From the Lake to the Ocean!

[jmitchell]

Well, I'm less than a week from our vacation to California where I'll be attempting to ocean surf for the first time. So excited it's hard to sleep at night.

Any pointers for those that have ocean surfed? What size of board to get...long board, short board, both? I would say I'm probably an intermediate skill wakesurfer if that helps (almost landing 3's...vid to follow shortly).

Any surfing etiquette in the water I should be aware of?

Thanks

[Fiveflat]

What area are you going to? Hopefully southern Calif. The surf up north (Santa Cruz and north) is pretty pathetic.

With that said, swells are going to be anywhere from 3-6ft and if you have never gotten up to your feet from your belly on a surfboard you'll have a bit of a try getting it done. So I would suggest trying a long board at first. If you get the hang of it pretty quickly, I'm sure they'll let you trade up to a shorter board but I wouldn't get on anything less than 6ft. I don't think - all depends on how well you pick it up.

[Fiveflat]

As far as etiquette goes... If there are a lot of locals and you are a beginner, don't get in their way when a really nice wave comes along.

[D&P Powell]

I agree with Five's comments... he's steering you right - but I would add one little note... When selectnig a board, it's kinda like choosing a ski/wakeboard in that it also depends on your size. My two cents, go with a long board (6.5 - 7.5) as a beginner, and you can't go wrong. Also, to reemphasize what Five said - just stay out of the locals way - surfers can be VERY territorial. Good Luck.

[KonaKing]

LONG LONG LONG 10 to 12 feet LONG. For your first time it wont matter about wave size. you will be looking for small mushy wave anyways. Take a lesson if you can. Learning to catch the wave is the key. Paddle paddle paddle then pop. Which means start paddling sooner than you think to catch the wave then when you feel it pick you up and accelerate pop from the laying position to the standing position in one smooth motion dont stop in between, while always keeping your head and eyes looking up and forward.

There now you know how to surf. This is exactly what an instructor will tell you but he will also be there to get you into a wave.

Be careful it's very addicting. I started very young in high school and have never let it go. Even though I live in Utah for the skiing I am at the cost 4 or 5 times a year and we take an annual trip to Hawaii every Dec, hence the name KonaKing.

[Timmy!]

What Kona said...the hardest part isn't the surfing, it's the art of catching the wave and paddling! You can prepare by swimming every day until you go. Your arms and abs will be tired after about an hour to two of trying to catch your first waves. Wear a rash guard too...

[Booms]

So I take it you have never ocean surfed before. I would reccomend taking lessons. With an instructor they also know all the locals and can get you in the line for sets, once you get to that point.
I did the same in March of this year. Went from behind the boat to ocean surfing. I paid for an instructor for 2 lessons per day for 5 days and it was worth it. There is a proper way to go from laying down to standing up that will take practice to master. The proper way to paddle is also important, with out these two things you will never catch a wave.
By the end of day one I was the only one paddling and catching/riding intermediate waves becuase of the practice behind the boat.

You do not want to start with the out sets. Stay in the inside (white wash) until you get your form perfected. I agree with D&P a long board is a must. It can be surfed from the outs to the inside. Once you get the hang of standing up and paddling then move out to the bigger white wash. Work on turning there. It is different then behind the boat. Where ever you look you will go. You need to use more arms and lower body due to the size of the board. The best thing about the white wash is you will probably not piss off any locals.
When I was at surf camp I made the mistake of going to a short board to quickly and it bummed me out cause it was harder to catch the bigger waves. I got it after awhile but I got the sh*t beat out of me a couple times trying to get a 6-8 foot tall waves. Like the heels of my feet touched my forehead kind of work over. The instructors also helped us with the timing of when to standup or when to let a wave pass.

Wear a rash gaurd if you like your nipples and stomach. The wax just rips you up. Even with a rash gaurd my stomach and nips still had a rash, but not as bad as with out. My knees were also pretty torn up.
Be prepared to be sore. Granted I did it for 5 days. The second day was almost a wash because i was so sore from paddling to standing up on the board that my arms did not want to work. And I work out 4 days a week!! That is the most intensive work out I can think of. Paddling out to get the sets is extremely hard to do. Then you catch a wave and you have to paddle back out through the other sets and surfers. Extremely exhuasting. I would reccomend swimming and lots of it like 20 laps in an olympic size pool every other day. That will help you get in shape.

Will I surf again, hell yeah. But I prefer behind a boat. Less of a work out. All the instructors from Costa Rica want to come up and surf behind a boat now that I introduced it to them.

