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Switch won't shut off
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I have the exact same thing going on... Was this ever figured out??? It is like my bilge pump switch wire has constant power.... don’t know why... even with no bilge connected the light is on for the bilge on the dash the second the battery is turned on... so I do not believe it is a secondary after market float switch but I could be wrong... Glad mine turns off once the boat is turned off but I had to disconnect the bilge pump... I even bought a brand new one because I thought it was the bilge but no dice. There is something that is keeping the switch wire hot... And I didn’t change anything on my boat... The bilge stopped working recently when I suffered the notorious leak from my shaft seal a couple days ago... got above the exhaust pipes but not to the motor before I caught it... still trying to diagnose but wondering how many others have had this issue... could moisture in the wiring harness be causing it to be HOT from grounding it to other wires that it is traveling with possibly? I have no clue but would love to have some help from the gang!Originally posted by Tanner View PostSo my Bilge Pump dash switch won't turn off. I even tried turning off both the perko switches from the batteries and it still wouldn't shut off..... WHAT THE HECK?????
How in the heck does Tige have this thing wired?
It was doing this around the 4th.... but I finally got it to switch off. I finally had to crawl under the dash and unplug a wire to get it to shut off. So what's going on here?
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Bilge is not connected at all but still showing the power is on at the dash when the rocker is not in the in position. Also, not sure where it leads to... will try to trace it tomorrow. Where should it go? Back to the dash? Thanks!Originally posted by freeheel4life View PostSometimes the float switch gets stuck, or sensor fails depending on what type of float switch has been installed. Whats the brown wire from your battery + lead to??
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I would agree something to do with wiring. We just replaced our original 23 year old bilge pump a few weeks ago. It was starting to make some noise. We connected the new pump wires to the original factory wiring. When we turned it on we couldn't turn it back off. Checked the connections at the factory connection crimps and they were loose. After we replaced the factory crimps. good to go.Mike Allen, Tigé owner since 1997
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Originally posted by TeamAllen View PostI would agree something to do with wiring. We just replaced our original 23 year old bilge pump a few weeks ago. It was starting to make some noise. We connected the new pump wires to the original factory wiring. When we turned it on we couldn't turn it back off. Checked the connections at the factory connection crimps and they were loose. After we replaced the factory crimps. good to go.Brown wire goes from distribution box back to the switch. Just checked the switch and replaced with another and doing the same thing. Will see if I can track something else down but so far still a mystery here! Somewhere in the wires between the switch and the pump it is making the determination that the switch should be in with no bilge installed at all. Finally found it.Originally posted by freeheel4life View PostBrown wire at battery + should lead to you bilge pump and float switch. Maybe the switch itself is the issue.....
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Mike! 23 years! Geesh! Lol. I had found the a wire was loose and touching the switch wire. Took apart and back together. G2G now! Curious about your FAE though since you have a similar era boat. Does this look too far out? I feel like it is. Every time I reset I feel like it moves again. However I don’t use the set screws as I didn’t think they would help that much but maybe that’s my issue? Seems like a bad design as the force of the exhaust seems like it would over power the strength of the set screw in the rubber connection parts. Any advice?
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