how to pull the motor

[gumby]

I do have say if you like the price of this motor. buy it. It will work for what you are doing.yes it is a I/O that doesn't matter. you may have to change some accessories. but you will have to do all the same with a long block and more. You could treat it as a long block.
Change or swap oil pan,fly whee, flex plate, starter,valve covers exhaust manifolds, engine water pump all the hoses, (that go with it)raw water pump. fuel filter housing. fuel pump.(we have one unless the dealer added a second)alternator, engine wiring harness,distributor, intake, fuel rails,throttle body,idle pulley, temp sending,oil sending, coil, thermostat housing, I might have missed something but think that is most if it. Are you sure your starer is on the bottom? Mine is on the top in the bell. Yours could be on the bottom. The holes will be there either way. but quite honestly I don't think you will have to do all this you will have to see what is needed. The motor will work for what you are doing. Timing chain cover. (forgot)

Things you might not have to change. oil pan, valve covers,timing cover, water pump(unless you want a new one) yes he has a power steering pump I think he will need it on his boat and you don't need it. If you go with a long block non marine you will still change /swap all of this and tare down your new long block change the head gaskets and swap the cam shaft that will Void the warranty. You will still have to swap the stuff regardless. I would check the hours on the 2005 on a laptop see where it spent most of its 200 hours at. (rpm range) if you feel it is a good buy? get it. you will have things left over to sell intake, injectors, distributor, computer, wiring harness for someone wanting to switch over to fuel injection. 800 bucks easy. all day.

[gumby]

Just so you don't void the warranty. Here is a list of what others suggested
koolaid
https://marineenginedepot.com/20012/...ine-Long-Block
TeamAlien
https://marineenginedepot.com/MP/mar....7L-350ci--V8/
http://www.atkvege.com/content/
http://www.jasperengines.com/marine-products
http://www.usengine.us/marine_engines.html
http://www.michiganmotorz.com/
I would also find out the type of boat the 2005 is coming out of. Is it a similar weight? heaver/lighter?

[laserfish]

OK, forgive my ignorance, but I am learning (I do enjoy learning this stuff) and I want to make wise and informed decisions.
On one hand, I have a used engine that is local, 200+ hours, unknown on care and use for $3500.00. Probably just use as a long block.
On the other hand, I can get a new GM built long block here https://marineenginedepot.com/20012/...ine-Long-Block for $3000.00+ shipping of 188.00.
My question is does this GM block work for me? Is the cam shaft correct? Will everything bolt up from my current Mercury engine? Being new, this seems like a better way to go, am I thinking right?
Thanks to all.

[laserfish]

Just spoke with Marine Engine Depot and they are actually the aftermarket sales of Marine Power. Makes me want to lean that way assuming my exhaust and components will bolt up. Liking the "new" tag as many "used" are already "used up" and are not as advertised. Opinions??

[gumby]

ME. I would do marine engine depot. long block. YES all your stuff will transfer over. You will get a warranty. Just better all around.Just confirm you are getting a roller cam motor.315 hp

[boatwakes]

Ooops, a little late to the reply but read on anyway, it still applies to the marine engine GM block.

Basically, you will have to swap your camshaft into whatever engine you buy to get the same HP and use your current MPI fuel mapping setup. YOU CANNOT USE A FLAT TAPPET CAMSHAFT AND MARINE EFI TOGETHER!!!

The cams are different between the two and not compatible with swapped electronics. The intake on the outdrive engine is 2 piece and uses different injectors. The power steering cooler at the back of the engine has a water pressure sensor which would need to be installed on your transmission cooler, the sea water pump uses a double flat drive impeller instead of the D drive, etc... etc... The big difference is HP as the outdrive motor is only 300 and yours is 315. It doesn't make sense to buy it for a long block when you can get a junkyard block for $200 and do the same thing. So unless you want to just swap this engine in place of yours, making the minor modifications I've listed and opting for less HP I would suggest passing on this one.

[laserfish]

Finally got to work on the boat a little more. Here is a pic of the internal damage (crack). Have not pulled it yet so there may be more, as if this is not enough!
Block Crack.jpg

[boatwakes]

Damn dude!!!!

[laserfish]

Yep, when I do something I don't do it halfway! Going with a new GM base Vortec. Fun part will be getting a picker tall enough to get that giant doorstop out of there. Thanks for all the help from the forum. Will keep you apprised of the progress. IRS has definitely slowed the process!!

[laserfish]

UPDATE: Starting the swap this weekend! Of course I wait until it is blazing hot. New marine GM factory long block arrived from Marine Engine Depot and is on the stand waiting to have all the ancillary equipment bolted on. Hoping to get this done in one weekend. Always the optimist. Will update with pics when I can. Thanks for everyone's help.
Also, since it has the original shaft seal, does anyone know the best replacement and part number for this hull?
Thanks

[gumby]

upgrade!!! might as well.
58255716553__98A9ACCD-D5C2-49D7-9BC3-F4E378712466.jpg

[laserfish]

Thanks, got it on order! Figured it would be waaaay easier to replace while the motor is out!

[laserfish]

Got the new engine in, now have to put all the equipment back on. On the exhaust, is there anything special about the manifold gaskets or can i just run down to the auto parts store? Getting closer!!

[laserfish]

Made a discovery I will pass along to everyone else. It has been bugging me that this cracked block happened as I have always been diligent in winterizing the motor. While taking off everything from the old motor and transferring to the new one, I discovered that the drains on each side of the block were completely clogged. I surmise that I took the plugs out and nothing came out, I put them back not knowing they were plugged up and the water was still in the block. Lesson learned, if no water comes out and it should, check into the reason why. It can be quite an expensive lesson in both time and money.

[laserfish]

New engine is in and started right up (with new gas). However, it is not quite right. Normally, on a car that I have had the distributor out of I would check the timing to get it right after start up. Can I check and adjust the timing in the driveway, or is this a dealer/computer adjustment only. Seems to have a tremendous vacuum through the square port in the throttle body. I am thinking timing. Would like to get it in the water this weekend so any quick help would be greatly appreciated!!!