Ballast tanks overflowing when listed to one side

[chpthril]

I guess we have a different idea of what a fix is. IMO, having a season old boat in the 100K range and having to plug and unplug a ballast outlet, is not a fix. A fix is actually resolving the issue so the captain can sit in the captains chair and fill, drive and drain. Plugging the holes stops the leak, but sorry, it aint a fix.

As to elevated's reference to check valves, he didnt use mine.

[Germaine Marine]

I guess we have a different idea of what a fix is. IMO, having a season old boat in the 100K range and having to plug and unplug a ballast outlet, is not a fix. A fix is actually resolving the issue so the captain can sit in the captains chair and fill, drive and drain. Plugging the holes stops the leak, but sorry, it aint a fix.

As to elevated's reference to check valves, he didnt use mine.

Running a ton of hose in the boat and taking up room isnt a fix for me, so again agree to disagree. The venting isnt the only problem in the boats its the drain as well. Only real fix is what MIKE? Long hose up the sides, looped and back correct? Yeah I aint about that life. I put the plugs in the boat while on the ramp and take them out when we are done. Simple simple.



I said I didn't use yours Mike in my post and actually said they were probably legit. I never received the ones you reached out and asked me to try.

Want to run hose and try and fix an issue that Mike said himself has been a long problem? great! . Want to run plugs? great too!

[Germaine Marine]

I guess we have a different idea of what a fix is. IMO, having a season old boat in the 100K range and having to plug and unplug a ballast outlet, is not a fix. A fix is actually resolving the issue so the captain can sit in the captains chair and fill, drive and drain. Plugging the holes stops the leak, but sorry, it aint a fix.

As to elevated's reference to check valves, he didnt use mine.

I referenced in my post that I had not tried yours. You mentioned wanting me to try a set that you wanted feedback on, never heard anything else.....

[freeheel4life]

Sounds like both have valid points. I'm with Mike though in that if I paid this much for a boat I certainly wouldn't expect to have to install ball valves and use expansion plugs every time I filled up. If I had installed my own ballast and had these issues then fine. Tige pays engineers for this exact reason, turns out maybe they were off the mark. I'm sure moving thru hull above the rub rail would eliminate or are least lessen the problem. I'm sure they aren't doing it because then they have to finish plumbing after top cap gets mated to hull.
Seems like the only real solution is to move vents to the front. Yes running hose up the gunnels after the fact would be a bit of a pain...but I think a guy with some knowledge could handle job in four hours and still have it come out clean. Reversibles would help as well but that's just my opinion. Certainly haven't seen water make it's way thru jabscos passively like an aerator will.

[Germaine Marine]

FYI, You dont have to ball valve anything if you dont want too, I like it because the ability for me to control air in and out of the bag makes a complete drain of the bag executable every time. But again, not saying its right or wrong, it works great for me and is SUREFIRE.

[chpthril]

If the passive draining is through the vent system pump style will not make a difference. If the passive draining is through the fill or drain, then absolutely a reversible of an aerator will stop it.

@ Jason,

After explaining to you that I was confident that we could address the issue with check valves, you purchased a different style from my competitor. They didnt work for you, sorry. After offering latter to send you a couple to try, you were lukewarm on the idea and seemed content with manual valves and plugs. You posted 3 reposes that reaffirm this position.

[Germaine Marine]

If the passive draining is through the vent system pump style will not make a difference. If the passive draining is through the fill or drain, then absolutely a reversible of an aerator will stop it.

@ Jason,

After explaining to you that I was confident that we could address the issue with check valves, you purchased a different style from my competitor. They didnt work for you, sorry. After offering latter to send you a couple to try, you were lukewarm on the idea and seemed content with manual valves and plugs. You posted 3 reposes that reaffirm this position.

I dont think I ever talked to you about ballast in my boat early on Mike, you are confusing me with someone else... had no idea you even did anything with ballast previous to the reunion. im going to pm you, no reason for this here but their is clearly some weird miscommunication...

[freeheel4life]

FYI, You dont have to ball valve anything if you dont want too, I like it because the ability for me to control air in and out of the bag makes a complete drain of the bag executable every time. But again, not saying its right or wrong, it works great for me and is SUREFIRE.

So you were only losing water thru vents and none thru your drain pumps??

[chpthril]

i like it because the ability for me to control air in and out of the bag makes a complete drain of the bag executable every time.

A check valve in the vent line lets NO air back in while in drain mode. They really help in an aerator pump setup. The right check valve can hold a slight amount of water pressure in the sac, as in not allowing passive drain flow. Flapper style can stay open due to "muscle memory" and wont close unless there is positive pressure back against them. this is why a flapper c/v does not work against passive draining on the vent or drain lines.

as originally stated, first is isolating the route of the passive draining. There can be different methods depending on the path.

[Germaine Marine]

I was losing it through the drains and the vents. I was implying you wouldnt have to valve anything and just plug the two holes on each side if you wanted. I chose to ball valve my vent for the reason listed above. Or you could just re plumb the boat. I just know that there has been and most likely will be some guess work when it comes to check valves and there operation short term and long term. Like I said in one of the first posts of the thread and Ill say it again, Mike talked to me in Nov and said he was experimenting with some new valves, we never got on the same page and I never had a change to try those. He says they are good to go and thats probably a great option. For me I needed a fix before then and this has worked amazing for me since the reunion, with no issues and no work or changing of the boat..... Different strokes for different folks.

[chpthril]

The check valve design was not new, been using them for about 8 years now. What was new, was that they finally did them in a 1.125" version, which was the current size ballast hose on a tige. Valve is proven, just didnt have it to fit the tige boats using 1.125" hose till last fall. Used them on a Bu with similar issue, had great results.