Speedset will not adjust

[IDBoating]

Sorry about my PM mailbox filling up, it's open again {grin}. I will send you a PM with my shipping address in the next few minutes. Thanks!

[jmhatchett]

WA, I tried to PM you yesterday to get a mailing address and get mine sent up to you. I NO MATTER WHAT have a replacement lined up (catch is that If i walk into the factory it costs $1250) If you still are intereested in looking at mine WA or need one to see how to set up this fix I will still get it Fedex today. Call me if you can please 806-241-2371. John Mark Hatchett

[IDBoating]

Thanks for doing the research! Nobody would send me one to examine. Sorry yours failed, but at least it forced some good R&D!

[ChrisSnow]

So it's getting late here in the UK but here is the findings over the last few days of fiddling..

The good news for people is that it can be replaced with common parts :-)

the reason mine has failed is that the flexible circuit board had severed one of it's tracks and a few others were rubbing and causing shorts, unfortunately in my opinion this is a design flaw due to how it is assembled.

The only special part of the panel is there is an MCU, at this point I believe it's sole purpose is to take the momentary on off switch and turn it into a latching signal for the ECU, this can however be replaced with a simple latching switch.

I will draw up a diagram and suggested parts list once I have built and tested one myself.

I will post some updates as and when I make progress, but certainly over the next week or so I should have something.

[IDBoating]

You could replace it with a toggle switch. Two momentary switches and an led.

I believe that's possible, but want to know more about the IC's in that potted module. The schematic doesn't have part numbers, just stock numbers. One of them appears to be voltage regulator, but the other one appears to be a shift register. I *suspect* the contact closures are sufficient, since they are brought out on the connectors, but then why include a shift register? Medallion has a proprietary serial comm scheme they use between devices in their system; if this is meant to integrate with that then simple switch closures may not be enough.

Early MEFI ECU's had a rudimentary cruise control system that relied on simple contact closures. Tige may have had this module designed so it could work in either environment - contact closures for direct ECU control, or serialized comm for use with Medallion electronics. Thus if the electronics have failed, it may be that the pad won't work in a Medallion system. I simply can't know until I get my hands on one and run some tests. The detail that bothers me is if contact closures are all that's required, why bother with the complexity and expense of the IC's?

[ChrisSnow]

Having also seen the schematic for the tac module and the speed set its basicaly an enable signal. Increment and decrement signals and a status indicator. All basic digital stuff.

I'm going to replace mine with something custom along with the option of a GPS based speed input. All diy :-)

You could replace it with a toggle switch. Two momentary switches and an led.

You may have guessed I'm a electronics engineer by day...

[IDBoating]

No problem, no rush, just wanted any new folks to know the offer is out there.

[Timmy!]

Hey WA, sorry, I have been so busy that my boat is STILL shrinkwrapped! I will send you mine to look at as soon as I get it out.

[IDBoating]

I'll repeat my public offer to examine one of these failed units and then return it (I'll even cover return postage), and I'll post my findings here for everyone's benefit. Now that I've seen a schematic I strongly suspect it will be possible to come up with a DIY repair for these units, but I can't be certain until I can physically see and run some tests on one that's failed.

PM me if you have one you're willing to do without for a week or so.

[jmhatchett]

Hey everyone, WA and I have been working on my setup and It still continues to give me problems. I cant get the Up and Down buttons to function, but the Select button works flawlessly. Im just checking to see if anyone has any updates on the speedset pads!

[IDBoating]

Repeated pressing might be having the effect of "wiping" the contacts (though snap domes are not, strictly speaking, self-wiping nor self-cleaning) which might give you some temporary improvement. But it's a long-term losing game... the more you use it, the more it deteriorates. One day it won't work at all anymore.

Snap domes are cheap, cheap, cheap. It should be possible to clean the PCB contacts and replace the domes and get these touchpads working again as long as the underlying electronics are still OK. And no promises, but I may have a possible DIY replacement option, too, if I can ever get Travis from this thread to call me back.... {hint!}

[jmitchell]

Thanks for the quick response WABoating! I know that when the problem first started it seemed like pressing near the top of the up button would get it working quicker. I think we are still generally pushing at the top of it 30-40 times for the warm up until it starts working again. Yes, typically we just pressed in the middle of the button until the problem started. We'll have to tear it apart and start testing.

[IDBoating]

Here's how ours is acting...For the first boat run of any given day, I flip the cruise switch on the dash and prepare to set the speed with the medallion but the "up" button does not function. However, after pressing the "up" button about 30-40 times it will start to work. Almost like having to "warm it up".

You have either 1) dirty contacts under the snap domes, or 2) one of the domes has become semi-permanently inverted, shorting out that side.

Idea: Look back in this thread at the pattern of snap domes under either side's rubber cover. There's more than one snap dome, but they're wired in parallel so it doesn't matter which one you depress. Chances are you generally depress the same one. Try carefully pressing a DIFFERENT one and see if that works better. If it does, it confirms that you have dirty contacts under the dome you normally use. If it doesn't, then you probably have an inverted dome.

Either way, the fix is to carefully separate the layers and 1) clean the domes and the contact surfaces, or 2) replace/remove the errant dome.

[jmitchell]

I've been following this thread for some time looking for a solid fix before I dig into the medallion and start messing with it but summer is near and I'm ready to work on it.

Here's how ours is acting...For the first boat run of any given day, I flip the cruise switch on the dash and prepare to set the speed with the medallion but the "up" button does not function. However, after pressing the "up" button about 30-40 times it will start to work. Almost like having to "warm it up". The up and down will then work for most of the rest of the day unless the boat sits idle for some time and then hitting it a bunch of times will get it to work again. Seems like the issue has gotten worse over the last 2 summers but we've just been dealing with it.

FYI - Its a 2010 Z1 with ~120hrs

Any thoughts on a fix? Thanks for the help.

[IDBoating]

Travis, check your PM's please.