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    Winter project has started

    Decided to mount the thru hulls for venting and draining for both front and rear sacks toward the front, 2 on each side, and a 1 1/4" thru hull to a manifold to feed 3 impeller style pumps.
    Attached Files

    #2
    The thickness on the bottom was 1/4", and for the venting/draining location it was 11/16"
    Attached Files

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      #3
      Nice work.

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        #4
        Nice, having those thru-hulls further forward is going to help a lot. Are you also going to cross your lines over to the opposite side?
        WakeMAKERS.com | WakePROPS.com

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          #5
          Originally posted by jason@wakemakers.com View Post
          Nice, having those thru-hulls further forward is going to help a lot. Are you also going to cross your lines over to the opposite side?
          IMHO, if your drains and vents are forward you don't need to also cross over. One or the other is sufficient. Just my opinion....

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            #6
            I agree, one or the other is usually sufficient.
            WakeMAKERS.com | WakePROPS.com

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              #7
              Originally posted by jason@wakemakers.com View Post
              I agree, one or the other is usually sufficient.
              ...and if we accept that, then crossing over just adds more hose and increases the frictional losses, thus taking longer to drain the sac(s).

              I'd do one or the other. And putting my money where my mouth is, I did the forward thruhulls and kept the hoses shorter.

              Either way, though, the cool part is doing the project in the first place. I absolutely love this stuff!

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                #8
                Originally posted by WABoating View Post
                ...and if we accept that, then crossing over just adds more hose and increases the frictional losses, thus taking longer to drain the sac(s).
                I Disagree that crossing left to right with the hoses adds length and friction as compared to running to the forward mid-ship storage. Ive done both. Here's an example to put it into perspective: it takes about 22ft of battery cable to go from the battery of a Tige 22Ve to the wall of the port mid-ship storage. The beam is only 108" and is actually narrower at the stern.

                Both work fine, so its splitting hairs.
                Mikes Liquid Audio: Knowledge Experience Customer Service you can trust-KICKER WetSounds ACME props FlyHigh Custom Ballast Clarion LiquidLumens LEDs Roswell Wave Deflector And More

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                  #9
                  Originally posted by jason@wakemakers.com View Post
                  Nice, having those thru-hulls further forward is going to help a lot. Are you also going to cross your lines over to the opposite side?
                  I dont plan on crossing lines to the opposite side. I decided to run the thru hulls forward instead of crossing lines i hope it was the right decision. I do plan on using 1 thru hull to drain and vent using a check valve and a tee.

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                    #10
                    HEY CHPTHRIL can you tell me what issues you had when using the fly high check valves with impeller pumps? Is the problem solved using your duck bill style? If so I might need to get some of those duck bill valves from you.

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                      #11
                      Originally posted by adamsjstt View Post
                      HEY CHPTHRIL can you tell me what issues you had when using the fly high check valves with impeller pumps? Is the problem solved using your duck bill style? If so I might need to get some of those duck bill valves from you.
                      PM sent in regards to the check-valves.
                      Mikes Liquid Audio: Knowledge Experience Customer Service you can trust-KICKER WetSounds ACME props FlyHigh Custom Ballast Clarion LiquidLumens LEDs Roswell Wave Deflector And More

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                        #12
                        Working on the manifold. I plan on running a couple pieces of 2" pvc under the tees down to the hull to help with supporting the weight of the pumps and glue it down with liquid nails. I still havent received my pumps but i measured everthing and this should work. There is a steady uphill flow from the ball valve to the last 90 then i will tilt the tees up slightly as well. Hows it look?
                        Attached Files

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                          #13
                          It looks titties man. Very clean. Keep it rollin.
                          You'll get your chance, smart guy.

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                            #14
                            Definitely looking good. Be really careful with your elevation and that monotonically increasing height, as you described. You've got a lot of distance between the outer hull surface and that last pump.

                            Love the photos, keep 'em coming!

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Looks very good. You have given me a good idea of starting point and layout. I will be so intersted in the progress.

                              chptril what kind and where should the check valves be placed in a system like this? What are the "duckbill"type?

                              Also has anyone used a coupler after the valve and before the manifold ? This seems like a good idea in case one has to remove the manifolf or valve and thru hull for some reason for servise or replacement. This would help eleminate having to cut things up. Just a thought. ???
                              Wake Up or Stay On Shore!

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