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2012 Tige Z3 - Starting when key is in on position

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    2012 Tige Z3 - Starting when key is in on position

    I’ve been dealing with some issues with my Z3 this year. Our first time out the boat was running fine and then it started having acceleration cut out and then it would come back. So I thought it might be water in the gas. I dumped the filter no water in it. Toon the boat back out and it wouldn’t turnover. It would crank but not turnover. What was wired is it would crank crank crank and then when I turned the switch to the off position you could hear the engine try to fire. I replaced the ignition switch boat fired up and ran fine for the last 5 trips ran great. Now I am having the same issue the ignition switch as soon as I turn it to the on position the engine starts and runs. While it is running if I turn it to the start or Crank position the electrical cuts out, the stereo and touchscreen. Could this be a faulty ignition switch again? Starter relay? Fuse? Start solenoid? Also the boat seems to run rough and sluggish. I came across this article.

    https://youtu.be/gD0MtyoVCHk - but what may be sum other problems?

    What order should I diagnosis this in?

    Thanks in advance for your time!
    Last edited by DoubleDeeze1215!; 07-09-2019, 04:43 AM. Reason: Update

    #2
    Quick update on this - I replace the ignition. Switch tonight and had the same problems. As soon as I hit the on position the boat starts up. It’s such an intermittent problem. This is the second ignition switch I have put in this year. What’s even crazier is that the last ignition switch when it was working properly you could turn it to the on position the instrument cluster would light up, normal but if you squeezed the ignition switch with your palm the engine would fire up! Crazy.

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      #3
      CA8A9B94-AAF3-490D-81CE-FC2A74EF114C.jpgCA8A9B94-AAF3-490D-81CE-FC2A74EF114C.jpgC4788B11-0EC1-4C3D-BEC6-0D2E6C80A380.jpg

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        #4
        4B665431-BEBB-4042-B2E9-D306D33FC4EA.jpg4B665431-BEBB-4042-B2E9-D306D33FC4EA.jpg

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          #5
          Above are the pictures of my starter. I am wondering about a few things when looking at the starter it appears there may have been a bolt rusted off the starter on on of the small left posts Yes/ No? Also the nut on the right post seems rusted should I replace this nut? Lastly my wire when looking at the photo we’re sitting on top of a post that has no nut on it. I loosened them and moved them of the post.

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            #6
            Boat was again starting with the key in the ON position vs the crank position. Replace the Starter relay switch same issue. Next Up I am going to replace the Solenoid.

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              #7
              Do you have a volt meter? Sure would end a lot of speculation and part swapping. With the key off, there should only be voltage on one terminal. With key in ACC, one more has voltage. In RUN, one more has voltage. Then in Crank, i thinks its the Purple or pink, with red tracer maybe, has voltage to energize starter.
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                #8
                With a multi-meter I have the following
                1. Key in “ OFF” 12V - B - One Red Wire
                2. Key in “Accessory” -12V -A - Two Red Wires
                3. Key in “On/Run” - the Engine starts up - I get 9.75-10 Volts while engine is running
                4. While the engine is running I turn the key to crank and my volts go from 9.75-10V down to 0 volts.

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                  #9
                  I disconnect the crank wire also from the ignition switch turn the Ignition switch to the “On/Run” position and the engine starts up. It seems to run real lean also.

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                    #10
                    Originally posted by DoubleDeeze1215! View Post
                    I disconnect the crank wire also from the ignition switch turn the Ignition switch to the “On/Run” position and the engine starts up. .
                    Was there voltage on that disconnected crank wire?

                    In the #3 scenario, was that 9.75-10 V on the RUN post and the main B+ also?
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                      #11
                      When I disconnect the red and yellow start wire and turn the key too the on position, the engine starts. I test the voltage on the disconnected wire and it reads 9.75V.

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                        #12
                        Originally posted by chpthril View Post
                        Was there voltage on that disconnected crank wire?

                        In the #3 scenario, was that 9.75-10 V on the RUN post and the main B+ also?
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                        When I disconnect the red and yellow start wire and turn the key too the on position, the engine starts. I test the voltage on the disconnected wire and it reads 9.75V.

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                          #13
                          So that rules the key switch. Voltage is coming into that circuit some how somewhere down stream, vie to the RUN circuit. Find the starter relay and unplug it.
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                            #14
                            Originally posted by chpthril View Post
                            So that rules the key switch. Voltage is coming into that circuit some how somewhere down stream, vie to the RUN circuit. Find the starter relay and unplug it.
                            Here is the starter relay. I unplugged it and the boat works fine in the “On” position but obviously will not turn over. I tested the volts to the starter relay and when the key was in “ON” we were getting 12V. I also tested the ignition relay switch next to it and when the key was in “ON” I was getting 12V there also.83ACA90E-7119-4980-B187-6624D05C9174.jpg

                            I also switched the ignition relay and fuel pump relay(they were the same relay) same result.

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                              #15
                              same result
                              Boat starts in RUN?
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