Did you have any work done on the geometry of the axles? If they are still off by 1/4" I would get that fixed first then see what affect that has on tire temp.
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A dragging break can cause excessive heat in one tire and non-functioning breaks on the other wheel(s) can leave the impression there is a problem with the one warm tire.Mikes Liquid Audio: Knowledge Experience Customer Service you can trust-KICKER WetSounds ACME props FlyHigh Custom Ballast Clarion LiquidLumens LEDs Roswell Wave Deflector And More
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Are you bearings grease or oil bath?
I discovered a seized up piston in one of my calipers last summer on my Extreme trailer. I went to change pads and one pad was completely worn down to nothing. Tried to push piston back and it wouldn't budge. UFP sent me a new caliper out for free along with bearing buddies to convert my oil baths to grease.
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You are correct but it won't work that's not the problem really to fully disengage the trailer breaks you'd have to disable the system all together. Getting a locking pin is designed to be used when backing into a garage/uphill and the breaks are locking up it stops the tongue (surge) from sliding to prevent applying break pressure, however if a break is stuck it won't disengage, however it will prevent the others from getting applied when slowing down. Hope that makes sense? having a tough time trying to explain thisOriginally posted by Duncan View PostYou should have (or can get) a lock out pin that disengages the surge brakes.
to fully be able to tell if the break is dragging on one tire why not jack the trailer up get axle up off the ground and spin the tires by hand and see what you feel? Just a suggestion not sure it will truly help but maybe able to help narrow down the problem. If one is looser (spins more freely) than you have an issue of breaks or bearing to work with.
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Originally posted by rensink View PostYou are correct but it won't work that's not the problem really to fully disengage the trailer breaks you'd have to disable the system all together. Getting a locking pin is designed to be used when backing into a garage/uphill and the breaks are locking up it stops the tongue (surge) from sliding to prevent applying break pressure, however if a break is stuck it won't disengage, however it will prevent the others from getting applied when slowing down. Hope that makes sense? having a tough time trying to explain this
to fully be able to tell if the break is dragging on one tire why not jack the trailer up get axle up off the ground and spin the tires by hand and see what you feel? Just a suggestion not sure it will truly help but maybe able to help narrow down the problem. If one is looser (spins more freely) than you have an issue of breaks or bearing to work with.
Using the lock out pin could eliminate the possibility of one or more non-functional brakes increasing work on the hot wheel. With no surge brakes, if the wheel in question still gets hot, the problem is not faulty brakes on the other wheels; if it does not get hot, then faulty brakes may be an issue (or the problem is not brake related).
I agree it is not the best diagnostic -- I was just answering the direct question
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Tigé Jedi- Feb 2004
- 5529
- St. George, Utah
- 2021 Ri237, 2019 25 LSV, 2016+2015 G23, Malibu 247, X45, 2005 24V, 2002 21V
It seems to spin freely when jacked up.
These are grease bearings.
I have a feeling that something is bent in the torsion axle, or it was welded improperly in the first place. I am just not sure who to contact. I think the boat dealership would do fine with bearings and brakes, but with the wheel spinning freely, I think I am smarter to pursue the alignment/geometry. And the boat dealer is really not prepared for that. We have a trailer part distributor in my town, I suspect they might know who to send me to. I am hoping that someone who works there would have a good feel for who might be the best trailer people in town. On a side note, this town has one industry: construction. And every one of those guys it seems has an enclosed cargo trailer full of tools. Hopefully some of them operate similar setups.Be excellent to one another.
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Tigé Jedi- Feb 2004
- 5529
- St. George, Utah
- 2021 Ri237, 2019 25 LSV, 2016+2015 G23, Malibu 247, X45, 2005 24V, 2002 21V
Originally posted by talltigeguy View Post
I just got a sweet set of Tire pressure monitor sensors installed....
Bummer, I had hoped that this problem had gone away.That is why we pick on Nobody around here.Originally posted by Nobody View PostWhatever the outcome, get a set of TPM's for your boat trailer.
I bought Orange Electroncs after market set for $100 bucks on Amazon.
Be excellent to one another.
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Mike, that is a great thought. With all the attention to the hot tire and not looking at the others. It may be the hot one is the only one with stopping power. Does your trailer have brakes on both axles, or just the front? Have you taken a look at the other sides brakes? A leaking seal could have thrown some grease oil on the rotors and caked the pads.Originally posted by chpthril View PostA dragging break can cause excessive heat in one tire and non-functioning breaks on the other wheel(s) can leave the impression there is a problem with the one warm tire.
I'm not sure if you brakes are oil bathed or greased, but it shouldn't be too hard to pull the bearings out and inspect them. Even if your bearings are fine that excessive temperature could have adverse effects on the grease or oil.
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Guys, I may have a line on this system. I got Larry one of the Sun Pro's at a very reasonable price. Let me work on the details to see what I can get for you. It may take me a day or two to get it worked out. I promise the price is better than any where else if I can get it worked out.Originally posted by TeamAllenLarry, which TPM system did you chose?www.automarinecare.com CWB, ACME, FlyHigh, Merc Marine, PCM, Marine-power, WETSOUNDS, HSE Volume Controls, Kicker, Sony, Samson Sports, and many other marine parts or accessory's.
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