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2001 23V rebuild from the ground up

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    2001 23V rebuild from the ground up

    Time to consolidate all my junk into one post!
    I know this isn't a "builders" forum and this will likely fall on deaf ears, but maybe some of you would like to follow along and see a 16 year old boat become a new one.

    Backstory:
    I planned a bachelor party for my cousin/best friend 6 months or so ago, we went up to NC and rented a cabin and a Nautique G23 for a weekend a wakeboarded/surfed all weekend.
    That was the first time I had surfed after wakeboarding for years. I stopped wakeboarding because for me it's not worth being knocked out, busted knees, etc. I stopped wanting a boat when I stopped riding because lakes bore me if I don't have anything to "do". After surfing that weekend I was hooked. The wife can enjoy lounging at the lake and when I get bored we can go surfing. Perfect!

    While I love new boats of all brands, I'm just not going to drop that kind of money on a toy, to each their own and obviously most of you have done it, but I just don't see it as something that's worth 100K. It's not that I can't buy one, it's just not a worthwhile expenditure for me. So that got me looking at older boats that I could rework and be happy with. After a bunch of research about mastercrafts, nautiques, malibus etc Tige kept coming up as a great surf boat. After seeing Surfdad's wakes on the 23V I went looking for one.

    I found it in Knoxville and took it home. I got a good deal on it. (at the time anyway, less so now that I know more about it)

    The plan is to turn this 16yr old boat into something that no one would know it 16 yrs old. It should look and perform like a 2017 boat, that's the goal anyway!

    So here it is when I got it:Resized952017082995135303.jpg
    The PO had put in some PVC Decking (house decking) which was a nightmare to remove. 100+ screws countersunk into the decking had to be drilled out to be removed.

    Once that was out I pulled all the upholstery and started work. All the previous fiberglass ont he deck was removed. It was 75% delaminated from the wood below, cracked and checked in a lot of places. It came right off with a paint scraper. Poorly done to say the least.
    IMG_20170930_154710-1619x1214.jpg

    Now all the glass is gone and the waterlogged wood is drying. The plan is to put a layer of glass down, then a 3/8" thick layer of Coosa Bluewater 20 fiberglass board, then another layer of glass. The floor will then get gelcoat or paint and then seadek/gatorstep/EPS flooring.

    IMG_20171001_174402-1214x1619.jpg

    The engine is not original to the boat, and generally looks shitty. It needs a cleanup, paint, oil change, and inspection. So I pulled it out.
    IMG_20170921_174401-1619x1214.jpg

    After I got it on a pallet i checked compression at 180 across the board, so everything appears to be in good shape. I'll pull it apart a bit to rewire, inspect the valves and heads, look at the cam etc later this winter. All the brackets and stuff will be powdercoated at some point this winter.
    IMG_20170921_180746-1619x1214.jpg

    The prop strut was very bent, so while the engine is out it's getting replaced as well, makes it much easier than reaching under the oil pan to get it out of there!
    IMG_20170917_145507-1214x1619.jpg

    Basically that's where we sit for the moment.
    Next up is to finish the floor. Then I'm going to extend the passenger side seating all the way up to the bulkhead like the modern boats and build a cooler under that seat.

    #2
    Thats awesome seeing the steps your taking from start to finish. Please continue to update this thread with more pictures and progress. Congratulations on the new boat !
    If you wanna know what I did , come with me next time...

    Comment


      #3
      I gotta ask...how "great" was the original deal when you are doing all of this (especially that floor) and still consider it an "ok" deal

      Comment


        #4
        Not that great lol.
        I like work

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          #5
          Keep the pics coming. Its way better then a payment! My buddy just did a 2002 Centurion. Good way to go. In the end you will know everything about your boat and it will all be to your design.

          Comment


            #6
            Cool post and project for sure! You might want to add a Fresh Air Exhaust to your list of things to do. I mean you don't have anything else to do.
            It will be a great addition to your new surf boat. There is a group buy going on right now.
            http://www.tigeowners.com/forum/show...17-%96-10-8-17
            Mike Allen, Tigé owner since 1997

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              #7
              Might want to hold off on the cooler idea, you are probably going to eat up space with soft tanks and ballast plumbing. Great project and looking forward to the progress.
              Paul Middlemore

              Comment


                #8
                Thanks Guys,
                FAE is on the list as well, but I'll build one. 500 is pretty steep for 3 feet of stainless tubing and a couple elbows.

