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    Ballast tanks overflowing when listed to one side

    I just bought my first surf/wakeboard boat, 2017 R22, so I apologize if this is a silly question but when I fill the tanks up and then use the TAPS to list the boat to one side or the other, the ballast tanks empty out the side. After 15 or 20 minutes of surfing the tank will lose probably a quarter of it's water and I'll have to refill. Has anyone figured out a better way to plumb the overflow so that this doesn't happen? I was thinking just to run the overflow pipes to the opposite side (ie starboard tank to the port side overflow, and visa-versa) but apparently that would create a venting issue? Not sure why but that's what I've been told.

    I'm wondering if anyone has come up with other solutions?

    #2
    Passive draining is not a new issue. we've been dealing with it for about 10 years now, since we started installing large tall custom sacs in boats for surfing. Crossing the vents typically does not create venting problems, however, I am not intimate with the 2017 R22 plumbing. First thing that needs to be done in any case of passive draining, is isolate the passive draining to which of the 3 plumbing paths, full, drain and/or vent. It can be one, two or all three. Once the path, or paths, of passive draining are confirmed, you can then implement a solution. These very with the plumbing.

    Is this ballast 100% Tige OEM or is it part OEM and part dealer/customer installed sacs into plug-n-play plumbing?
    Mikes Liquid Audio: Knowledge Experience Customer Service you can trust-KICKER WetSounds ACME props FlyHigh Custom Ballast Clarion LiquidLumens LEDs Roswell Wave Deflector And More

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      #3
      Thank you and that's interesting that the manufactures haven't come up with a standard fix for this on their boats. This is the ballast directly from the factory, not the dealer so I believe it is the Tige OEM. It was what Tige calls their "Surf+Wake XL Ballast"

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        #4
        Mike has knowledge far beyond me, however I had some issues with this and I put check valves on my overflow and fill lines and problem solved.

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          #5
          Until you can find a solution to the issue, you can simply leave your fill pump run. This will keep your sacs full but you will always have water flowing out the overflow. We did this for a while on one of our boats until we could get the materials and time to cross vent.
          "I think I am pretty smart for an idiot"

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            #6
            Thanks everyone, I think I'm going to go try to cross vent it and then if I need some check valves I'll certainly put those in. I'll let everyone know if it works.

            Thanks again,
            Chris

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              #7
              Easiest fix.... Two expansion plugs. Two seconds and you are ready to surf with no chance of water draining out.

              Cross venting on taps 3 boats with the rears equally full does no good, its counter productive. Check valves suck, mike said he had some new ones I was going to try out for him but I havent had my hands on them yet. Could be legit.

              The best fix for me was this... Ball valve the vents and expansion plug the drains. Drop the boat in the water run the plugs in, fill bags, open hatch and valve the vent closed when you start to vent as they top off. litterally 10 seconds of work and its bullet proof
              Last edited by Germaine Marine; 06-02-2017, 09:57 PM.
              Germaine Marine
              "A proud dealer of Tige, Supra, Moomba and ATX performance boats"

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                #8
                Originally posted by clamutt View Post
                Thanks everyone, I think I'm going to go try to cross vent it and then if I need some check valves I'll certainly put those in. I'll let everyone know if it works.

                Thanks again,
                Chris

                Dont cross vent a taps 3 boat.... No point. Think of what you are trying to accomplish......... In a listed setup it is absolutely the way to go. Taps 3 with bags all full you are still gonna lose water, just will be the other bag now.

                Dont leave the pumps on either........No reason to do that.
                Germaine Marine
                "A proud dealer of Tige, Supra, Moomba and ATX performance boats"

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                  #9
                  You can cross vent and drain running longer hose up the gunnels, It just isnt worth the work or the chance it still will bleed a little in my opinion.
                  Germaine Marine
                  "A proud dealer of Tige, Supra, Moomba and ATX performance boats"

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                    #10
                    Originally posted by elevatedconcept View Post
                    Easiest fix.... Two expansion plugs. Two seconds and you are ready to surf with no chance of water draining out.

                    Cross venting on taps 3 boats with the rears equally full does no good, its counter productive. Check valves suck, mike said he had some new ones I was going to try out for him but I havent had my hands on them yet. Could be legit.

