08 Z1 - Ballast Install - DieselPWR

[dogbert]

I'm not warm and fuzzy about the Flex PVC because PVC is sized by the OD and the ID is a result of construction, not design. I got a sample and found it hard to clamp down on hose/plumbing type fittings sized for the ID of hose/tubing. Felt it was a potential leak. The challenge with using the reversible pumps is that they draw a vacuum when draining. Because of this, you need a reinforced hose that will resist collapsing. The Flex-PVC is actually perfect for this, but I feel the wire-reinforced multi-flex will give the same resistance, but with better turn radius and easier clamping. Just my opinion.

I'll second chpthril's recommendation on the wire-reinforced multi-flex. It was easy to work with and I've not had any issues with the hose collapsing on vacuum. I will say that my set up does a great job of draining and with the intake mounted through the transom, I don't have the vacuum/pressure issues others have had with mushroom thru-hulls/scoops mounted through the hull. There's always a little leakage, but it's really not that noticeable and I can easily compensate by running my pumps for a few seconds when we pick up a rider.

Automatic Ballast Install on 21v

Post some pics!

[DieselPWR]

I'll second chpthril's recommendation on the wire-reinforced multi-flex. It was easy to work with and I've not had any issues with the hose collapsing on vacuum. I will say that my set up does a great job of draining and with the intake mounted through the transom, I don't have the vacuum/pressure issues others have had with mushroom thru-hulls/scoops mounted through the hull. There's always a little leakage, but it's really not that noticeable and I can easily compensate by running my pumps for a few seconds when we pick up a rider.

Automatic Ballast Install on 21v

Post some pics!

Looks like a great write up. Am I the only one that can not see your pics in the thread? They come up broken like Eks.

Whats the advantage and disadvantage of using the 3 transom holes vs the 1 in bottom of the hull?

[DieselPWR]

Didn't get too much done this weekend. Thanks to Micah for letting me check out his system before I started. Huge help, got a lot of good ideas.

Did almost all the wiring, mounted the switches, removed the rear seat, laid out all the bags, and spent time planning out how the system will be laid out.

Only wiring left is running one more gorund wire to the bar, and the wiring on the pump ends after they are mounted. I dropped the screw to connect the last ground wire and spent a half hour hunting for it with no success. Funny how stuff like that works. So if anyone happens to know the size of the screw, please let me know. They are such a pain to remove and put back on so I am trying to not have to remove it to size it, but I know I'll have to.

I'll post some pics of the rear seat removal later, having trouble with my camera.

Here are some of the dash with switches and some of underneath and the wiring. I removed two ACC switches and the Docking lights. They are up underneath the dash and out of the way in case I need them in the future.
Anyone know if the heater needs a toggle switch on the dash, or does it have its own control set up?

Left single switch is for the bow pump, and the two switches on the right for the rear pumps.

[DieselPWR]

Pic of the breaker box, drilled a hole on the side to run the three power wires out. They have 20 amp in line fuses in between the box and the toggle switches. The other pic is of the ground bar, way up in the upper right corner, and a PAIN IN THE A$$ to get to.

[joakin]

I need to buy this switch, but I can not find in Spain, where I can buy this switch Ballast for my system? on a website?
where?




thanks

[dogbert]

Nice job so far!

[DieselPWR]

I need to buy this switch, but I can not find in Spain, where I can buy this switch Ballast for my system? on a website?
where?




thanks

The switch came with the ballast puppy.

From another thread, but I believe the switches are made by Carling Technologies, 1-860-793-9281. They may have something online.
Or try searching for Jabsco ballast switches.

[DieselPWR]

REAR SEAT REMOVAL

Here is how to remove the rear seat on a Z1. There are 4 nut/bolts holding the seat in place. The rear seat already has an access panel so you can reach them from inside the rear seat and also easily reachable from the rear storage comparments. I was able to hand loosen them.

[DieselPWR]

Holes for thru hulls. Used 3 plastic thru hulls, and 1 brass reverse scoop strainer for the intake. Used 1-3/8" hole saw for the 3 vent holes, and 1-5/8" for the intake hole. Most hole saw kits do not include a 1-5/8", most likely sold seperately. The intake hole is 27" in front of the speedo. As for the starboard vent hull, I ideally would have placed it next to the bilge hole, but there is not access to it from the rear storage compartment.

[DieselPWR]

Thru Hulls

[DieselPWR]

Drilling the hole in the base of the boat was probably the worst 15 seconds of my life. As the suspense was built up and I started to drill the pilot bit portion of the hole saw the battery on my drill died. So I had to wait and recharge the battery. I enjoyed weaving through the supports of the trailer to get where I needed to drill the hole multiple times. Tight squeeze. I predrilled the thru hull with a tiny bit to verfiy where I wanted my manifold and ended up moving the final hole over an inch while still covering the pilot hole.

I took a photo of the thickness of the hull from the base, on right, and the vent holes, on the left.

[DieselPWR]

Used the same parts Coach used for the Manifold itself. I chose to go with the shields 1" multiflex for all of the hose. Still waiting on my second roll to be delivered to start the vent lines. This stuff is very flexible yet feels sturdy.

Thanks to Micah for letting me stop by and check out his setup, got a lot of good ideas. The rear pumps are mounted so water sits on the pump for priming. The rear sacs are setup to fill from the top. I am going to see how that works, but I can easily change it to fill from the bottom.

[DieselPWR]

BOW: Bow pump is mounted on the starboard side on the wall that splits the bow storage from the storage compartment under the dash.

Hose runs from the manifold to the starboard storage underneath the dash. I drilled two 1" holes so that I could keep the intake for the air flow installed. Not sure if I need it, but I kept it anyway. This line runs to the pump, and is also routed so that water stays on the impellar for priming. From the pump it T's off. One line goes up and over into the bow storage area to fill the base of the bow sac from the starboard side. The other goes under the walkway that splits the starboard and port storage areas, then goes up an over into the bow storage to fill base of the bow sac from the port side.

[DieselPWR]

more bow pics. Two of how it fills from the base, the third is the hose on the port side.

[DieselPWR]

All I have left is to wait for the next roll of multiflex to come in and do the vent lines. I have a question on fitting the multiflex over the barbed end of the plastic thru hulls. To get the multiflex to fit over any other barbed ends I used a heat gun to make the end more flexible. The barbed end of the thru hull seems a little larger and I am having trouble getting the hose to fit around the barbed end, even with the heat gun. This is more of a problem with the bow thru hull as my storage comparment is very cramped and a PITA to work in, can't just muscle the hose on the end of the thru hull. I am trying to 90 off the thru hull to run the checkvalve and hose to the bow sac.

Any suggestions what I could use to mate the two 1" barbed connections, that is easier to work with then multiflex???