                Paul, the cooler will be under a new seat that i'm going to fabricate so the ballast won't be going up that far, primary storage will be in the two bulkheads and I'm going to build some basket type things to hang over the ballast int eh rear for more storage.


                Yesterday's project was getting the floor layout.
                I used a Tick-Stick to do it, if you've never used or seen one it's a pretty cool process.
                Basically you sharpen one end of a stick and touch it to the walls every inch or so in varying locations and mark the edge and back of the stick with a pen. Then you remove your template and work backward to mark out the layout on plywood.
                IMG_20171002_165353-1619x1214.jpg

                IMG_20171002_170202-1619x1214.jpg

                IMG_20171002_170205-1619x1214.jpg

                IMG_20171002_174345-1619x1214 (1).jpg
                After that you play connect the dots, cut it out and it should fit like a glove. A tiny bit of extra trimming in some corners and we're good to go.
                This template will now be digitized to make a cad file for the floor layout. That way I can cut my coosa board on the CNC router and I can layout my seadek design and cut it on the router as well.


                In case anyone is wondering, NO the two sides are not symmetrical. They are supposed to be, but I suppose with a hand tooled mold they just arent. They should be.
                IMG_20171002_175234-1619x1214.jpg
                Had to repeat the process all over again for the other side.

                Comment


                  #9
                  All these years and all of the methods I have used (Popsicle sticks, batons, bondo squeeze for examples) I have never seen the tick stick-method. I have to say, I am very impressed and quite let down at myself for never seeing this before.
                  Oh Yeah!

                  Comment


                    #10
                    This is the first time I've used it at this scale, I've used it for fitting small things into tight spaces a lot.
                    It worked out better than I expected. Total time under 30 minutes per side.

                    I'm thinking of laying the Coosa down with some epoxy adhesive, then filling all the small voids in the sides with epoxy, then glass over the whole thing and blend the corners in.
                    Anyone see any problems with that plan?

                    The Coosa is really just a time saver, as I do not want to have to sand the whole floor down to perfectly smooth to glass over. If I lay 3/8 Coosa over everything with a good layer of thickened epoxy between it and the floor it should make a level smooth surface in one fell swoop instead of countless sanding hours.

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Awesome posts. I love seeing the transformation. Also jealous of the shop and all the fabrication abilities you have. Keep the pics coming!

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Coosa would work well. The floor setup after 2003 was coosa/penske. Be sure you have the plywood as dry as possible. That decking material kept in moisture which caused the fiberglass to delaminate from the treated plywood. You may want to coat the mating side of the coosa first, dry, sand and then epoxy to the floor. I kind of wonder if a putty would be the better choice instead of epoxy.
                        Oh Yeah!

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Originally posted by KoolAid View Post
                          Coosa would work well. The floor setup after 2003 was coosa/penske. Be sure you have the plywood as dry as possible. That decking material kept in moisture which caused the fiberglass to delaminate from the treated plywood. You may want to coat the mating side of the coosa first, dry, sand and then epoxy to the floor. I kind of wonder if a putty would be the better choice instead of epoxy.
                          Thanks J,
                          I suspect the decking was a patch to "repair" the floor. The guy said it was fairly recent. With the way this boat was treated it's anyone's guess lol

                          I had considered a putty like plexus or similar. Do you have a recommendation on a good one to use? It would be easier than mixing mass amounts of epoxy with thickener.

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Originally posted by SONIC View Post
                            Thanks Guys,
                            FAE is on the list as well, but I'll build one. 500 is pretty steep for 3 feet of stainless tubing and a couple elbows.
                            Only $430 for your boat, with the discount . Anyway, carry on.
                            Mike Allen, Tigé owner since 1997

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Originally posted by TeamAllen View Post
                              Only $430 for your boat, with the discount . Anyway, carry on.
                              Yep I looked.
                              Not to take away from the product because it looks great and is a fantastic idea, but with my tools and time on my hands it's just a waste of money. I've got the tubing sitting around the shop from other exhaust projects and a couple minutes of tig welding and we'll be good to go!

                              Comment

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