                    The best fix for me was this... Ball valve the vents and expansion plug the drains. Drop the boat in the water run the plugs in, fill bags, open hatch and valve the vent closed when you start to vent as they top off. litterally 10 seconds of work and its bullet proof
                    Are the drain and vent still y'd together to the same thru hull? If so, you would not need the expansion plug, you could just add in a shut off valve after the Y and it would open/close both together.

                    Sent from my VS995 using Tapatalk
                    "I think I am pretty smart for an idiot"

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                      #11
                      IMO, plugging the vent and/or drain outlets is a diagnostic step, not a fix. I would also seek a better resolution then manual ball valves in the offending plumbing.

                      FIRST AND FOREMOST, I would not alter the plumbing until the source or sources of the passive draining is isolated. But as they say, you can mead a horse to water, but you cant make it drink.

                      Since 2006, to my knowledge, tige has never shared a through for the vent and drain. They have always had their own outlet on the OEM ballast. Custom ballast is different though, you may find them sharing an outlet.
                      Mikes Liquid Audio: Knowledge Experience Customer Service you can trust-KICKER WetSounds ACME props FlyHigh Custom Ballast Clarion LiquidLumens LEDs Roswell Wave Deflector And More

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                        #12
                        Elevated,
                        By expansion plugs do you mean these guys??
                        http://m.autozone.com/external-engin...170603000210:s

                        Get why you are saying pointless to xvent on a TAPS3 boat, but in theory once surf plates take over boat is still of axis even though ballast is weighted evenly. In theory wouldn't xventing help alleviate the problem?? I know bag that would be in the hole wouldnt leak but im guessing you are saying high side bag will still drain even when xvented. If that didn't do it, what do you think about tying the rear vents into front bag vents/drains since surfing is always going to put front vents high??
                        Last edited by freeheel4life; 06-03-2017, 12:12 AM.

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                          #13
                          I was guessing he was talking about the marine rubber drain plugs like this. I could very well be wrong.
                          https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000AZAOW...a-273162463569


                          Sent from my VS995 using Tapatalk
                          "I think I am pretty smart for an idiot"

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Originally posted by Dandy View Post
                            I was guessing he was talking about the marine rubber drain plugs like this. I could very well be wrong.
                            https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000AZAOW...a-273162463569


                            Sent from my VS995 using Tapatalk
                            Either will work but the ones Dandy linked are what I use.

                            Opinions are like you know whats but to me plugging the thru hole is the only sure fire no guessing way to eliminate water bleed. Its easy, I dont have to run new hoses full length up the boat gunnels to hope for a fix.

                            I know Chp has been doing it a while but ill respectfully disagree in it being a diagnostic step not a fix as well as the ball valves in the vents. They in tandem work fantastic as well as the bags being awesome in the drain department. The vacuum themselves when draining and if some water is left I open the valve let some air in the vent and hit drain again and the bags are bone dry.

                            Different strokes, I dont think their is a (Right) way.
                            Germaine Marine
                            "A proud dealer of Tige, Supra, Moomba and ATX performance boats"

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Originally posted by freeheel4life View Post
                              Elevated,
                              By expansion plugs do you mean these guys??
                              http://m.autozone.com/external-engin...170603000210:s

                              Get why you are saying pointless to xvent on a TAPS3 boat, but in theory once surf plates take over boat is still of axis even though ballast is weighted evenly. In theory wouldn't xventing help alleviate the problem?? I know bag that would be in the hole wouldnt leak but im guessing you are saying high side bag will still drain even when xvented. If that didn't do it, what do you think about tying the rear vents into front bag vents/drains since surfing is always going to put front vents high??
                              Ive X vented, X drained, check valved and tried almost everything aside from tying into the fronts which I knew was the only real way to fix the issue. To me its not remotely worth the time, all the hose running all over the boat etc. I want everything clean and clear and easily accessible.

                              Ill say it again despite some not agreeing, save the time, leave it factory and plug the thru holes.

                              FYI had Tige merely moved the thru holes above the rub rail the extra 5-7 inches would solve the problem.

                              I am pretty certain its why the RZX series is in the top cap..... I wouldnt be surprised if the Z series or all boats go to that as well.
                              Last edited by Germaine Marine; 06-04-2017, 05:56 PM.
                              Germaine Marine
                              "A proud dealer of Tige, Supra, Moomba and ATX performance boats"

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