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How to Replace Pedal Position Sensor (throttle position sensor) and calibrate it

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    How to Replace Pedal Position Sensor (throttle position sensor) and calibrate it

    There seems to be a smattering of info all over this forum so I thought I put together a how to, to combine it all. I did this on my Marine Power 5.7L Vortec installed into my 2007 Tige 22Ve

    Background:

    I was having trouble with my throttle responding (the engine would start and transmission would go in gear but no engine response but Idle rev) No audible warning either. If I turned the boat off and on again it would some time work but not all the time. Lots of people have talked about replacing the throttle position sensor or the actual part is called the Pedal Position Sensor (PPS) or throttle potentiometer because we use car engines that are adapted to Marine use. So I decided to do that.

    Obtain the replacement Part: (check that your part number is the BEI 9861 pot before ordering the one in the link)
    1) http://www.mouser.com/search/Product...d9861R5KL2%2e0

    Disassembly:

    1) Disconnect safety switch under cockpit (two spade connectors)
    2) Cut zip tie on the heater duct and slide off duct
    3) Pop off screw covers on the throttle side panel (they pop off with a flat head screw driver if slightly and gently pried)IMG_2785.jpg
    4) Remove the 6 or 7 panel screws
    5) Pull Side panel out and up to get it over the throttle bezel and throttle lever. (the throttle lever isn't attached to the panel)
    IMG_2784.jpg
    6) Remove the 4 screws that hold on the throttle lever assembly and attached it to the side fiberglass wall.
    IMG_2783.jpg
    7) pull the throttle lever assembly out of the fiberglass cut out so it can be worked on.
    IMG_2779.jpg
    8) Remove the Pedal position sensor wiring connector
    9) Remove the 1/8" hex bolt on the throttle position sensor lever arm. Retain the washer and bolt/screw
    10)Loosen and remove the 11/32 nuts from the Throttle/Pedal position sensor and slide it off the screw studs
    IMG_2782.jpg
    11) use a flat screw driver and place it between the plastic housing and the PPS and twist screw driver to pry the lever and housing guard off the PPS.
    12) Use a screw driver or pick to pick the rubber connector environmental barrier out of the PPS connector (so you can use a multi-meter to calibrate the new one)
    IMG_2781.jpg

    Assembly:

    1) Install the lever arm into the new throttle position sensor (there is a key'd receptacle so align it)
    2) Loosely install the new PPS with and tighten the nuts to a little bit of friction to help you calibrate it later but you don't want it so tight that you can't rotate the entire PPS unit independently of the lever arm.
    3) Install the throttle lever arm 1/8" hex wrench
    4) Put the throttle at idle and turn the key to right (pre start position) dash should boot.
    5) Place the multi-meter in Vdc and measure the voltage between the pin A and B as shown in the diagram. At idle it should be adjusted (rotate entire unit) to less than 1 volt (in one place I read it should be between 0.95 and 1.0 volts) I set my to ~0.97 volts
    6) Check the voltage between pin D and E and it should be new the same atleast below 1 volt.
    Screen Shot 2017-06-17 at 9.38.10 PM.png
    IMG_2780.jpg
    Screen Shot 2017-06-17 at 9.34.02 PM.png
    7) Check full throttle voltage should be above 3.75 volts (I have read in places here it should up to around 5 volts)
    8) Tighten the two nuts on the PPS to lock in the calibration
    9) Re-insert the environmental barrier back into the PPS sensor harness
    10) Start engine and verify that the throttle is responding appropriately. (you will need to jumper the safety switch if you have removed the side panel aka paper clip connecting each spade)

    Re-assembly by reversing the disassembly.

    References:
    http://marinepowerusa.com/wp-content...ice_Manual.pdf

    http://www.mouser.com/ds/2/657/ds_9850_Series-1062957.pdf
    Last edited by acropilotbret; 06-18-2017, 04:21 PM.

    #2
    Great write up. Thanks for posting.

    Comment


      #3
      Sure thing! This forum has helped me so much I felt the need to pay it forward.

      Comment


        #4
        IMG_2779 updated.jpg

        Another way to adjust the potentiometer is to remove the locking screw, loosen the slotted screw, then the entire area that holds the potentiometer slides back and forth. Once its slid into the correct range, tighten slotted screw and put the locking screw back in.
        Oh Yeah!

        Comment


          #5
          Boat was stuck in limp mode yesterday.

          I found this with some help of some people.

          Voltage checked at .88 idle, I adjusted it to .95ish and will fake a lake it later this week and see if it still is in limp.

          Anyone have this issue and not replace the sensor?
          Voltage checked low, I'm not sure which pins tells me the internal resistance of the sensor so unsure how to exactly verify the sensor itself is OK.

          Comment


            #6
            I sure wish I saw this calibrating tutorial before my last holidays. I'm going to try this tonight before replacing my Pot.

            Comment


              #7
              Originally posted by 14burrito View Post
              Boat was stuck in limp mode yesterday.

              I found this with some help of some people.

              Voltage checked at .88 idle, I adjusted it to .95ish and will fake a lake it later this week and see if it still is in limp.

              Anyone have this issue and not replace the sensor?
              Voltage checked low, I'm not sure which pins tells me the internal resistance of the sensor so unsure how to exactly verify the sensor itself is OK.
              So did just adjusting it work for you? Or did you have to change out the part as well? Thanks in advance.

              Comment


                #8

                Ordered a new PPS THRU allied elec. MOUSER was back ordered.
                https://www.alliedelec.com/view/sear...rd=9861R5KL2.0
                you can order as a guest. Should be here tomorrow according to website they have 11 on hand. Hope this fixes my throttle issue bc calibrating the old one definitely did not work for me.

                Comment


                  #9
                  I’ve got the same model and year as you. Beginning of last season I sent my ECM in to Marine Power for a reflash and my boat didn’t go into limp mode once all last summer. I thought I had the problem sorted out but last week I was on the lake and it did it 3x. I’m going to go ahead and replace the potentiometer this time.
                  Thanks for the detailed write up Acro!
                  Cheers!

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Replaced the sensor and followed the instructions and boat ran like a champ all weekend with no issues, thanks for the write up.

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Does it need to be recalibrated when replacing it with a new part?

                      Comment


                        #12
                        I think you have to re-calibrate it whenever replacing it because the calibration is positional, however, I don't know, but I may be doing the same thing next spring...

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Yes new or old will have to be calibrated. I tried re calibrating my old one but it did not fix it. Good practice for when the new one came in though.

                          Comment


                            #14
                            So I have been having some issues with my throttle and Marine Power asked me to test my Potentiometer, luckily I came across this post. The trouble I am having is that my multimeter is showing zero V when testing my Pot harness as you described. I have tested the meter elsewhere to make sure it is working and I have the tested with both the key in the Acc position as well as the Run position.
                            Any thoughts would be appreciated.


                            Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Originally posted by crzylgs View Post
                              So I have been having some issues with my throttle and Marine Power asked me to test my Potentiometer, luckily I came across this post. The trouble I am having is that my multimeter is showing zero V when testing my Pot harness as you described. I have tested the meter elsewhere to make sure it is working and I have the tested with both the key in the Acc position as well as the Run position.
                              Any thoughts would be appreciated.


                              Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
                              I’m in the same exact situation.

                              ive tried paper clips in the back of the sensor, I tried cutting a small amount of shielding back... still getting 0.0v from A to B.

                              Comment

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