Just bought 2009 Z1 having major issues any help is thankful!

[Ditch Doctor]

I agree with most of the above. The "tin can" noise could be a loose price rattling, or it could be some form of spark knock or back fire. Both of which are probably caused by pour gas quality or flow and weak spark (I.e. Bad spark plug). A full service and tune up is the best place to start.

[UNSTUCK]

The IAC, or idle air control stepper motor is located on the throttle body. It has a plunger that gets dirty over time and sticks, this messes up the idle and causes surging, or the up and down in the rpm's. Google "IAC Stepper Motor" for pictures and you'll be able to identify it on your throttle body. You could even remove it by unscrewing the 2-3 screws holding it in and just clean it with carb or brake clean. Then reinstall. No big deal.

A fuel pressure gauge screws into the fuel rail on top of the engine. Usually the valve is at one of the ends. It will have a black plastic cap on it. Remove that and you will see a valve that looks like the valve to put air in tires. The gauge hose will screw on to it. It usually goes on without a mess, but if the gauge does not have a relief button and hose, it can make a bit of a mess when unscrewing it. Just be fast and have a rag under it. If your high pressure pump is going bad it will usually run at full pressure (I think upper 50's to low 60's on your boat, maybe wrong though) with cold gas. As things warm up you'll see that start to drop off and under heavy load it will drop way off.

For clarification, once your engine is warm and you're cruising on the lake you loose power, the engine runs rough, and maybe dies. If you were to stop and let the boat just idle for a minute or so, would it then have a strong hole shot and run good again for a bit before happening again? Or would it just sit there idling bad and not recover?

[Boatman_FX4]

The IAC, or idle air control stepper motor is located on the throttle body. It has a plunger that gets dirty over time and sticks, this messes up the idle and causes surging, or the up and down in the rpm's. Google "IAC Stepper Motor" for pictures and you'll be able to identify it on your throttle body. You could even remove it by unscrewing the 2-3 screws holding it in and just clean it with carb or brake clean. Then reinstall. No big deal.

A fuel pressure gauge screws into the fuel rail on top of the engine. Usually the valve is at one of the ends. It will have a black plastic cap on it. Remove that and you will see a valve that looks like the valve to put air in tires. The gauge hose will screw on to it. It usually goes on without a mess, but if the gauge does not have a relief button and hose, it can make a bit of a mess when unscrewing it. Just be fast and have a rag under it. If your high pressure pump is going bad it will usually run at full pressure (I think upper 50's to low 60's on your boat, maybe wrong though) with cold gas. As things warm up you'll see that start to drop off and under heavy load it will drop way off.

For clarification, once your engine is warm and you're cruising on the lake you loose power, the engine runs rough, and maybe dies. If you were to stop and let the boat just idle for a minute or so, would it then have a strong hole shot and run good again for a bit before happening again? Or would it just sit there idling bad and not recover?

This is perfect thanks for the breakdown! I will try this out! I am scheduled to bring the boat back in tomato but i am going to change all the plugs and do what you've said up here looking at the sensor.

Boat starts right up runs great when i unload it then i go drive it around at 3/4 throttle and full throttle for maybe 15-20 min then let off of the gas and it will go down to idling and start shaking and cutting out trying to rev up and down to keep from dying. If i punch it it takes a minute for the boat to register it and then it will "oomph" and take off but you can still feel it cut out a little while running at any speeds it just kind of lags or misses very little but you can feel it and it makes that tin can noise which i think is a bad miss or backfire. It will try to recover while idling but eventually dies when i put it in to gear and give it a little throttle or it will just die when idling. Its just driving me nuts.

First time i took it out i let it sit about 30 min hanging out then it would run fine just for a few minutes then back to the same stuff so its definitely when the engine warms up.

[UNSTUCK]

If it runs fine for that first 15-20 minutes then starts to run bad only when you go down to idle it's probably not a fuel issue. A fuel issue would normally be just the opposite. Runs good/ok at idle and very poor under load. Check the IAC, but I'm wondering now if you have bad injectors leaking fuel into the cylinders. That can cause ignition in the exhaust which could explain the noises you hear. Thought I read also that you had wet/dirty plugs, another indication.

[IDBoating]

If it runs fine for that first 15-20 minutes then starts to run bad only when you go down to idle it's probably not a fuel issue. A fuel issue would normally be just the opposite. Runs good/ok at idle and very poor under load. Check the IAC, but I'm wondering now if you have bad injectors leaking fuel into the cylinders. That can cause ignition in the exhaust which could explain the noises you hear. Thought I read also that you had wet/dirty plugs, another indication.

With the better description of how the engine behaves, I now agree with this. Most likely not a fuel delivery problem or your symptoms would invert. I'd remove, inspect, and clean the IAC just as UnStuck recommended.

[Boatman_FX4]

Engine problem has been resolved!!!!!!! Crank position sensor was the verdict finally got it back today and took it out and it seems to have fixed the problem. Not very happy about having to take the boat back in AND pay more money again but they did fix it i believe thanks for the help guys!!!!!! Pass this along for future reference!