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    Agreed. The market for used boats that are begging for aftermarket ballast upgrades is less and less as it a standard in the towboat industry for a while. Even less for guys that want to plumb an old boat to super exacting standards(put in a bag that fills ALL of a space, plumb it, and wire it).

    I guess I was just curious IF a guy like you who knew what he was doing, COULD add a CAN pair to be put into an older boat and have it talk to a module that could supply 12v + or - outputs. I guess where I get lost/confused is how much you can program a module to see an input on the CAN(ie a 0% or 100% input from your sensor) and have a module that can then provide a 12v output. Or is this not possible??

    Sorry to go down a rabbit hole again. Just like to collect info, and devote late night energy into absurd trains of thought. Thanks for the knowledge.
    Last edited by freeheel4life; 11-22-2018, 07:49 AM.

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      Originally posted by freeheel4life View Post
      I was just curious IF a guy like you who knew what he was doing, COULD add a CAN pair to be put into an older boat and have it talk to a module that could supply 12v + or - outputs. I guess where I get lost/confused is how much you can program a module to see an input on the CAN(ie a 0% or 100% input from your sensor) and have a module that can then provide a 12v output. Or is this not possible??
      Totally possible. I could Rube up a prototype of that in a day or so, using one of our existing devices, modifying the firmware, and adding a bit of circuitry to support the 12V relay coils.

      For example, our inclinometer is a little 2x2 inch PCB potted into a plastic enclosure. We could take one of those before potting, rev the firmware, and use dead-bug components and flying leads to bring out the signals. It already has the CAN interface hardware on board so it would be able to talk to the sensors on the boat.

      One-off prototypes aren't the challenge. The challenge is ramping that up into a production device that can work reliably for years. To get there, we'd have to add more connectors for the relay control signals, which means redesigning the PCB, probably a new (larger) enclosure, revised and tested firmware, then fresh SAE J1171 certification... you get the picture. Shade tree stuff is easy, but turning that into a complete professional product takes time and money.

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        Thanks for the info. Would be cool if there turns out to be a market for it. Would love to incorporate it into installs if ot were to ever happen.

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          Im soon to be a 07’ 24ve owner and curious if you still have any stock of these better switches laying around?

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            Originally posted by shauny2x View Post
            Im soon to be a 07’ 24ve owner and curious if you still have any stock of these better switches laying around?
            Yes, we keep them in stock. The order form can be downloaded here:

            http://waketouch.com/media/TigeOrderForm.pdf

            You can scan and email the order form, and use PayPal to send the funds. Once we receive both we generally ship within one business day and will send you an email with the tracking number.

            Thanks!

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              Just a heads up IDboating, i'm sending your info to the third person in less than 24 hours. Getting that time of year.
              Oh Yeah!

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                Originally posted by KoolAid View Post
                Just a heads up IDboating, i'm sending your info to the third person in less than 24 hours. Getting that time of year.
                Thank you so much! It's our honor to help keep these proud Tige boats working well. We sincerely appreciate working with you!

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                  Originally posted by KoolAid View Post
                  It's either the ECM or the Mini. The last guy that called is going to pull the mini out of his friends boat to test. I have seen them repaired by ECM reflash and others by a new MINI. It's very strange the marine power era boats are doing this.
                  I had this problem last year with my 09rz4 with pcm ex343, but it was intermittent. Anyone come up with a solution? If so what was the fix and cost? Seems to only happen when i am behind the boat. (Not really but that is when it is most annoying as I immediately notice when i am driving and put the rpms where they need to be.)


                  Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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                    Originally posted by trevor View Post
                    I had this problem last year with my 09rz4 with pcm ex343, but it was intermittent. Anyone come up with a solution? If so what was the fix and cost? Seems to only happen when i am behind the boat. (Not really but that is when it is most annoying as I immediately notice when i am driving and put the rpms where they need to be.)


                    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
                    Shoot me a message with you email address and I will send you some software that will fix it.
                    Oh Yeah!

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                      Your not kidding..........THAT TIME OF THE YEAR. THANK GOD FOR ID BOATING AND ALL HIS HARD WORK AND EFFORT.

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                        If we use paypal to PAY, what email address do we use??

                        Never mind......just now noticed it. Paypal@waketouch.com

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                          Thank you for your very kind comments! We're delighted to be helping the Tige community!

                          And yes, we have these panels in stock... you're right, it IS the busy season. The thermal cycling of winter storage is not kind to the original design. Lots of them fail when taken out of storage, or (worse) early in the season as temperatures warm back up.

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                            Just installed my new speedset board from ID boating. Super easy, affordable and it works great again. Question, if the top rubber is cracked, will this seep water and damage the board?? I used a clue to seal the crack, but we all know that's just a temporary fix.

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                              Originally posted by .NOBODY View Post
                              Just installed my new speedset board from ID boating. Super easy, affordable and it works great again.
                              That's what we like to hear!

                              Question, if the top rubber is cracked, will this seep water and damage the board?? I used a clue to seal the crack, but we all know that's just a temporary fix.
                              We've had a couple of users mention that theirs had cracked. Our recommendation is to gently apply a layer of clear, permanently flexible silicone (you can get small toothpaste-tube-sized containers) to the two mating surfaces of the crack. My personal suggestion was to cut off the fuzzy end of a Q-Tip and use the stick as an applicator. The trick is to cover both broken faces with silicone without smearing it all over the top and bottom faces of the black elastomer. Then just let the elastomer relax back to its normal shape, which should cause the two broken faces to touch and realign. Let it sit like that until the silicone is fully cured, and reassemble. Now you should have a watertight, sealed, yet still flexible elastomer sheet with little to no visible indication that anything was ever "wrong". Feedback from users says this approach works well, and we haven't had any subsequent reports of later failures.

                              Thanks!
                              Last edited by IDBoating; 05-15-2019, 06:55 PM.

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                                @IDBoating I just sent in an order to replace the touch pad in my 2007 Tige 20V... look forward to having cruise control work again!


                                Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

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