Crimping connectors on large wire

[jwanck11]

What do folks use for crimping connectors onto 2/0 to 4 gauge wire? The tools I have found online are $$$$! There is a hammer tool that I've found for significantly less. Anyone use something like THIS?

[chpthril]

That tool works good.

What I like to do is clamp the terminal eye in a vise, heat it with a butane torch and fill it about 1/4 to 1/3 full with liquid solder and then slide the spliced end in and let it cool. When cool, cover with heat shrink.

[Fast1911]

I actually have the crimp tools for those big connectors, but I guess being in the electrical trade helps. Try using the vice idea or you might have to find some type of bolt on connector.

[billspin]

jwanck11 - I used that tool and the connectors did not come loose. It worked very good.

[jwanck11]

Cool! Thanks very much for the responses. I was actually thinking of doing a blend of methods using soldier and then crimping. Always woried about a cold solder connection...

[dogbert]

My dealer had a crimping tool and, since I got some of the cable from them anyways, they just did it for me.

[chpthril]

Cool! Thanks very much for the responses. I was actually thinking of doing a blend of methods using soldier and then crimping. Always worried about a cold solder connection...

As long as you heat the connector to the point that the solder melts as you touch it to the inside, it should be a good solder.

[showtz]

I bought the same hammer crimper for 2 ott O rings. I bought it from this place cheap: https://weldingsupply.securesites.co...20940:OR:04040

[jwanck11]

wow - that is a great price!

I do have a fair amount of experience with soldering but did have one or two bad solders when I used to make r/c batt packs. That is why I thought about doing both...

[Jason B]

That tool works good.

What I like to do is clamp the terminal eye in a vise, heat it with a butane torch and fill it about 1/4 to 1/3 full with liquid solder and then slide the spliced end in and let it cool. When cool, cover with heat shrink.

IMO, this is the most professional looking way and makes the joint totally secure. I did exactly that on all of mine (lots!) I went one step further though, and used a vice grip plier with a round mouth to squeeze them shut--adjust the knob so it's tight then close the pliers using thier leverage to close the gap in the terminal. Then put the supplied red/black boot over the end.
Looks VERY good and literally held me (180#) from the terminal ring--that's secure.

[Jason B]

wow - that is a great price!

I do have a fair amount of experience with soldering but did have one or two bad solders when I used to make r/c batt packs. That is why I thought about doing both...

Unless you have one HELLUVA soldering iron, you'll have to use a propane/MAPP gas torch and solder. I would just use the torch; makes it quick and easy.

[jwanck11]

Thanks Jason... that is basically the same thing that I am going to do but instead of using vise grips, I am thinking of using the hammer crimper. The pull strength is rated at 1800#'s

[jwanck11]

last question on this. Do you guys use an electrical solder (higher silver content) or regular plumbing solder?

I have a hard time locally finding electrical solder in quantity

[chpthril]

last question on this. Do you guys use an electrical solder (higher silver content) or regular plumbing solder?

I have a hard time locally finding electrical solder in quantity

Resin core, NOT Acid core.

[jwanck11]

Thanks! Will take a look at the stuff I have.

I am used to the small RC and model train boards where I use electrical solder and to plumbing as well. Not sure I ever took notice of resin vs. acid core.