DIY Ballast Install

[xpjim1]

Jimbo my man, got another ??? for ya. Or anyone else that knows.

Where did you get your "ballast" labelled switches, and do you remember the part number? Poked all around the net and cant find the labelled ones any where.

Thanks once again.

Got them from Lee. They do not match the other switches but they are labeled. Wish I did not misplace one of them

[chpthril]

Thanks Jim. I may check with my dealer and see what they would cost through Tige, or better yet, our dealer does thier own vinyl lettering, I may just have Debbie run my a small sheet of labels and do my own.


Maybe look something like this.

[xpjim1]

Good Luck. I tried buying just the actuator from tige. They would only sell the whole switch assembly

[chpthril]

Hate to think what Tige wants for them. For less then $10 ea, I can get switch, actuator, connector body, and terminals.

[CP3]

I'm hoping to use 1 thru-hull and T the drain and vent w/ a checkvalve on the vent side to prevent backfilling while draining.

I'm hoping that the port and starboard bilge vent hose holes will be big enough for me work through. My plan is to assemble the pump, harness, hoses, T, and then just feed it down the hole and secure the pump.

Have you looked into this anymore? is it possible?

[chpthril]

Have you looked into this anymore? is it possible?

Too much hassle V's price of another pump and Thru-hull for the other side. I can run both drain pumps off one switch.

[CP3]

Ok been looking in both threads and came up with a couple of questions.....

What kind of hose? how much? where did you get it?

Where did you find the ballast switches?

I have a lot of switches in my dash that are not used, could I used to stock realys for easier wireing?

[chpthril]

Ok been looking in both threads and came up with a couple of questions.....

What kind of hose? how much? where did you get it?

Where did you find the ballast switches?

I have a lot of switches in my dash that are not used, could I used to stock relays for easier wiring?

www.boatfix.com 1" reinforced w/red tracer SLD1621006 2 x 50'

I'm getting my switches from www.watyekwire.com and having vinyl labels made. They have switch, cover (button) connector body, terminals, and switch plates. Not sure if all your unused switches will work. They need to be 3 position (ON-OFF-ON) with a single lite to indicate they are in the ON position. I wouldn't worry to much about being back lite switches.

You wont need relays with the low-amp aerator pumps. If your boat is pre-wired and you can find it, us. This will save time and money.

[lee]

www.boatfix.com 1" reinforced w/red tracer SLD1621006 2 x 50'

That type of hose will start to kink & collapse after a good hot summers worth of use. We use this type of hose for our ballast Ballast Hose

[xpjim1]

I used one of the existing switches in my dash. It was the tower light switch. It was the only one that was correct. i replaced the shower switch and one other that were not being used with the spdt on-off-on switches.

[talltigeguy]

www.boatfix.com 1" reinforced w/red tracer SLD1621006 2 x 50'

That type of hose will start to kink & collapse after a good hot summers worth of use. We use this type of hose for our ballast Ballast Hose

I think that Lee is right on that one. The hose that came with the Rival system was such that you could try to kink it and it would not fold on itself to occlude flow. I have some of that type of hose for very short runs, and you can bend it in half and make it kink. Unkinkable is what we need.

[CP3]

where is the unkinkable?

all you old men need to stop being so kinky, ok I just couldnt resist

[CP3]

for a thru hull couldnt you use what jim used but put it on the bottom of the boat and cover it with this....
http://www.deepblueyachtsupply.com/series.aspx?id=147

[CP3]

Only problem with that ^ is how would you fix vapor lock?

[xpjim1]

My vapor lock will be gone this year. Many little tweaks going in.