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    #91
    Originally posted by Carter13 View Post
    For those that are interested I emailed a guy by the name of Jim at ProMariner and he prefers mounting them on aluminum stand offs. He said you can also stack washers so the charger is about 1/2 inch off the carpet. Getting the 1/2 inch space helps to cool the unit.
    Not a bad idea to put a few washers under there.

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      #92
      Here is the pic.
      Attached Files

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        #93
        I have a 1/2 off switch built in to my 2002 20V. I want to add a 2nd battery, do I still need the perko switch? Or does my current switch wired correctly do the same job?

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          #94
          "Perko" is a manufacture, so im assuming you are referring their 1/2/BOTH switch? If so, it likely functions the same as what ever brand switch you have. So no new switch needed. Just wire the two house bank batteries in parallel with the original cables as they are.
          Mikes Liquid Audio: Knowledge Experience Customer Service you can trust-KICKER WetSounds ACME props FlyHigh Custom Ballast Clarion LiquidLumens LEDs Roswell Wave Deflector And More

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            #95
            Originally posted by chpthril View Post
            "Perko" is a manufacture, so im assuming you are referring their 1/2/BOTH switch? If so, it likely functions the same as what ever brand switch you have. So no new switch needed. Just wire the two house bank batteries in parallel with the original cables as they are.
            Thanks!

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              #96
              Couple questions for this thread. I finally got a chance to tear into my "new to me" Tige 08 Z1. I will be starting a project thread in the future but I have a couple questions probably for Mike on this battery situation. I want to replicate exactly what you did here but I have a couple additional qquestions. I have the factory "on" and "off" switch that goes to a interstate size 24 cracking battery. That goes to an isolator and I have a blue top optima that has my stereo stuff connected to it. that goes to the isolator. I want to hook up a second deep cell battery (I will be buying two new deep cell to replace the one optima blue top), i think i will need a new switch and I want to add an onbard charger. When I wire these together neg to neg and pos to pos like in the picture can I leave all the stereo equipment hooked up to just the one battery? will it still get power from the other deep cell if necessary? I would love to get these questions answered.

              1. Can I just leave the stereo equipment hooked up to one of the deep cell batteries? or do i need to spread it out between the two?

              2. When wiring the second deep cell in I assume I can leave everything the same and just add another deep cell with the neg to neg and the pos to pos?

              3. When adding the switch, Will I need to be on 1 to start the boat and then switch it to 2 so I am working off my deep cells while boarding and listening to music?

              4. What is the best charger to get? I thought I would need 3 bank charger but after doing some reading it seems like I can have 2 bank since the deep cells will be wired together?

              5. Please provide any other information you feel I could use.

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                #97
                Tighten yur seat belts ladies and gents

                1 & 2 are very close to the same answer of yes. Once the 2 batteries are wired together in parallel, they become one battery so it really does not matter which one's posts you use. However, I would spread the cables between the two batteries to avoid too many pugs on one stud. 3 is pushing the limits.

                3) if you are changing from a ON/OFF to a 1/2/BOTH/OFF switch, this would require a completely new wiring scheme for the batteries and switch. Id also ditch the diode isolator. Id also reconsider the 1/2/BOTH switch and go with the Dual Circuit Plus switch and ACR. This setup would give you back some of the passive functions you have now, but will work much better then the current switch and isolator.

                4) A 2 bank charger will work, but a 3 bank will likely give you more output to the house bank then a 2 bank charger. On most chargers, you can "stack" 2 bank leads to one battery bank in order to get the output of both charger banks.
                Mikes Liquid Audio: Knowledge Experience Customer Service you can trust-KICKER WetSounds ACME props FlyHigh Custom Ballast Clarion LiquidLumens LEDs Roswell Wave Deflector And More

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                  #98
                  Mike,

                  Thanks for the reply.

                  3. I am a little confused with your answer. SO I cannot use the factory Isolator like you have? So my two deep cells would go to one post? I want to wire it just the same as you have in the first post? Can you explain the completely new wiring scheme?

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                    #99
                    I am sorry for the silly questions I figured drawing a picture might help. Here is a picture of my current setup and the proposed new setup. I am trying to get more stereo time on the water.

                    https://www.dropbox.com/s/nimugcp7tq...%20AM.jpg?dl=0

                    https://www.dropbox.com/s/qrx0oqfavb...%20AM.jpg?dl=0

                    Please let me know if my proposed system will work.

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                        Ok. If you look, you see this is a 10.5 year old thread, so my thinking has evolved in the 10 years of doing audio and battery systems professionally.

                        One inherent flaw of that tige setup is having most loads wired directly to the battery(s), with no main disconnect like the 1/2/BOTH or DCP switch. This allows for a constant parasitic draw on those batteries. This is why I would suggest rewiring the system if you change to the 1/2/BOTH style switch. It would function very much as it does now, but all the loads would be moved to the switch. In this scenario, OFF means off. Right now, off means jack......With potential loads still wired to battery, over long periods of storage, your charger is going to be working to supply those parasitic draws. It will not go into float mode or stay in float mode long.

                        If I was going to go through that amount of work, Id go with the DCP switch and an auto combining relay and then eliminate that diode. One drawback of the diode isolator, is its voltage drop across the terminals. As much as .7V loss from what comes in to what what reaches the batteries. Adding that 2nd deep cycle to the house side, doubles its Ah capacity. You will want as much voltage into that bank as the alternator will deliver.
                        Mikes Liquid Audio: Knowledge Experience Customer Service you can trust-KICKER WetSounds ACME props FlyHigh Custom Ballast Clarion LiquidLumens LEDs Roswell Wave Deflector And More

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                          Mike,

                          Sorry I don't mean to irritate you. I get it is a 10 year old thread I just thought I would post my questions to it incase they help someone else. I know I am asking a lot now but would you be able to provide a diagram of the proper setup to run two deep cells and a crank battery? I am not sure I am fully understanding all the terminology and it might be easier if I could see a picture similar to what I drew up.

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                            Not so much that its a 10 year old thread, but 10 year thinking. Having done this type of work day in and day since, ive changed how I feel about that setup.

                            You can follow exactly what I did originally. It works, just not what I would suggest given my experiences since.

                            The wiring diagram would depend which switch/system you went with. The 1/2/BOTH and Dual Circuit Plus switch are vastly different. Not irritating me at all. I know ive tossed a wrench in your spokes and put out quite a but of info to chew on.
                            Mikes Liquid Audio: Knowledge Experience Customer Service you can trust-KICKER WetSounds ACME props FlyHigh Custom Ballast Clarion LiquidLumens LEDs Roswell Wave Deflector And More

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                              Mike, does this work? After spending all Sunday and ready numerous threads this is what I have come with..





                              That is the switch and ACR. Please let me know how my diagram looks!

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                                I know I am getting close.. After some more reading I am not 100% sure this is correct but I could use some more critique!

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