Part Numbers and Source for Isolator and Perko

[da.bell]

Powder coat on billets chips off real easy.

Yes it does and the reason why I didn't want it on my uprights. Unfortunately everyone wanted to keep it on except Tige salesmen, the dealer, and me.... Mine is already chiping off on the uprights... Probably a winter project to take it off.

[Guest]

Yes it does and the reason why I didn't want it on my uprights. Unfortunately everyone wanted to keep it on except Tige salesmen, the dealer, and me.... Mine is already chiping off on the uprights... Probably a winter project to take it off.

It seems that every time I disconnect or reconnect the billets paint comes off. Not good IMHO

Is it common for the MP motor to have a ton of grease on the block ?

[Guest]

To get power to the alt lead when not running it would seem that I need to add high power diodes in line from b1 and b2 of the isolator to the common. the anode of the diodes would be hooked to the b1 and b2 leads while the cathodes would go to the common alt input.

Would this work? Diodes will isolate batteries from each other and be reverse biased when alternator is running and allow power when engine not running!

Am I heading south here?

[da.bell]

It seems that every time I disconnect or reconnect the billets paint comes off. Not good IMHO

Is it common for the MP motor to have a ton of grease on the block ?

Um, you shouldn't have grease on the engine yet. Over a period of time that you have own your boat might be a different story but the engine should be sparkling clean.

[Guest]

Um, you shouldn't have grease on the engine yet. Over a period of time that you have own your boat might be a different story but the engine should be sparkling clean.

It looks like the block had been packed in some sort of grease and it has never been cleaned off.. I don't want to use Gunk or other de-greaser because it will leave a heck of a grease film in the bilge and possibly the adjacent carpeting

When the block is warm from running on a fake a lake I guess I can go in there with rags and clean up the grease on the block
Another sign this boat was not detailed.

Still puzzled by the electrical.

[chpthril]

Correct. But I can't turn on blower or running lights this way. They all seem to be tied to the wiring that runs back to alternator. Is this common?

I would think that the blower should have power without engine running as well as nav and anchor lights plus cockpit lights. The only way for me to get these on is make what I think is the alternator lead,red lead which goes to circuit breaker (thermal) on the floor hot. Doing this kind of defeats the purpose of the isolator.

Boat is in garage at moment and I have not tried starting motor yet. It will crank but again the items which I think should always have power don't unless I make what I think is alternator lead hot.

I do have 12vdc at the B1 & B2 terminals of the isolator and nothing at common since it goes to alternator and what appears to be other house wiring. Seperate leads for bilge float goes to Pos of batt 1.

Perko switch is operating ok so being redundant it appears the Alt Positive lead is also positive to house wiring which will have 0 vdc unless running.

Puzzled?

First, let me ask what is your reson for putting in a Perko in conjunction with the Iso??? What are you hoping the Perko will allow you to do??

Sounds like there is something mis-wired between the Iso and Perko! How exactly did you wire this up? Not to toot my own horn, but, did you fallow one of my diagrams (cant remember is I sent you a schematic or not) or what did yoo fallow?

To get power to the alt lead when not running it would seem that I need to add high power diodes in line from b1 and b2 of the isolator to the common. the anode of the diodes would be hooked to the b1 and b2 leads while the cathodes would go to the common alt input.

Would this work? Diodes will isolate batteries from each other and be reverse biased when alternator is running and allow power when engine not running!

Am I heading south here?

No, you dont want to do anything like this.

[Guest]

First, let me ask what is your reson for putting in a Perko in conjunction with the Iso??? What are you hoping the Perko will allow you to do??

Sounds like there is something mis-wired between the Iso and Perko! How exactly did you wire this up? Not to toot my own horn, but, did you fallow one of my diagrams (cant remember is I sent you a schematic or not) or what did yoo fallow?



No, you dont want to do anything like this.

I used one of your diagrams as a reference. It is the one hat shows a batt switch and an isolator where batt switch was optional( dotted lines).

I want batt switch so I can select battery and turn off batteries when boat is stored and not in use.

Is the house Positve thru the Alternator lead? Is the alternator lead the one with the thermal fuse in line abot 18 inches from terminal that? I thought this lead went to the original batt switch.

[chpthril]

I used one of your diagrams as a reference. It is the one that shows a batt switch and an isolator where batt switch was optional( dotted lines).

I want batt switch so I can select battery and turn off batteries when boat is stored and not in use.

