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    Couple of quick questions

    Hey dudes! Couple of minor projects going before the lake this weekend, and was hoping someone knew the answers to. Replacing surf plate actuators, and throwing a couple of transom lights in, while I’m there.

    What sealant should I use for the transom lights and the wire to the actuators? Planning on 5200, but just making sure.

    I think I read at one point that the open black and blue wire that’s zip tied up on each side, actually to the actuator wires, are for the transom lights. And Red on the light to Blue on the boat, and black to black, for wiring?? If anyone can verify, I would appreciate it.

    Do I need to do something on the touchscreen to activate the transom lights? I thought I read that at one point, also. I might be as simple as going in to dealer mode and turning it on, I haven’t played with it yet.

    Koolaid, if you read this, I’m still hoping to get those bow plugs. Does anyone know what size those holes should be drilled to? And, if I drill them with out the plugs, is that water going to end up somewhere weird? Or will it find it’s way to the bilge, anyways? I’m really sick of bailing the bow out with whatever plastic cup I can find, after I lost my super soaker.


    As always, thanks for any help!!!!

    Z


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    #2
    Zack
    5200 is great stuff. If you think you may ever want to remove what you are sealing I recommend 4200. 5200 has such a strong bond it can take off gelcoat when removing things it was used on. Make sure to get Fast Cure 4200 as well. If you want to stick with 5200 recommend making sure to get fast cure as well.

    Sounds like youve got the rest of it. To activate them when you are done you will need to do the ol 9191 to get into dealer screen and enable them. When you go back to the lights screen they should fire up.

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      #3
      Originally posted by freeheel4life View Post
      Zack
      5200 is great stuff. If you think you may ever want to remove what you are sealing I recommend 4200. 5200 has such a strong bond it can take off gelcoat when removing things it was used on. Make sure to get Fast Cure 4200 as well. If you want to stick with 5200 recommend making sure to get fast cure as well.

      Sounds like youve got the rest of it. To activate them when you are done you will need to do the ol 9191 to get into dealer screen and enable them. When you go back to the lights screen they should fire up.
      You’re the man, as always, brotha!

      I’ll do 4200, then. My luck I’ll have to replace actuators in another month, and the seablaze will fail by the end of summer.

      Thanks for the info!

      You know about drilling that bow??



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        #4
        I do not. You cant really go wrong poking some holes. Water will just make it to bilge that way. Dont remember where that thread was where someone posted pics of their drains. Dont quote me ont he but I am fairly certain that the only place the deck joins the hull and liner is at the battery and drivers helm area, so a hole anywhere but there should get the water to drain into bilge....

        Hopefully someone can get some measurements for you. Otherwise I could maybe look at our RZX3 on Saturday. Im down a guy at the shop right now.

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          #5
          Originally posted by freeheel4life View Post
          I do not. You cant really go wrong poking some holes. Water will just make it to bilge that way. Dont remember where that thread was where someone posted pics of their drains. Dont quote me ont he but I am fairly certain that the only place the deck joins the hull and liner is at the battery and drivers helm area, so a hole anywhere but there should get the water to drain into bilge....

          Hopefully someone can get some measurements for you. Otherwise I could maybe look at our RZX3 on Saturday. Im down a guy at the shop right now.
          It’s all good brotha! I’ll call Justin, at some point, if he doesn’t see this. He put a pic of where the drain goes on a thread I asked about this, before, so I know where to drill. I assumed it would just run into the bilge. Apparently there’s some kind of tube/plug, that runs through something else into the bilge. I’ll see if I can see under there, and if it looks like the water could end up somewhere weird.

          Or maybe, I’ll go a whole weekend without someone crashing the bow into a wave!!!
          [emoji1694][emoji1694][emoji1694][emoji1694]


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            #6
            Boat Life - Life seal. 5200 is used when you never really want to ever take it off. Just my opinion.

            Yes, you turn them on in dealer settings. The wires are already at the transom for both sides.

            Man I completely dropped the ball on those two drain plugs. Email your address again and I will have some shipped out today.
            Oh Yeah!

            Comment


              #7
              rzx3 bow drain.jpg

              You can't touch these mad MS paint skillz yo!
              Oh Yeah!

              Comment


                #8
                Originally posted by KoolAid View Post
                Boat Life - Life seal. 5200 is used when you never really want to ever take it off. Just my opinion.

                Yes, you turn them on in dealer settings. The wires are already at the transom for both sides.

                Man I completely dropped the ball on those two drain plugs. Email your address again and I will have some shipped out today.
                You didn’t drop anything man! You told me to hit you up when I got the boat out, we’re all good!

                Had to go 4200 fast cure, because that and 5200 was all they had locally, and I have to do it tonight.

                What’s your email? Or just PM you here?

                What size hole do I drill for the plugs? Can I order the gatorstep for in those compartments through you guys?

                Thanks again for the help brotha!!


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                  #9
                  You may be able to get them through gatorstep. Its all full kits here so no individual parts. Not sure on the hole size. I am guessing 5/16". Will have to see once you have the drains.
                  Oh Yeah!

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                    #10
                    Works for me, and I’m sure figuring out the size shouldn’t stump me too bad, just curious!! Thanks again!!!


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                      #11
                      Help! Where is the fuse block at? And would have hooking 2 seablaze x spectrums up pop the fuse? I had one working, looked and had hooked one up backward (idiot, I know), and now neither work.


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                        #12
                        The PDMs (power distribution module) is the current protection. Just hook up lights and go. Unless you have a short to ground somewhere else it shouldnt trigger an over current. Havent ever used Seablaze x spectrums, are you needing to mount some type of converter/ballast for them that need seperate fused power??

                        Try dumping the master switch. Once the PDMS see an overcurrent they will lock up until they are "reset".

                        Just chased my tail on a Moomba this week. Stbd actuator was shorted and when you turned boat on auto retract cycle would short PDM which would then cause center plate to quit working(hadnt realized it yet). So fixed the the stbd actuator and then moved onto diagnosing the center. Spent time ohming out, bench testing actuator atc, when all I needed to do was kill the master switch DOH!
                        Last edited by freeheel4life; 06-07-2019, 04:48 PM.

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                          #13
                          It isn’t supposed to need a module, or anything. And I had one working.. so the only fuses on the boat, are on the distribution block? Those are all fine. Guess I’ll check the lights one at a time and see what happens, I’m baffled because 1 worked.


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                            #14
                            I tried killing the master a couple of times.. I’ll cut power to the one that didn’t work first, see if I can get the good one working again..


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                              #15
                              So the original one works with the ground cut to the other. So they’re pulling too much current on that circuit, when both hooked up, or the second light is bad.


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