Which batteries are best for audio power??

[Jeff T]

Wow. Thanks guys. I appreciate it. I was only going to do one 12v battery in addition to the starter. Now, I'm thinking I might need two deep cycles. We anchor and sit for hours sometimes. I guess I can always start with one deep, and upgrade later if I need to.

Anyway, thanks for taking the time to type all that up.

[spharis]

I think you'll be fine with 1.

[Coach]

I think you'll be fine with 1.

Me too, of course this is based upon nothing more than spharis calculations and unbelievable knowledge of batteries. Then again there is nothing like overkill. Just pick up a 8D RV battery at 175 lbs and 400 Ah you will be running strong for days and the price tag is only between $400-$600. You might lose most of your storage but what hell is more important storage or tunes!

[spharis]

BTW....here is another common formula, little more accurate, to get amp current draw.

To calculate the current draw of an amplifier, multiply the number of channels by the RMS watts per channel (a 2 channel amp rated at 300 watts RMS per channel would be 600 watts). Double it to account for amplifier inefficiency (600 watts X 2 = 1200 watts), then divide by the average output Voltage of an alternator/battery, 13.8 volts (1200 divided by 13.8 = 87 amps). Divide by 3 (87 amps divided by 3 = 29 amps). The result is the amplifier's approximate average current draw.

Naturally this is going to match the current draw based on channel RMS closer the less output the manf has listed, but it should be pretty close to what you get with the RMS per channel rating.

Some people will also just divide the fuse total by 2, or multiply by the magic 60%.

[Tanner]

It depends how long you were sitting playing for w/o running the boat. I killed 2 Optima's before (literally killed them) before I decided to re-work my system. Domslude from this forum almost had to jump me once after I drained down my deep cycle and starting battery in 30 mins...lol. That was before I decided I had better check out how Tige had things wired. Then I found they had them tied together for some reason even though they were on an isolator. Anyways, I got tired of killing batteries and replacing them and there's time we sit for 8-10 hours at a whack listening to music.

FYI:

I have somewhat close to the same system as you jeff.

I'm running 2 Kicker ZX650.4's
1 ZX750.1 - we bench tested that particular amp at over 1000W

[jleger98]

stupid question, but all of these DC systems common to Tigés' are NEGATIVE GROUND, correct?

[Coach]

It depends how long you were sitting playing for w/o running the boat. I killed 2 Optima's before (literally killed them) before I decided to re-work my system. Domslude from this forum almost had to jump me once after I drained down my deep cycle and starting battery in 30 mins...lol. That was before I decided I had better check out how Tige had things wired. Then I found they had them tied together for some reason even though they were on an isolator. Anyways, I got tired of killing batteries and replacing them and there's time we sit for 8-10 hours at a whack listening to music.

FYI:

I have somewhat close to the same system as you jeff.

I'm running 2 Kicker ZX650.4's
1 ZX750.1 - we bench tested that particular amp at over 1000W

Personally I am not a fan of the Optimas for the stereo, even though a ton of guys run them. At only 55 Ah there is not enough juice to power the stereo all day. In my buddies DCB he has 3 Blue tops and might get 30 mins of play time with his system if he turns it up at all.

[spharis]

stupid question, but all of these DC systems common to Tigés' are NEGATIVE GROUND, correct?

in regards to the stereo, yes.....I am pretty sure all the boats are as well, but who knows nowadays??

[jleger98]

Cool, I'll bet then that in '97 they still were. I just dropped 50 bux on a 140 amp battery isolator, and then I saw where it said Negative ground systems. I figured I was ok, but wanted the "expert" to confirm

[Tanner]

I agree coach

[Domsz06]

in regards to corners being cut on the same product this is not true. It's all about the advertising. An example is sugar. I went down to to a sugar plant in the texas area and they were bagging all of the same sugar into all kinds of different brands, cains, always save, alberstsons, etc.

Where you save the money is that since only the high dollar sugar advertises, they charge more.. Therefore your getting the EXACT same sugar as the cheap stuff, your just paying more because they advertise it. Simple ECON 101.

this has me thinking. I mean costco and sams both have some 6v golf cart batteries very similar to the trojan. I just wish they had the Ah rating on them. They don't so I don't feel like buying them. The trojans are twice as high, but I just can't decide. Has anyone seen these batteries? One brand is engerizer, and the other is what ever costco brand is. Anyone have any info on these 6v?'s

If what Tanner is saying is true it makes me want to go buy them and save some money.

[jleger98]

another good example. Last night I bought a 140amp battery isolator. In the process of finding the best price, I found a bunch of Marine/RV places selling the exact same isolator, and the price varied by as much as $20 bux. Seeing as thought the average price was about $52, thats almost a 30% difference. So I think some companies just try to run higher margins than others.

[Domsz06]

yup, very true, why do you think albertsons has the same stuf as price chopper, but price chopper is hella cheaper? apeal to the higher class person.

[jleger98]

yup. Every time I buy something on the net, I'll research it at a reputable place, then buy from the cheapest.

[Domsz06]

for sure!! I have saved lots of $$ by looking around!! Ski pants esp!!