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My new RZX2 - wake is terrible - what am I doing wrong?

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    #16
    Let us know how that wave is after. And get some bow weight, if you really want to love it.


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      #17
      After some more research, I discovered there was a recall on the Lenco actuators installed on Tige boats in 2017 and part of 2018. The numbers on my actuators are 5EDL2 and 4EGM2 which seems to fall into the recall category.

      The nearest Tige dealer is about 3 hours from my house. Are these actuators something I can replace myself or would it not be covered under warranty if I did it myself?

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        #18
        I did mine, under warranty. My dealer is 2 hours away, and weeks out for appointments.. I had to do a slight amount of convincing, but in the end they got Tige to drop ship them to me and I had them in a couple of days. Ultimately, Lenco and Tige know they suck, apparent as Tige is getting away from them next year, and are trying to appease customers as to not cause a complete uprising.

        With some pretty low level mechanical and electrical skills, I’d say you could do them, yourself in 2-3 hours.


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          #19
          If your so so handy it’s not a bad job. Only thing that was a bit tough was the wire connection.

          Not hard just take a few photos as you take the plug apart.

          Get some string so when you pull the wires that go to the actuator out the back of the boat it brings the string with it. This makes it a lot easier to pull the new actuator wire back into the boat.

          I did both of mine on the boat lift in the water. It’s easy but it takes a bit of time first go around.

          My actuators have failed twice.

          Stock failed
          Replacement failed
          Now on my 3rd one.

          Mind you they are individual failure as in one at a time. The dealer warranties them for me as I’m 9 hours each way.

          First time I had an issue boat was 20 hours old. Tige tech support called me to walk me through the repair. It’s shitty they break but it’s not a Tige only issue.

          Great service once your boat is fixed you will love how it surfs.


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            #20
            Thanks. I’m reasonably handy (have always done my own oil changes, spark plugs, etc on previous boats) so I’m going to look into doing it myself.

            Any special tools required? Are there torque specs for the bolts/screws? Do I need to buy a special sealant for where the mounting plate meets the hull? What did you guys use to splice the wires together?

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              #21
              You’ll be fine, then. It’s just a couple of pins holding the actuator to the plate and mount. The mount has 3 screws that attach it to the boat. I used 3M 4200 fast as a sealant, there are a few options that will work. And I think Freeheel told me you have access panels, which they didn’t have in 16, so I had to unscrew a bunch of panels, so you’ll probably save 20 minutes, right there.

              It looked like you can pull the pins out of the plug on the end of the electrical, but I was in a tight space with a headlamp, so I cut, stripped, and used blue heat shrink butt connectors with a piece of shrink tube over that. You’ll probably have to cut and replace a few zip ties, to get to your wires and clean everything up..

              I’d try and get them to give you 2 actuators, if they will. Both of mine were getting wonky around the same time.


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                #22
                Only "special" tool needed is a small flathead to depin the connector.

                Just to clarify some things that may also help Robricketts and zackdogg, Tige has a retro kit that helps with geometry and load place on the actuators that will help keep the actuators from taking in water and failing. They spent a lot of time on RandD with Lenco to arrive at that solution.

                I would recommend takin the steps necessary to get the swivels. Zackdogg, saw you have the straight up and down geometry which hasnt been as problematic in my experience.

                It definitely not just a Tige issue. Yesterday we had an xt23 and a z3 back to back with actuator failures. Supposedly Lenco is coming out with a new design that's supposed to be better. I think Tige cutting ties and goin Parker is the answer though.

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                  #23
                  I was actually thinking of replacing all 3 actuators as they all have numbers on them that fall into the recall category. Should I wait until the others fail to replace them or just do all 3 now?

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                    #24
                    Does that retro kit fall under warranty, or is it something you buy? I’m willing to throw anything on there, to avoid future issues, even if it isn’t that necessary. I’m actually strongly considering going to the GSA plates, as it sounds like people are digging those.

                    I wonder what that means for Lenco replacements under warranty??

                    Do you know if that Parker setup is a new design for Tige? Or if it’s something existing that I could retro onto a GSA plate??


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                      #25
                      Originally posted by BrentB View Post
                      I was actually thinking of replacing all 3 actuators as they all have numbers on them that fall into the recall category. Should I wait until the others fail to replace them or just do all 3 now?
                      If they’ll give you 3, no questions asked, I’d replace 3, especially if they fall under a recall.


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                        #26
                        I’m out of town right now so cannot check for myself — where do the wires for the actuators enter the boat on a 2018 RZX2? Do they enter into the engine compartment and/or the rear ballast lockers or do they enter subfloor into a non-accessible area? Just wondering because if somehow the spliced connection comes loose after pushing it back through the hull you’d be kind of screwed if it ended up in a inaccessible part of the boat.
                        Last edited by BrentB; 07-10-2019, 03:25 PM.

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                          #27
                          The wiring runs right through the upper actuator mount.. you’ll do any electrical in the back compartment between the transom, and your big back lockers. All the wiring will be tied up in the upper rear most corners of the boat.. I emptied the lockers out, and crawled down in them to do the wiring stuff. I’m a decent sized dude and I fit just fine. Unless you’re frigging gigantic, you should be good.


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                            #28
                            Thanks Zackdogg. You’ve been very helpful. It’s refreshing to participate in a forum where members are actually helpful.

                            One more question — when you screw the mounting plates back into the rear of the boat, do the screws fit tightly again? Are they drilled directly into the fiberglass hull or is there a threaded hole?

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                              #29
                              For sure! A bunch of guys on here have helped me a bunch. It’s the least I can do, when I actually have the answer..

                              They are just screwed into the fiberglass on the transom.. I filled the wire hole, and screw holes with the 4200, then put more on the back of the actuator mount. It’s above the waterline, but my dealer told me to seal everything up good, also common sense.. they’re pretty coarse screws, unless you over tighten and strip them, they’ll be fine.


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                                #30
                                If, by chance, I cannot get Tige to supply me with new actuators, is this the correct one?
                                https://www.amazon.com/Lenco-15057-0...gateway&sr=8-1

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