Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

24Ve maximum ballast writeup...

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

    24Ve maximum ballast writeup...

    As mentioned elsewhere, we bought a new 24Ve last fall and started to modify it for ballasting early this spring. We finally launched it in late June and have been so busy having fun and learning to wakesurf (with lots of family and friends) that I never wrote up what we did.

    Duffy's writeup thread set the standard, so I'm going to follow in his footsteps and add sections over a period of time.

    A quick note of thanks to everyone here who chimed in with answers and suggestions when I asked questions. A special thanks goes to ChpThril, who is always willing to share his extensive knowledge. An extra special thanks must go to Jason at WakeMakers, who tolerated numerous phone calls and emails as I came up with crazy/insane ideas and needed a sounding board; he was always willing to overnight fat sac fittings and components to me on short notice. Another extra special thanks to Harvey Smith at Tige in Abilene, who also tolerated calls and emails about the 24Ve's design and provided engineering drawings and other technical data that proved invaluable.

    A while back, I mentioned that I wanted a designated tow point for inflatables. My 24Ve didn't come with one, but others had asked Tige's grab handle fabricator to build one with an integrated tow point. This requires an extra two holes in the transom to accommodate the bolts the come off the towing eye. When I looked at cutting those two holes, I found that the battery isolator had been mounted centered and directly behind the grab handle:



    Thus to install the integrated handle/towring, I'd have to relocate the battery isolator. Initially, I planned to mount the isolator on a piece of Starboard that was epoxied to the transom:



    However, as I started focusing on the ballast system, I realized that if I were going to concentrate the ballast as far rearward as possible - and maximize its volume - I would be modifying the entire transom area and engine compartment. I decided to make the isolator part of that overall redesign, and the Starboard came back off the transom.

    The 24Ve's rear storage lockers use carpeted walls to create a "rectangular" space. Behind this space hides the batteries, TAPS pump, etc. Below the floor hides either the factory hard ballast tanks or foam blocks to support the floor.

    That's a LOT of wasted space, right where you want to concentrate your ballast. For example, here's a shot of the port side factory rear locker wall (after I had added a second battery switch for the house battery):



    If that wall and everything behind it could be removed, and the floor and everything beneath THAT removed, the ballast could extend all the way to the transom itself. But where to relocate the batteries, TAPS pump, battery isolator, etc.?

    Many people relocate their batteries forward, under the side seat cushions. But this is counterproductive because those batteries have a lot of lead (read: weight) in them and the whole point of ballasting is to put weight in the rear of the boat.

    There is, however, a nice big open space available in the rear of the boat... right behind the engine (this photo skips ahead a bit with respect to the removal of the locker walls, locker floors, and foam support blocks but I'll cover that in a later installment):



    This photo looks a little confused, but the fact is that there is a lot of space there. Importantly, the engine stringers (which by definition are very strong) run right back to this area. If some method could be found to rotate the corner contents (batteries, TAPS pump, etc.) back behind the engine, we could use this space productively and open up all that corner volume for massive amounts of completely hidden ballast.

    The two engine stringers form a planar surface that could accommodate a shelf-like structure. Then, looking to the left of the lower stringer in the photograph, you can see where the blower originally mounted to the transom. Tige glasses in some extra material there so the blower can be screwed to the transom. There are similar mounting surfaces in several other locations across the transom. Instead of the original components, these surfaces could be mount points for shelf supports. A properly cut and shaped shelf could be used to hold everything that needs to move out of the corners.

    The two big concerns here are clearance to the front of the engine with its moving parts, and temperature since the engine will heat this space to around 160F. The former is a matter of careful design and placement. The latter really isn't much different than the original factory layout, since all the components already shared a common airspace with the engine.

    To get started, I cut some pieces of 1.5 inch stainless angle. One was used to act as a primary shelf support, transferring the weight of the batteries to the engine stringers. The others were used as transom supports for the rear edge of the shelf:



    Using its transom mount for the shelf obviously meant the blower had to move. Federal regulations require that the blower's intake be in the lower 1/3rd of the lowest compartment in which fuel vapors may congregate. Measurements showed that mounting the blower directly through the shelf, such that its intake was in the space under the shelf, satisfied this requirement.

    Next, I built a prototype shelf out of some scrap particle board:



    The factory battery trays and TAPS mounting plate were relocated to this shelf. A hole was cut for the blower, and a template sketched for approximate isolator location.

    Once the details were worked out, a final shelf was cut from a piece of Starboard:



    The battery straps are now in place, a clamp has been added to control battery cable routing, and holes have been tapped to accommodate the isolator. The aluminum channels on either side are there to hold the bottom edge of new, additional engine divider walls to support the fat sacs on either side.

    When the shelf and all components were installed, the result looked like this from the starboard side:



    ...and from the port side:



    This latter photo shows one of the new engine divider walls that rest in the aluminum channels on the battery shelf. The two battery switches have been moved to this new wall since the original locker rear wall is gone.

    Here are shots of the ballast space on either side of the new battery shelf. The new starboard engine divider wall is in place (wires and such have not yet been dressed out in these photos):




    Note that the absolute rear and bottom of the hull is now visible. Custom fat sacs can be built to fill this ENTIRE volume, which is much larger than the standard 24Ve locker. More about those in a later installment.

    More soon... thanks!
    Last edited by IDBoating; 08-21-2011, 08:39 PM.

