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G-Money's ballast systems

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  • TigeDuner
    replied
    That seems to be a comman place. I have a panel under the gauges that I can put the three switches in if I relocate my stereo remote. I will be starting a thread some time next week on my install. Been fun so far.

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  • dogbert
    replied
    I didn't have enough room on my dash, so I mounted it on the side panel by the driver's seat. I'll have some pics up next week.

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  • TigeDuner
    replied
    Thanks. I think it best that I wait till they get here before I start cutting open the dash.

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  • dogbert
    replied
    I know they are 1 5/8" length wise. I mounted all 3 of mine right next to each other because didn't have a lot of room, so I cut a rectangle that was 1 5/8" x 3 7/8". It turned out looking pretty good.

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  • TigeDuner
    replied
    Dog, do you know the size of the cut out for the switches. My pumps and bags are do in this week and I want to lay out the switch locations.

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  • dogbert
    replied
    Originally posted by xpjim1 View Post
    here is my last picture from a guy who instaled the jabsco. People told him Seven should be connected to 2
    xpjim, this was gold!

    I had three switches, each wired a different way. I guess they don't have QC at Jabsco.

    I finally got my ballast system installed. I had to tap into the raw water intake, but overall I'm happy with the results. Those ballast puppies are sweet!

    I also got my fuel flow meter installed a couple of weeks ago...now I have to learn how to use it.

    After some clean-up my boat is ready for the lake!


    Sorry, no pics yet, but I'll get them next weekend.

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  • SPBFAN
    replied
    That is true. We sure gave it our best shot though. G has a good idea that I think will work though. The main thing is that it hold water and it adds weight to the boat.

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  • xpjim1
    replied
    Just goes to show that whatever type of ballast system is installed, there will always be some sort of tweaking to get the bugs out. Either way the systems accomplish the goal of filling and draining sacs with minimal manual effort

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  • G-MONEY
    replied
    Originally posted by dogbert View Post
    Not if you put in a check valve that would prevent air from getting sucked back into the sack.

    As for the pumps, they have a run-dry protection that shuts them off when they do.
    Originally posted by chpthril View Post
    The whole hype of this reversible pump system is less plumbing then the aerator style pumps. Now we are throwing extra hose and check valves in in order to stop a common problem with the cheaper aerators.

    I feel the run-dry protection will one of the factors to come into play when draining from the top of the sac.
    If I put a check valve in the vent it will allow me to fill and drain from the top and all I would need to do is add only one check valve to each sac and no extra hose.

    This will also prevent the water from draining from the sac.

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  • chpthril
    replied
    Originally posted by dogbert View Post
    Well, my thought was to just raise the level of the hose somewhere between the pump and the sack. This would minimize the back pressure. That's what I plan to do.
    When you fill through the top with a typical aerator pump system, this seems to be almost done by accedent, and most times, seems to work.

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  • dogbert
    replied
    Well, my thought was to just raise the level of the hose somewhere between the pump and the sack. This would minimize the back pressure. That's what I plan to do.

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  • chpthril
    replied
    Originally posted by dogbert View Post
    Not if you put in a check valve that would prevent air from getting sucked back into the sack.

    As for the pumps, they have a run-dry protection that shuts them off when they do.
    The whole hype of this reversible pump system is less plumbing then the aerator style pumps. Now we are throwing extra hose and check valves in in order to stop a common problem with the cheaper aerators.

    I feel the run-dry protection will one of the factors to come into play when draining from the top of the sac.

    Leave a comment:


  • dogbert
    replied
    Originally posted by chpthril View Post
    True, sucking air is wat makes them self-priming just like the raw water impellers, but because of the vent line, it will prevent a vacuum in the sac, and this may slow or prevent the emptying by drawing too much air instead of water.

    Anyway, running these dry is what leads to impeller failure. The more often it draws air, the shorter it's lifespan.
    Not if you put in a check valve that would prevent air from getting sucked back into the sack.

    As for the pumps, they have a run-dry protection that shuts them off when they do.

    Leave a comment:


  • chpthril
    replied
    Originally posted by talltigeguy View Post
    Isn't it true that with a pump that sucks air you can actually empty from the top?

    I think you only have to empty from the bottom if you have aerators, right?
    True, sucking air is wat makes them self-priming just like the raw water impellers, but because of the vent line, it will prevent a vacuum in the sac, and this may slow or prevent the emptying by drawing too much air instead of water.

    Anyway, running these dry is what leads to impeller failure. The more often it draws air, the shorter it's lifespan.

    Leave a comment:


  • talltigeguy
    replied
    Originally posted by chpthril View Post
    Filling from the top will probably solve the back-flow, but you will still need to drain from the bottom.
    Isn't it true that with a pump that sucks air you can actually empty from the top?

    I think you only have to empty from the bottom if you have aerators, right?

    Leave a comment:

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