for snaking in a new cable?[ATTACH]51037[/ATTACH]

Yes

[14burrito]

Perfect, should make it easier when I replace it in the coming month. Thanks

[todd92]

Any suggestions on getting to the bolt/nut that attaches the cable to the tiller arm on a RZR? I can reach it with one arm and get a wrench on it and cannot get the other arm anywhere near it. I assume it's impossible to do without a helper with equally long arms? The rest of the job seems straightforward but I'm not starting until I figure this out. I took the bulkhead out above the rear of the engine and removed the intake cover which helps but still not near enough.

[freeheel4life]

Take a box end wrench and get it to bind up against something solid in the bilge. Then reach in with a second tool and take it off. If you cant get that to work its really not that much work to pull out the port plastic panels around the battery and then remove the battery. At that point you have miles of room. If you go this route DO NOT forget to make your life easy and zip tie the battery leads so a you dont miss a cable when you put the battery back in.

[todd92]

I had tried wedging a box end wrench against the bilge but it kept falling off. But your post got me brainstorming again and I got it. I duct taped the wrench to the bolt while wedged against the bilge so I could then unscrew the nut. Worked! Will work just as well the other way.

[freeheel4life]

SUHWEET!! Glad you won!!

[14burrito]

https://www.marinepartssource.com/tf...SABEgLzzvD_BwE

SSCX15419 is the "new" part number,
they have -1- left in stock as of now.
If you place the order, the know the part number change and make it happen.

Best deal I was able to find, thought I would share.
_____________________________________

just noticed they did in fact have the SSCX15419 on their site....at a higher price, curious what I will actually be getting charged lol

https://www.marinepartssource.com/xt...ions-sscx15419

[todd92]

I finally got around to doing this. What a pain in the butt. The hole beneath the console where the cable exits the bilge 1) isn't big enough and 2) also was stuffed with the fill line for the front ballast and 2 hoses to connect the heater to the engine coolant. Even with the hoses pulled out with fish string attached, the hole is too small. The hole is also pretty much inaccessible, surrounded on 3 sides. After trying with a Dremel with no success, I finally cut the trim piece on the rear side about 10" up and then had access with a jig saw. I extended the hole 1 1/2" wide x 2" long to rear. The reason the hole needs to be bigger is the rod end of the cable gets wedged between the floor and the gas tank, extending the hole allows it clear. I also had to remove the 2 starboard gas tank hold down brackets, as the cable and one of the heater hoses was routed alongside the tank. After all this it went back together fairly easily.

A few observations.

1) I put this off most of the year, anticipating what a pain it would be, It was worse than a feared, yet worth it. The cable had gotten so worn it was difficult to steer at low speeds. Just do it.

2) Tige gave zero thought to replacing the cable. In fact. it's obvious the cable was installed early on in the build. There is NO reason the hole could not have been big enough. The is NO reason to route the cable alongside the gas tank. The hoses could have been routed through a second hole.

3) I put one of the accordion style rubber boots on the rod end instead of the little cap, however I don't think water is the culprit for the cable getting stiff. The rod end is not submerged in bilge water, at least not often. Mine is fresh water only and parked on a lift, so 99.9% of the time it's dry. There was still grease on the 7 year old rod, I do not think water was getting into the cable.

4) Iin the cable installation instruction there is very specific instructions regarding number of bends and bend radius. It says not following these instructions will greatly shorten the cable life. Tige must have thought it would be clean and neat to attach the steering and throttle cables to the back side of the console with screw mount cable ties. In doing so, the cable had 5 small radius bends between the rack and the hole. By eliminating this stupidity I now have one large radius bend from the rack to the hole and the cables are still not in the way of anything. I think this has more to do with longevity than water in the rod end, time will tell.

[JohnnieMo]

Yes. Everything you just said.

I ended up just running my cable down the starboard side of the boat. It took 20 minutes after already wasting weeks cutting holes and cussing.

[KoolAid]

Yes. Everything you just said.

I ended up just running my cable down the starboard side of the boat. It took 20 minutes after already wasting weeks cutting holes and cussing.

This is the best method. No need to run it down the bilge like originally installed.

[Ajramos05]

I plan to replace the steering cable on my 2008 22ve. Does anyone know the model number of the cable I need to purchase? Also, how do I remove the panel over the gas tank at the center of the floor? Any assistance is appreciated. Thanks.

Jerry

[Teejay]

Any way to get the support tube seal back on the tube without removing the whole assembly? If assembly needs removing what is the best way?
6 bolts on the metal bracket that goes toward bottom of boat? (Easiest to reach)
4 bolts that pinch the support tube?
Nut that goes from floor bracket to knuckle.

[KoolAid]

If you are talking about the seal on the tube by the rudder it should be easy. Take the bolt out of the cable that mounts it to the tiller arm. The seal can just slide on. I suggest packing it with grease as well to reduce water getting into the cable and using a clamp or zip tie to help hold the seal in place.