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How to Replace Pedal Position Sensor (throttle position sensor) and calibrate it

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  • chris33ski
    replied
    So, I’m trying to get a couple more days of life out of the out of the Poteniometer. New one due on Monday. Anything you can think of to help? Air Chuck and blow it out? WD-40 connections to clean em up? Throttle works for a bit, but after a few minutes, goes into limp mode. Turn boat off, wait 1 minute, then works fine again for a while. Thnx!

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  • flyboy
    replied
    Originally posted by Ronald View Post

    Ok your boat looks cable operation not fly by wire. For this reason this would not apply to your boat.

    On what you are saying I would check the distributor cap. I had a similar problem at it turned out to be the culprit. I now check my cap every year before the season starts
    Ended up being my Spark Plugs! Boat runs like a bat out of hell now....

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  • Ronald
    replied
    Originally posted by flyboy View Post
    Reading posts my 2005 Switch Ci has similar issues running great, then rough and on 4 cylinders. I removed my throttle thinking to check the PPS! Looks as though I dont have one on the throttle like in earlier posts in this thread?

    Can anyone comment on this?
    Ok your boat looks cable operation not fly by wire. For this reason this would not apply to your boat.

    On what you are saying I would check the distributor cap. I had a similar problem at it turned out to be the culprit. I now check my cap every year before the season starts

    Leave a comment:


  • Ronald
    replied
    Ok chaps today I decided to check my voltage on the pin A&B and D&E. the post says that the voltage should be the same. Mine is 0.98 and 0.83. No mater how I adjust it on the slot. It remains the same difference between the two. Question is do I need a news sensor?

    Leave a comment:


  • flyboy
    replied
    Reading posts my 2005 Switch Ci has similar issues running great, then rough and on 4 cylinders. I removed my throttle thinking to check the PPS! Looks as though I dont have one on the throttle like in earlier posts in this thread?

    Can anyone comment on this?
    Attached Files

    Leave a comment:


  • Grebva3
    replied
    I’ve helped two others changed this out this write up is solid and very helpful.

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  • Bassjbl
    replied
    Anyone having issues with this, you MUST DISCONNECT your multi meter before it will work!

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  • acropilotbret
    replied
    So I replied via DM but will post here. A couple of thoughts:

    1) is linkage is installed 180 out?
    2) did you buy the correct part number some are CCW some are CW Pots
    3) Look closely at the pin out specifically the keying of the connector and make sure you are measuring between Pin A and B if you get the wrong side of the pot it will read backward (I think)

    Hopefully that all helps. I'm happy so many people have benefitted from this post. You all have helped me in the past so I love the pay it forward aspects. TBH I haven't checked back in on this post in 4 years LOL.

    Leave a comment:


  • AllRollo
    replied
    Awesome write up. I have a similar 2007 22ve 5.7 L Marine Power. Attempting this today, got the new one in, but the voltage at idle I can only adjust between 5v and 3.5v. Then when I put it into full throttle position it drops to the .97v range. I attempted both the slide and rotate options to adjust, bit I'm nowhere near the ranges listed in this write up.

    Any help will be appreciated.

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  • red68yota
    replied
    Thanks for the write-up. My throttle was weird the last time I went out (sometimes wouldn’t go above idle, then shut-down/re-start would get it working again. Did this a few times). I’m checking the PPS voltages now and between the orange/green wires I get a voltage that fluctuates between 0.86-1.00V at IDLE. When I check between the blue/black wires I get a steady 1.00V.
    Last edited by red68yota; 06-17-2021, 11:09 PM.

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  • Majr808
    replied
    The reason I was getting 0V was because the pink wire on the TAC module had broken off the 12v power from the ignition switch... Thus no power to the tac module, and no power to potentiometer. This solved my issue. Maybe this can help someone else down the road

    Leave a comment:


  • Grebva3
    replied
    I used paper clips and that made life much easier to test voltage. It took me a couple of tries to have the voltage inside of tolerance and be able to screw it tight so the adjustments held.

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  • Majr808
    replied
    Originally posted by crzylgs View Post
    So I have been having some issues with my throttle and Marine Power asked me to test my Potentiometer, luckily I came across this post. The trouble I am having is that my multimeter is showing zero V when testing my Pot harness as you described. I have tested the meter elsewhere to make sure it is working and I have the tested with both the key in the Acc position as well as the Run position.
    Any thoughts would be appreciated.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    I’m in the same exact situation.

    ive tried paper clips in the back of the sensor, I tried cutting a small amount of shielding back... still getting 0.0v from A to B.

    Leave a comment:


  • crzylgs
    replied
    So I have been having some issues with my throttle and Marine Power asked me to test my Potentiometer, luckily I came across this post. The trouble I am having is that my multimeter is showing zero V when testing my Pot harness as you described. I have tested the meter elsewhere to make sure it is working and I have the tested with both the key in the Acc position as well as the Run position.
    Any thoughts would be appreciated.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

    Leave a comment:


  • Grebva3
    replied
    Yes new or old will have to be calibrated. I tried re calibrating my old one but it did not fix it. Good practice for when the new one came in though.

    Leave a comment:

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