Simple questions, With a simple answer (i hope)

[Thegerman618]

Hehehe^^^^ that's awesome.

[Thegerman618]

OK, I am done with the relocation. How are we looking now? Looks a little funny not being straight but no rubbing, and out lines are up so should solve the air problems


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[IDBoating]

Based on hull angles it looks to me like the forward-most pump has its inlet higher than its outlet. However, hopefully the air can flow up through the aft-most pump body and get out of the system that way. It's definitely better than before!

My biggest concern now is what does the aft-most pump's output hose do. It looks like the 90 on the pump is pointed below horizontal. If you had *enough* air in the system, a bubble trapped there could be big enough to be partially within the pump body. It depends upon how far down the output hose descends before it trends upward again. Best case would be to have that output hose (since it's the air release for BOTH pumps) go up, up, up for as long as possible, so that the volume contained within the continuously "up" portion beyond the pump outlet is way more than the volume from the pump outlet back to the thruhull. That way you're guaranteed that the largest possible air bubble is still smaller enough to pass entirely through the aft pump body and the pump will self-prime.

Sorry to be a worrywart, but I want this to work reliably for you!

[dukesofhazzard]

you could also turn that front pump 90 deg so that the outlet is lower and then you could raise the pump head even a little more, I did exactly what all these guys are talking about when I did mine and have zero priming issues. looked again and looks like you could do that with back pump too.

[Thegerman618]

Yes the back pump is angled "slightly" down but it was the best I could do under the circumstances. I tried a few other configurations and this was the best option, I tried and tried and tried to get the pumps directly into the T but no dice. The aft pump hose goes down about 4" to the check valve then straight for about 2 feet and then up the stern and back forward to the bow.

i may just have to put it in the water with cover off and see how it works. thanks for all the help, if you think of anything else let me know

[Stingreye]

Since you launch on a ramp most of the time, bow will be high as you back in. I bet the air will purge out the front ok. The transom side pump might be ok if the boat rocks enough to let the air out. You might be ok. Mine aren't perfect and still don't air lock. Hopefully you will have the same luck.


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[chpthril]

Much better looking.

With a T setup, air will travel from the lower pump to the higher pump, so its ok to have one of the 2 lower.

1) can you route the forward pump's hose over top the v-drive cradle? would like to eliminate that drain trap effect just for the sake of it.

2) its hard to tell from the picks, but it looks like the black 90 elbow might me slightly higher than the pump body. if so, some air will collect that and partially air lock the pump. Basically reducing the water volume to the pump as the water has to go between the air bubble and lower edge of the elbow.

3) if #2 is ok, then is there room to put a straight fitting on the outlet of that aft pump? This gets that hose continuing its upward travel all in the name of air purging.

Again, looks much better just sometimes a picture makes it appear something its not.

[Thegerman618]

Sorry for the delay on the update to the progress gents. 40 gusting to 65mph winds here the last few days. Spent the weekend building my wiring harness and putting wire shields on everything.

Chpthril-I tried to come over the v-drive cradle but it put a lot of stress on the pump and elbow that it was starting flex a bit. Looking at the pictures it really doesn't take into account the angle of the entire setup the highest point of everything is the outlet on the aft most pump. Which is what I was aiming for correct to move all the air up?

IDBoating- I corrected the hose angles to be angled above the pumps and is now a good 6" above the pump. Is that enough?

Stringreye-Got your PM reply coming shortly.

Wiring Question- I finished the harness- Here is what I did someone correct me here if this is "safe" I don't have the terminology so bare with me. I stole power from an unused Acces. switch on the dash from there I ran to a master push fuse I mounted on the dash. From there I daisy chained power to the switches and indicator light. I have a ground distribution block under the dash, that had a free slot open and I connected to that daisy chained the ground to each Switch. I took the power from all 4 pumps (each has in-line fuses installed at the pump), and ran them in the wire conduit in the gunnel to the switches. I took the 3 Ground wires on the starboard side and connected them to the negative terminal on the starboard battery, and took the port pump ground to the port negative battery terminal. Everything works as it should and seems to be wired correctly, and is a very clean install and every single inch of wire is covered in shielding/labeled on both ends switch and pump both ground and positive. Here is my concern, I had (what I though) was perfect mounting spot on the dash to the left and slightly above the speedset. Here in lies my problem, there is a fiberglass/wood re-enforcement back there that is getting the way of 1 of my switches. I have not drilled anything yet for this reason, is it safe to cut away the 1/2" that I need to fit the switch? I have a dremil that H20Sk8er00 loaned me, but I don't want to cut something that will weaken the dash. I can take photos of what I mean if need be. There is already a crudely drilled hole there from the factor to allow for the speedset to mount I just need to extend it a pinch more.

Thanks again guys-Chpthril you may have to examine this project when we get the reunion LOL.

[chpthril]

there is a fiberglass/wood re-enforcement back there that is getting the way of 1 of my switches. I have not drilled anything yet for this reason, is it safe to cut away the 1/2" that I need to fit the switch?

Trim away!

I ran to a master push fuse I mounted on the dash. From there I daisy chained power to the switches and indicator light.

I took the power from all 4 pumps (each has in-line fuses installed at the pump), and ran them in the wire conduit in the gunnel to the switches

Here is my concern with having those fuses at the load as opposed to at the B+ source, the switch. IF there is a short to ground, highly unlikely though, between the pump (where the fuse is) and switch, then the master breaker becomes the only protection for that circuit. This means two things 1) the trips the breaker and now none of the ballast pumps will run and 2) we rely on the pump's cabling to be able to carry a current that exceeds that master breaker.

You are OK on the later. The 14ga to the pumps will exceed that 15A breaker. However, if it trips, all the switches are without B+ so no pumps will run, fill or drain.

More later......

[Thegerman618]

okay, I will get to cutting then. Thanks Chpthril, looking to install almost in the same spot just to the left of the speedset (that I hope to have replaced soon IDboating)

[killerbren]

All good information guys, I've been watching this thread closely and will be doing the same thing on my 22ve in about a month, right down to the location of the switches.

[Thegerman618]

Glad this will help Killerbren, feel free to ask questions if need to. My install will be finished this weekend then next weekend it's to the lake to test. Though the brisk water may keep me from surfing or boarding.

[NICKYPOO]

Though the brisk water may keep me from surfing or boarding.

Water is only cold while you're in it.

[Thegerman618]

Agreed, but I spend a lot of time in it since I have yet to master the 360.


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[Thegerman618]

Switches are in, 2nd Enzo arrived today, finalized the wiring and everything works. Lake Test Pending thank you all for the help. Will report with one last set of photos when I get on the water in 2 weeksimage.jpg