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  • philwsailz
    replied
    Originally posted by xpjim1 View Post
    Mine definately says can play all channels with only one input. I will play with it tomorrow. On a side not how can you tell if a sub is shot, no good, went bad etc?
    on the sub answer, sort of... One should be able to oush down on the woofer right at the center of the cone and have it move easily, freely, with no noise. If there is a scraping sound, or if it moves with a lot of resistance, you could have either bottomed out the voice coil former or "shucked" the voice coil; i.e. ran it hot enough to melt the adhesive that holds the wire core to the former, allowing it to come off.

    That is the easy test. Occasionally we see the motor adhesives fail; i.e. the magnet and/or the back plate become separated; it still sticks together due to magnetism, but the stuff goes out of alignment and it prevents the cone from moving.

    One can also burn a coil open without it falling off of the former, resulting in an electrically open circuit. I doubt this is the case, as you say the woofer moves some....
    Last edited by philwsailz; 04-24-2008, 08:40 PM.

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  • xpjim1
    replied
    I will try 2 and 3 inouts. Hope the cmd3 has enough to power a 3 way split if needed or should I do a split off the front outputs and a split off the rear outputs

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  • philwsailz
    replied
    Originally posted by spharis View Post
    It says that, but it doesn't work properly. Phil confirmed this in chp's original thread; unless you have a different amp.
    IT is a different amp CHP was messing with one of the KICKER ZX700.5's.

    XP's amp is a Cadence amp...

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  • xpjim1
    replied
    Yep different amp. Cadence vs a kicker

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  • spharis
    replied
    It says that, but it doesn't work properly. Phil confirmed this in chp's original thread; unless you have a different amp.

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  • xpjim1
    replied
    Mine definately says can play all channels with only one input. I will play with it tomorrow. On a side not how can you tell if a sub is shot, no good, went bad etc?

    Leave a comment:


  • chpthril
    replied
    Originally posted by philwsailz View Post
    There is a chance you may need to. SOmeone recently had a similar issue, I think it was CHP and a KICKER amp even. A couple sets of y-adaptors to manually connect to the amp inputs solved the issue. It is worth trying...
    Yeah, it was me, we found that the pre-ZX 700.5 needs both amp1 and amp 2 inputs to play all for chnls. A splitter "Y" fixed it.

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  • philwsailz
    replied
    let us know; hopefully we can get to the bottom of it and help ya!

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  • xpjim1
    replied
    I will give it a shot tomorrow when back at the boat.

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  • Jason B
    replied
    Originally posted by larryueckert View Post
    Just like mom use to say don't ride your bike in the house dont play your sub with out a box
    Wow, your Mom was STRICT

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  • philwsailz
    replied
    that input switch might be dirty or damaged too....

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  • philwsailz
    replied
    Originally posted by xpjim1 View Post
    ok sub is single voice coil. Amp says if 1 input , use input 1, if 2 inputs use input 1 and 2 and if 3 inputs use all 3. Selector switch on amp has input 1, input 1 and 2, and all. So not sure if I can just put the input in the sub. Would need to split single output into 3 outputs
    There is a chance you may need to. SOmeone recently had a similar issue, I think it was CHP and a KICKER amp even. A couple sets of y-adaptors to manually connect to the amp inputs solved the issue. It is worth trying...

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  • larryueckert
    replied
    Just like mom use to say don't ride your bike in the house dont play your sub with out a box

    Leave a comment:


  • xpjim1
    replied
    ok sub is single voice coil. Amp says if 1 input , use input 1, if 2 inputs use input 1 and 2 and if 3 inputs use all 3. Selector switch on amp has input 1, input 1 and 2, and all. So not sure if I can just put the input in the sub. Would need to split single output into 3 outputs

    Leave a comment:


  • dogbert
    replied
    Originally posted by philwsailz View Post
    you went there didn't you...
    Yes I did!

    Originally posted by philwsailz View Post

    A vented enclosure takes advantage of the fact that air is compressable. When you open the door a little, you are using the door as a crude tuning device.

    What you are doing basically is setting up a Helmholtz resonant device, where the air inside acts as a spring and compresses and releases more or less at or near the same frequency that the woofer is operating at. Rather than simply relieving the pressure inside the box, the air going in and out the door actually moves in phase with the woofer, i.e. when the woofer cone is going out, the air in the doorway is going out as well.. Same thing for inward travel.

    Sounds crazy, but aids in the understanding... A vented woofer enclosure operating at resonance will have higher internal pressure when compared to a similar sealed box.
    Makes sense.

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