The bilge does not come on when i flip the switch. It came on with the engine off and the switch off. Any ideas why this would happen? 1998 Pre 2200 IWT
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Bilge pump not working
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The bilge pumps usually have 2 power inputs. The first would be the dash switch when you want to manually turn it on. The second would be direct from the battery (or auto side of a switch) thru a float switch that will turn it on automatically if there is enough water in the bilge to trip the float switch, i.e. sitting at the dock with no one in the boat, engine off and a small leak develops. More likely it would come on automatically when you take water over the nose. The factory pumps have the float switch built into the same housing as the pump. There are usually 3 wires on it - brown, white & black. The black is ground. The brown & white are the manual & automatic lines, but I'm not sure which is which. Sounds like your dash manual circuit is out, look for a blown fuse or loose connection.
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Where is the fuse located at? I did notice something that looked like a fuse located inside the storage area by the battery.Could that be it? Also,I am trying to figure out where all the water is coming from.What is the drip rate for the shaft? The packing is goodOriginally posted by R&T Babich View PostThe bilge pumps usually have 2 power inputs. The first would be the dash switch when you want to manually turn it on. The second would be direct from the battery (or auto side of a switch) thru a float switch that will turn it on automatically if there is enough water in the bilge to trip the float switch, i.e. sitting at the dock with no one in the boat, engine off and a small leak develops. More likely it would come on automatically when you take water over the nose. The factory pumps have the float switch built into the same housing as the pump. There are usually 3 wires on it - brown, white & black. The black is ground. The brown & white are the manual & automatic lines, but I'm not sure which is which. Sounds like your dash manual circuit is out, look for a blown fuse or loose connection.
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Tigé Expert- Mar 2008
- 1396
- The Sunshine State
- 2000 Tige 21I Riders Edition, 1980 MC Stars and Stripes
Knock on wood, mine is still running, always have my ballast pump back up though....
"I feel sorry for people that don't drink, when they wake up in the morning, that's as good as they're gonna feel all day" - Frank Sinatra
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When using a ballast pump as a backup, I worry that in a nasty situation, the time (and added confusion) required to fetch the ballast pump, get it plugged in, and start it pumping over the side might be, erm, too long and involved.
Any downside to adding additional built-in high-capacity pumps as a precaution (other than cost of course)? Does anyone else see a need or am I just being overly paranoid?
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bilge switch on... no bilge
when i switch on the bilge pump switch it was tripping the ckt braker on the dash after about 30 seconds, never did turn on. Now, it no longer trips the ckt braker but still never turns on... i guess i just need to get out my DMM and see if the switch, or the pump is bad... do you think it could be plugged... impeller (sp) jammed?Originally posted by dogbert View Postx2 on the blown fuse. Also check to make sure you don't have a loose ground on switch.
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Hopefully, there will never be a "need". I've upgraded the main bilge pump and added a 2nd that is mounted a little higher (along with a 2nd battery). The 2nd pump goes out a new thru hull on the left side and has a warning beeper in parallel. I have a 3rd pump in a clear plastic case with a 12v socket connector, battery clips and a 6ft hose. I can use it or toss it to someone who "needs" one. The "cost" of these pumps is nothing compared to having the boat sink.Originally posted by Duncan View Post...Any downside to adding additional built-in high-capacity pumps as a precaution (other than cost of course)? Does anyone else see a need or am I just being overly paranoid? ...
Some info: http://www.yachtsurvey.com/bilge_pumps.htm
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