Have fun it is an awesome feeling catching a wave that is generated thousands of mile away. If you did not before you will appreciate the force of a wave afterwards. You will be stoked!

I can email you a surfing 101 pdf that the surf camp sent me prior to my trip. Shoot me a PM and I will send it to you.

Now that I think of it the camp I went to also has a location is San Diego. Safari Surf School. Look them up. They are awesome.

Good luck and have fun!!

Found a picture of me surfing on the smaller waves getting my form and then a picture of my oldest Conner (7) learning to surf. He loved it!!!

[jbort]

JMitchell:

Sounds like fun and have blast if still standing afterward. Good for you. My request is take some pics and/or movies or have friend/family if possible and pop here when u get back. I know many would like to SEE your adventure.

[Duncan]

Will I surf again, hell yeah. But I prefer behind a boat. Less of a work out.

Agreed. My wife and I took surf lessons in central Florida and in Rincon, Puerto Rico. Physically grueling getting back out past the break, after which I would lay on the board trying to recover as great waves passed under me. Then when I needed a burst of paddling to catch a wave, my arms were toast. I exercise and work out several times a week but it is not enough.

Ocean surfers have my PROFOUND respect as to their paddling.

Once on the wave, I did not find it too difficult to pop up on a glass longboard. My wife got one of the foam longboards and deeply regretted it. The glass long boards are a little tippier than the foam but much more maneuverable.

The ride seems short of course after being used to surfing behind a boat. Then comes the paddle/battle back out. Oh yeah, rocks, coral and spiny urchins can be an issue too. Don't forget sharks.

One benefit of surfing lessons is that the instructor can provide insight into local surf etiquette -- hopefully reduced chances of us getting our asses kicked.

So, to re-quote Booms, "Will I surf again, hell yeah. But I prefer behind a boat." My wife on the other hand preferred ocean surfing for the soulfulness (and she was a much better paddler and is still a much better wakesurfer).

[TeamAllen]

Most of the others have covered it well. I agree with 10 feet + in length. It does depend a lot on your body size. Give us a little more info. What area of CA your going to? Do you have your own board? Renting? Surf camp/school?

My local surf this week is small. Very small! 1-2 feet ankle slappers. At least the water is warm.

http://www.surfline.com/surf-report/...lifornia_4235/
http://san-clemente.org/cameras/hqcamera.aspx

[jbort]

LOL "1-2 foot ankle slappers" thats a hoot.

[KonaKing]

Most of the others have covered it well. I agree with 10 feet + in length. It does depend a lot on your body size. Give us a little more info. What area of CA your going to? Do you have your own board? Renting? Surf camp/school?

My local surf this week is small. Very small! 1-2 feet ankle slappers. At least the water is warm.

http://www.surfline.com/surf-report/...lifornia_4235/
http://san-clemente.org/cameras/hqcamera.aspx

trestles is one of my favorite spots that and moonlight in SD

[jmitchell]

Thanks for all the insight guys. We are headed to Newport Beach and there was a surf school setup close by last year when we were there so I may talk with them about setting up a lesson.

To help with board length selection, I'm 5'-11" and 170 lbs. It sounds like a long board is the way to start and specifically not the foam boards right? Do they even rent out glass long boards? I guess it depends on the rental place. 10' seems awful long, would 7'-8' be better? Right now I feel I'm in pretty damn good shape, but I bet by my first day on the water I'll think differently.

Last year when we first arrived the waves were awesome! Probably 6' or better and the surfers were out by the hundreds. We were really busy doing other things and I told myself I would try by the end of the week, but guess what...the waves were gone by then and never returned. So hopefully by Sat/Sun on into Mon the waves will be crankin' again.

Thanks again

[Timmy!]

A 6' wave is bigger than you can handle for your first time IMO. Lay down on the floor and look up at a wall and see how big a 6' wave really is, it's huge when you've never surfed before. I'm not an expert, can only tell you what I experienced, but I was doing pretty good catching my own waves and stuff when I was in Maui and they were 3'-4' ones. The next day I rented my own board and went back out and the waves were in the 6' to 10' range and I got my azz kicked so hard it wasn't even funny! Ocean surfing is no joke, lots of respect for the physical condition of surfers.

Better hit Loveland high school and do some lap swimming before you go, you're going to need it.

[jmitchell]

I've got a lot of respect for the ocean and the power it brings, so I don't expect to be riding 6' waves right away, but hopefully 3'-4' waves.

And OUCH! I don't want to hear the words Loveland High out of your mouth again I went to TV and of course hated those guys! Glory days...