Is the house Positve thru the Alternator lead? Is the alternator lead the one with the thermal fuse in line abot 18 inches from terminal that? I thought this lead went to the original batt switch.

Is this the schematic you used?


Did your boat have a ON/OFF switch?

Because your boat had a single battery to start with, ALL of the electronics are, directly or remotely, powered off that original battery. You need to decide whether you want an automatically isolated system, or a manually isolated system. Then we can figure out how to configure it.

Automatically isolated system (like mine):
Pros = Both batteries charge through Iso while engine is running, "Starting" battery will never be run dead by accessories, No need to manually select a battery, the switch stays in B1 (Starting battery), "House" battery is in reserve to start engine in an emergency (this would be the only time I move the switch from B1 to B2).
Cons = Cannot disconnect batteries from loads during long storage.

Manually Isolated with switch:
Pro = Able to disconnect battery from loads for storage. No need to electronic Isolator.

Cons = Must manually switch from "Starting" to "House" when anchored/beached, and back again when leaving, Possible to run both dead if switch is left in BOTH, Have to run switch in BOTH to charge both.

Adding an Iso to the Manual system will allow both batteries to charge while engine is running without the need to move switch, but everything else stays the same.

[Guest]

Is this the schematic you used?


Did your boat have a ON/OFF switch?

Because your boat had a single battery to start with, ALL of the electronics are, directly or remotely, powered off that original battery. You need to decide whether you want an automatically isolated system, or a manually isolated system. Then we can figure out how to configure it.

Automatically isolated system (like mine):
Pros = Both batteries charge through Iso while engine is running, "Starting" battery will never be run dead by accessories, No need to manually select a battery, the switch stays in B1 (Starting battery), "House" battery is in reserve to start engine in an emergency (this would be the only time I move the switch from B1 to B2).
Cons = Cannot disconnect batteries from loads during long storage.

Manually Isolated with switch:
Pro = Able to disconnect battery from loads for storage. No need to electronic Isolator.

Cons = Must manually switch from "Starting" to "House" when anchored/beached, and back again when leaving, Possible to run both dead if switch is left in BOTH, Have to run switch in BOTH to charge both.

Adding an Iso to the Manual system will allow both batteries to charge while engine is running without the need to move switch, but everything else stays the same.

Yes that was schematic I used. I used the dashed line and small red lines.

The original wiring had the starting battery going to the switch and the other side of the switch going to the starter and the alternator. It also has a dedicated fused lead from Starting Battery to the bilge.

So it sounds like my choice is to go manual and move the Alternator lead to the common of the 1 2 all off Perko switch and eliminate the isolator because once I connect the alternator to the common of the Perko it will effectively eliminate the isolator. I will go this route since it is the simplest to re-wire and will have the least affect on the boats overall wiring.

I will go to Manual System
To simplify Starting Battery to 1 on Perko. Deepcycle Battery to # 2 on Perko. Common on Perko to Alternator and Starter. Eliminate Isolator remove all leads to isolator. Remount Perko.

I will take care of tomorrow night and lower the gain on the ZX550.2 so it is balanced with the in boat system.

Thank you for the assist Mike. Much appreciated.

[chpthril]

Dont go pulling it apart just yet. I think we can make this work so it will be fully automatic and idiot proof.

Sounds like you want to be able to (1) have both batteries charges simultaneously while engine is running (2) be able to play tunes and other accessories with out fear of running the "Starting" battery down (3) be able to disconnect loads from batteries for long storage?

If this sounds right, give us some time and we will have a solution, I have an idea

[philwsailz]

Bwaaahaaaa haaaa!!!!!

The mad scientist hobbles off to the lab....

[chpthril]

^^^ I enjoy the problem solving

[Guest]

^^^ I enjoy the problem solving

And I thought I was loosing my mind on this

[philwsailz]

Not really... With an isolator / combiner, AND a swich, there are a lot of possibilities, each with their own relative merit.

It can make your head spin; Dom and I went round and round and roud one day on his boat due to charging system wiring... Despite 7 batteries, and a well thought out design, we could not figure out why the system had no balls...

Then we found out that there was a ground wire missing to tie it al together. He put it in and everything was fine.

[philwsailz]

^^^ I enjoy the problem solving

well....


Hurry up!


What do you think?

I am seriously considering a Blue Sea ACR like Micah is using to install on my sailboat. I can install battery banks in two sets; one for the lighting and one for entertainment. That way, if I am out late after dark jammin, I can pretty much use up the entertainment battery, and still have nav lighting juice!