IDIOT MOVE: poked a hole through my transom

[lee]

Never drive a screw into the hull. Ever. For those precious few instances were you need to hardware-secure something to the hull, drill completely through and countersink the gelcoat and use a bolt and nut.

Really?

[dakota4ce]

Really?

Probably good advice, however the presence of approximately 25 factory placed screws into the hull back there lulled me to sleep. Now I am a little more cautious!
Shoot I don't really care all that much, I just thought the boneheaded-ness of it was amusing. I will fix and patch. Live and learn.

[IDBoating]

Probably good advice, however the presence of approximately 25 factory placed screws into the hull back there lulled me to sleep.

Yeah, which is why I mentioned it. They know with certainty where the hull is thick enough, or where they have glassed in a piece of Starboard to accept screws, etc. We do not. We can guess, but it's an awful risk. YMMV but I simply won't do it. There are plenty of alternatives that don't risk the integrity of the hull and gelcoat.

Note that this does not apply to things like the stringers, three surfaces of which aren't associated with the exterior of the hull. I have attached a lot of things to the stringers with no issues whatsoever.

[shawndoggy]

Will glass stick to starboard? I thought you had to use some kind of special hdpe glue for starboard.

[ericinmich]

I'm also with those who wouldn't screw directly into the hull. My Tiara has blocks fiberglassed or glued (5200) to the hull where anything is attached.

[dakota4ce]

I'm also with those who wouldn't screw directly into the hull. My Tiara has blocks fiberglassed or glued (5200) to the hull where anything is attached.

Would someone kindly loan me their time machine so I can go back and not drive this screw into my transom? Send it to South Dakota--they will find me.

[WYTige?]

Dakota,
I feel you're pain my friend. The perils of a DIYer.

[IDBoating]

Will glass stick to starboard? I thought you had to use some kind of special hdpe glue for starboard.

I've seen it glassed IN - in other words, the glass mechanically surrounds and secures it, not depending upon adhesion to the Starboard itself.

I've had good luck with this kevlar-reinforced activated epoxy that I found at an auto body supply store. Incredible stuff, sets in about 3-4 minutes, and becomes so hard that I swear you could tap and thread it (though I haven't). I'm away from home right now but will post a link if I remember later.

[JohnnieMo]

It sucks but don't beat yourself up over it. I drilled a hole through the hull of my last boat trying to mount an audio amplifier. Hell one time I drilled in to a friends gas tank. These stupid things happen.

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[dakota4ce]

It sucks but don't beat yourself up over it. I drilled a hole through the hull of my last boat trying to mount an audio amplifier. Hell one time I drilled in to a friends gas tank. These stupid things happen.

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LOL man I feel you. I will try about anything....but sometimes there are a couple bumps in the road. That is why I buy a 2006 24Ve and not a 2015 Z3 (oh and possibly the $70K price differential).

I can see it: "Do you smell gas? What the hell man, you drilled into my gas tank!"

[JohnnieMo]

The worst part was that the hole was inside the cab so the whole interior stunk like gas. Repairing it was treacherous.

I've got a laundry list of things like this. I should tell you about the first time I loaded my Z1. Truck, trailer and boat all needed repairs.

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[WYTige?]

The worst part was that the hole was inside the cab so the whole interior stunk like gas. Repairing it was treacherous.

I've got a laundry list of things like this. I should tell you about the first time I loaded my Z1. Truck, trailer and boat all needed repairs.

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That, I want to hear about.

[JohnnieMo]

Oh great.......

Well I have one of those precious Boatmate trailer's which weren't built right. There wasn't enough clearance between the prop guard and prop itself.

When I was demoing the boat the dealer showed me how to load it using a power loading technique. After buying i found that the very last load dinged the propeller. Power loading had the effect of thrusting the bow up and stern down, hence hitting the guard.

So being smarter than your average bear, I decided not to power load it but rather to put the trailer deeper in to the water and take the easy apprach. Being my first inboard and my first loading of it, I underestimated how hard this was. As a result the boat went right over the trailer and in to the truck.

At this point the tracking fins cut up the front bunk too and in essence 'high centered' the boat sideways on the bunk. Not to be out- done, in the middle of this I hit reverse.. What of course happened was the rear of the boat swung to starboard and slammed in to the rear bunk.

It took twenty minutes to nurse the boat off the mangled trailer and on to what was left of the bunks.

In the end I had a broken tail light on the truck, two damaged bunks, and a completely destroyed propeller. About $500 later i was back in action.

So learn from me. Don't do what 'Johnnie-Don't Does'.

I now have marks on my trailer guides showing the exact depth for my driver to achieve. I also always load under power (i.e. Quickly cycling from forward to neutral, with rapid steering corrections.)

No issues since.

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[WYTige?]

Oh man, that must have been brutal. Life at the ramp!

[Duncan]

So learn from me. Don't do what 'Johnnie-Don't Does'.

Well, that was an interesting morning read!