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That seems to be a comman place. I have a panel under the gauges that I can put the three switches in if I relocate my stereo remote. I will be starting a thread some time next week on my install. Been fun so far.
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I didn't have enough room on my dash, so I mounted it on the side panel by the driver's seat. I'll have some pics up next week.
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Thanks. I think it best that I wait till they get here before I start cutting open the dash.
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I know they are 1 5/8" length wise. I mounted all 3 of mine right next to each other because didn't have a lot of room, so I cut a rectangle that was 1 5/8" x 3 7/8". It turned out looking pretty good.
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Dog, do you know the size of the cut out for the switches. My pumps and bags are do in this week and I want to lay out the switch locations.
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xpjim, this was gold!Originally posted by xpjim1 View Posthere is my last picture from a guy who instaled the jabsco. People told him Seven should be connected to 2
I had three switches, each wired a different way. I guess they don't have QC at Jabsco.
I finally got my ballast system installed. I had to tap into the raw water intake, but overall I'm happy with the results. Those ballast puppies are sweet!
I also got my fuel flow meter installed a couple of weeks ago...now I have to learn how to use it.
After some clean-up my boat is ready for the lake!
Sorry, no pics yet, but I'll get them next weekend.
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That is true. We sure gave it our best shot though. G has a good idea that I think will work though. The main thing is that it hold water and it adds weight to the boat.
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Just goes to show that whatever type of ballast system is installed, there will always be some sort of tweaking to get the bugs out. Either way the systems accomplish the goal of filling and draining sacs with minimal manual effort
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Originally posted by dogbert View PostNot if you put in a check valve that would prevent air from getting sucked back into the sack.
As for the pumps, they have a run-dry protection that shuts them off when they do.If I put a check valve in the vent it will allow me to fill and drain from the top and all I would need to do is add only one check valve to each sac and no extra hose.Originally posted by chpthril View PostThe whole hype of this reversible pump system is less plumbing then the aerator style pumps. Now we are throwing extra hose and check valves in in order to stop a common problem with the cheaper aerators.
I feel the run-dry protection will one of the factors to come into play when draining from the top of the sac.
This will also prevent the water from draining from the sac.
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When you fill through the top with a typical aerator pump system, this seems to be almost done by accedent, and most times, seems to work.Originally posted by dogbert View PostWell, my thought was to just raise the level of the hose somewhere between the pump and the sack. This would minimize the back pressure. That's what I plan to do.
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Well, my thought was to just raise the level of the hose somewhere between the pump and the sack. This would minimize the back pressure. That's what I plan to do.
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The whole hype of this reversible pump system is less plumbing then the aerator style pumps. Now we are throwing extra hose and check valves in in order to stop a common problem with the cheaper aerators.Originally posted by dogbert View PostNot if you put in a check valve that would prevent air from getting sucked back into the sack.
As for the pumps, they have a run-dry protection that shuts them off when they do.
I feel the run-dry protection will one of the factors to come into play when draining from the top of the sac.
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Not if you put in a check valve that would prevent air from getting sucked back into the sack.Originally posted by chpthril View PostTrue, sucking air is wat makes them self-priming just like the raw water impellers, but because of the vent line, it will prevent a vacuum in the sac, and this may slow or prevent the emptying by drawing too much air instead of water.
Anyway, running these dry is what leads to impeller failure. The more often it draws air, the shorter it's lifespan.
As for the pumps, they have a run-dry protection that shuts them off when they do.
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True, sucking air is wat makes them self-priming just like the raw water impellers, but because of the vent line, it will prevent a vacuum in the sac, and this may slow or prevent the emptying by drawing too much air instead of water.Originally posted by talltigeguy View PostIsn't it true that with a pump that sucks air you can actually empty from the top?
I think you only have to empty from the bottom if you have aerators, right?
Anyway, running these dry is what leads to impeller failure. The more often it draws air, the shorter it's lifespan.
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Isn't it true that with a pump that sucks air you can actually empty from the top?Originally posted by chpthril View PostFilling from the top will probably solve the back-flow, but you will still need to drain from the bottom.
I think you only have to empty from the bottom if you have aerators, right?
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