    #2
    Nicely Done WAB
    "Failing to prepare is preparing to fail" John Wooden- Rest in Peace

    Comment


      #3
      I got to see the final product today, very impressive! Nice job WAB!
      2009 RZ2, PCM 343, MLA Surf Ballast, Premium Sound.
      2013 Toyota Sequoia 4WD W/Timbren SES

      Comment


        #4
        Originally posted by majestic
        So if I understand it right you tore out the locker floor and will be installing custom sacs to fill the whole locker? It sounds awesome but after seeing Ragboy's new Wakemakers install in his 24 Ve you would sink the corner way over the rub rail. If that's what your shooting for than cool but your platform in stock form is going to distort your wake really bad IMHO.
        It didn't work out that way. The custom sacs, which are over ten feet long each, can be filled in two different configurations based upon what we're trying to do. Sinking the stern all the way down to the rub rail, plus (interestingly) adding a few hundred pounds to the other side's locker, gives us a very tall and very long wave that's green and smooth. The stock swim platform works very nicely. I'll post photos and video at a later date.

        Comment


          #5
          Originally posted by Ewok View Post
          I got to see the final product today, very impressive! Nice job WAB!
          Thanks! We're looking forward to surfing it with you next weekend!

          Comment


            #6
            How hard is it to get to the grease fitting on the rudder port?

            Comment


              #7
              Originally posted by WABoating View Post
              It didn't work out that way. The custom sacs, which are over ten feet long each, can be filled in two different configurations based upon what we're trying to do. Sinking the stern all the way down to the rub rail, plus (interestingly) adding a few hundred pounds to the other side's locker, gives us a very tall and very long wave that's green and smooth. The stock swim platform works very nicely. I'll post photos and video at a later date.
              I'll be excited t see them heck I have boards and will travel

              Comment


                #8
                Originally posted by dom w. forte View Post
                How hard is it to get to the grease fitting on the rudder port?
                An excellent question! It's actually easier than stock during normal winterization. I gave a lot of consideration to maintenance and ease of access while dreaming up this whole scheme of moving things out of the corners to behind the engine.

                The two new engine dividers are held in by a single screw at the top, then they simply lift out of the aluminum channel at the bottom. The battery shelf is held in by one screw into each stringer, and one bolt into each of the two side transom brackets. The center transom bracket doesn't have a fastener, as it's there solely as a weight support. The whole thing comes out in less than 10 minutes start to finish. (I can probably do it in five minutes now since I installed and removed them countless times while I tweaked and tuned the details of this portion of the project!)

                Once out, I have wide-open access to everything. Since the locker floors are gone, you are also at hull level back there. You can basically climb behind the engine. This makes access much more convenient. For example, reinstalling the raw water pump and its new impeller in the spring was WAY easier than removing them last fall because I wasn't working around the locker walls and floor any longer. I was looking straight at the front of the engine, with the raw water pump at eye level, all of its screw holes visible and easily accessed with tools. Take a look at how wide-open everything is in this photo - and it's just as open from the other side, too:



                I had earlier asked KKO at your shop how the heck you guys reach that grease fitting on the rudder. I envisioned climbing through the starboard TAPS pump access door, etc. Now, it's no problem at all - I could touch it with my nose if desired!

                All engine stringer walls are independently removable, too. If I need to get to front of the engine, I need only remove the new panels, and so forth.

                By the way, access to the bilge pump and its filter, which might be necessary in the middle of the season, is possible without removing anything. The stringers end before the transom, leaving a nice space through which your hand can fit. Unsnap the pump, pull the filter, clean it, and reassemble.

                Keep the questions coming... thanks!
                Last edited by IDBoating; 08-22-2011, 04:26 PM.

                Comment


                  #9
                  Originally posted by majestic View Post
                  I'll be excited t see them heck I have boards and will travel
                  You're always welcome to join us! We continue to play and tune and experiment. We've been running this system for about two months now since dropping the boat in the water in June. We've learned a lot but research continues and the more riders/wavetuners, the better!

                  Ewok dropped by our lake yesterday with his beautiful blue-white RZ2 and is planning a return visit next weekend. He suggested a Tige mini-reunion for the region... if you were here that would be three Tiges at the same house. Does that qualify as a reunion? {grin}
                  Last edited by IDBoating; 08-22-2011, 04:27 PM.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Nice work. In an earlier thread you mentioned about getting the factory ballast switches. Is that what you ended up using? Where did you get those? How were they to hook up? Any pictures?

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Originally posted by skippabcool View Post
                      Nice work. In an earlier thread you mentioned about getting the factory ballast switches. Is that what you ended up using? Where did you get those? How were they to hook up? Any pictures?
                      No, I used the CarlingSwitch paddle switches. WakeMakers carries them, and I'll bet ChpThril does too. They don't quite look OEM since they don't exactly match the other switches on my boat, but I think the console turned out nice.

                      BTW, the WakeMakers wiring diagram for the switches was backward. I ohmed out a switch ahead of time and then looked at the diagram. They didn't match, so I trusted my meter (always trust your instruments!) and wired it up my way. It worked properly the first time. I've notified Jason at WakeMakers and he says they'll correct their documentation.

                      Photos of the console will follow, as I continue adding to this thread.

                      Comment


                        #12
                        What made you decide not to use the factory? Do you have the part number and cost to the factory ones?

                        Comment


                          #13
                          What made you decide on the batteries in the middle instead of in the observer compartment? I would have done the same wall move on my boat but I needed to hide the massive pumps. Great writeup!
                          Build thread: http://www.tigeowners.com/forum/showthread.php?14787-Duffy-s-2005-24v-wakesurfing-mod-thread&highlight=duffys+24v

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Great stuff, how much room was there under the floor to the hull?
                            http://wake9.com/

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Originally posted by skippabcool View Post
                              What made you decide not to use the factory? Do you have the part number and cost to the factory ones?
                              I researched buying the entire factory 24Ve switch panel, which was really expensive, but never looked into just the switches themselves. Then it was just easier to grab the CarlingSwitch units.

                              Comment

                              Working...
                              X