The prop was never removed, I unbolted the shaft from the trans and slid it down. Does the cooler and the lines need to be purged? if so it might be possible that there is no water leaking but its just getting air rated and that is causing the slip.
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I don't like wasting money on replacing parts that are still good, so I asked many shops to do a pressure test on the trans cooler. Every one said no, the ones that said yes on the phone took one look and said its not possible. I don't like that answer and will not accept it, so I devised my own home made pressure test. I dried the trans cooler over night allowing any residual fluid to leak out, blocked one end and carefully filled the other end with water, I then blew up a glove and ziptied it on the other side, I tilted the whole thing slightly to allow the fluid to come out, even if it was a small drip I would be able to see it. When I squeezed the top glove it immediately got a stream of light pink fluid and it quickly turned into a clear stream. This confirmed my suspicion that the trans cooler is bad. I can now replace it with confidence that i actually need this part. Hopefully this will cure my transmission slipping issue.
And they told me it was impossible
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I started on the audio wiring today. When I started pulling off the tape this is what I found. There are many wires that don't connect to anything and just need to be removed, and many others that have been spliced and have an open live wire floating around.
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Wow, thats some mess there.
Once you work through the obvious wiring no-nos and wtf's, id suggest terminating the amp B+ cable(s) to the main battery switch, rather than battery direct.Mikes Liquid Audio: Knowledge Experience Customer Service you can trust-KICKER WetSounds ACME props FlyHigh Custom Ballast Clarion LiquidLumens LEDs Roswell Wave Deflector And More
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LOL, yeah, u take it one splice at a time and it can all come together.Originally posted by UNSTUCK View PostI'm sure you have chpthril breathing into a paper bag right now.


Mikes Liquid Audio: Knowledge Experience Customer Service you can trust-KICKER WetSounds ACME props FlyHigh Custom Ballast Clarion LiquidLumens LEDs Roswell Wave Deflector And More
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I have 3 sets of RCA cables the AUX is the red and the amp with speakers and sub was running on the grey so I am assuming that the black is a bass line only. What if I run the 6X9 and the round 6 off the head unit instead of the amp, and the tower speakers on one amp and the sub on the second amp.
Do you have a wiring diagram I cant seem to find one online
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The gray set is definitely the front right and left. The black is going to likely be rear/sub. Its very common for the black to be selectable between full range for rear speakers or low-pass for a woofer. So IMO, I would make sure the black rear is set to full pass and NOT sub or low pass.
With a single 4 chnl full range amp and mono amp. I would use the gray front RCA to the 4 chnl. A pair of splitters may be needed. Use the 4 chnl to drive the tower pods only. Use the black rear to the mono amp for the woofer. This leaves the two 6x9 and two 6.5 to be driven by the head unit, until a new 4 chnl can be installed. Of course, this is based on there being enough of the leads left to splice into for the speakers. If not, then you will need to wire all eight speakers to the 4 chnl amp.
Wiring for the head unit:
yellow = constant B+ (common post of the main battery switch same as amps)
black = ground with amps
red = switched B+ (either a rocker or key switch)
blue/wht = amp turn-on output
wht = front left speaker + and -
gray = front right + & -
purple = rear right + & -
green = rear left + & -
solid is + and BLK strip is -Mikes Liquid Audio: Knowledge Experience Customer Service you can trust-KICKER WetSounds ACME props FlyHigh Custom Ballast Clarion LiquidLumens LEDs Roswell Wave Deflector And More
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I got most of the trashed wires out of the way today and began getting the wiring harness put back together. Then got sick of sitting in the hole doing wires so I stained the deck.
I also talked to the upholstery shop today and they are supposed to be all done by noon tomorrow, ill have pics up when i get them back.
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While I was waiting for the upholstery to finish up today I had to change the tire on my bike it was a little sketchy but worked out well and now its safe!!!
Then I picked up the upholstery from the shop and this is how it turned out...
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I am pretty happy with the quality. The blue accent is not smooth it has a grippy but soft texture and I think it looks much better than the tired purple and grey it came with.
Unfortunately the boat is still full of tools and the oil cooler hasn't come in the mail yet so I am not going to install them until all the greasy work is done and I know the boat is running right and cleaned again. So this is how they are being stored for the the next few days.
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Still working slowly on the stereo, Wiring and electrical is my least favorite thing to do but it will get done early next week.Last edited by Goodtimes619; 09-10-2016, 03:21 AM.
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