how to pull the motor

[laserfish]

OK, forgive my ignorance, but I am learning (I do enjoy learning this stuff) and I want to make wise and informed decisions.
On one hand, I have a used engine that is local, 200+ hours, unknown on care and use for $3500.00. Probably just use as a long block.
On the other hand, I can get a new GM built long block here https://marineenginedepot.com/20012/...ine-Long-Block for $3000.00+ shipping of 188.00.
My question is does this GM block work for me? Is the cam shaft correct? Will everything bolt up from my current Mercury engine? Being new, this seems like a better way to go, am I thinking right?
Thanks to all.

[laserfish]

Just spoke with Marine Engine Depot and they are actually the aftermarket sales of Marine Power. Makes me want to lean that way assuming my exhaust and components will bolt up. Liking the "new" tag as many "used" are already "used up" and are not as advertised. Opinions??

[gumby]

ME. I would do marine engine depot. long block. YES all your stuff will transfer over. You will get a warranty. Just better all around.Just confirm you are getting a roller cam motor.315 hp

[boatwakes]

Ooops, a little late to the reply but read on anyway, it still applies to the marine engine GM block.

Basically, you will have to swap your camshaft into whatever engine you buy to get the same HP and use your current MPI fuel mapping setup. YOU CANNOT USE A FLAT TAPPET CAMSHAFT AND MARINE EFI TOGETHER!!!

The cams are different between the two and not compatible with swapped electronics. The intake on the outdrive engine is 2 piece and uses different injectors. The power steering cooler at the back of the engine has a water pressure sensor which would need to be installed on your transmission cooler, the sea water pump uses a double flat drive impeller instead of the D drive, etc... etc... The big difference is HP as the outdrive motor is only 300 and yours is 315. It doesn't make sense to buy it for a long block when you can get a junkyard block for $200 and do the same thing. So unless you want to just swap this engine in place of yours, making the minor modifications I've listed and opting for less HP I would suggest passing on this one.

[laserfish]

Finally got to work on the boat a little more. Here is a pic of the internal damage (crack). Have not pulled it yet so there may be more, as if this is not enough!
Block Crack.jpg

[boatwakes]

Damn dude!!!!

[laserfish]

Yep, when I do something I don't do it halfway! Going with a new GM base Vortec. Fun part will be getting a picker tall enough to get that giant doorstop out of there. Thanks for all the help from the forum. Will keep you apprised of the progress. IRS has definitely slowed the process!!

[laserfish]

UPDATE: Starting the swap this weekend! Of course I wait until it is blazing hot. New marine GM factory long block arrived from Marine Engine Depot and is on the stand waiting to have all the ancillary equipment bolted on. Hoping to get this done in one weekend. Always the optimist. Will update with pics when I can. Thanks for everyone's help.
Also, since it has the original shaft seal, does anyone know the best replacement and part number for this hull?
Thanks

[gumby]

upgrade!!! might as well.
58255716553__98A9ACCD-D5C2-49D7-9BC3-F4E378712466.jpg

[laserfish]

Thanks, got it on order! Figured it would be waaaay easier to replace while the motor is out!

[laserfish]

Got the new engine in, now have to put all the equipment back on. On the exhaust, is there anything special about the manifold gaskets or can i just run down to the auto parts store? Getting closer!!

[laserfish]

Made a discovery I will pass along to everyone else. It has been bugging me that this cracked block happened as I have always been diligent in winterizing the motor. While taking off everything from the old motor and transferring to the new one, I discovered that the drains on each side of the block were completely clogged. I surmise that I took the plugs out and nothing came out, I put them back not knowing they were plugged up and the water was still in the block. Lesson learned, if no water comes out and it should, check into the reason why. It can be quite an expensive lesson in both time and money.

[laserfish]

New engine is in and started right up (with new gas). However, it is not quite right. Normally, on a car that I have had the distributor out of I would check the timing to get it right after start up. Can I check and adjust the timing in the driveway, or is this a dealer/computer adjustment only. Seems to have a tremendous vacuum through the square port in the throttle body. I am thinking timing. Would like to get it in the water this weekend so any quick help would be greatly appreciated!!!