How difficult is it to remove the transmission from a v-drive have a leak in shaft seal
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Easiest way is to support back of engine and pull the v-drive and trans together. Here's how to do it:
1) Unbolt the four bolts on the prop shaft coupler from the v-drive coupler and label in a plastic organizer box.
2) Loosen the engine forward motor mount top nuts only, this will allow the engine to pivot without stressing the mount shafts.
3) Remove the top nuts from the transmission post mounts and the support top nut from the v-drive isolator mount (if equipped. I'm not sure if that model has the over-the-vdrive mounting bracket like some of the later years), label and store in the box.
4) Use the nuts below the transmission mounts to lift the back end of the engine and transmission by turning them counter clockwise as you're looking down the mount post. You should raise the assembly to at least the top of the transmission mount post.
5) Use appropriately sized blocks of wood to support the bell housing against the hull and then lower the assembly back down using the transmission mount nuts. Once the assembly is supported you can remove the transmission mounts from the stringers on the boat as this will make it easier to pull the transmission out. If you have the additional support bracket over the v-drive remove that too, marking the orientation on all the mounts for ease during installation.
6) Disconnect the water hoses from the v-drive, disconnect the pressure sensor wires from the vdrive and label, disconnect the transmission oil lines from the cooler if possible as this will leak the least but be prepared with towels and absorbent pads to catch all that comes out. And disconnect the trans temp sender wires and label and the neutral safety switch wires and label.
7) Remove the 6 bolts and studs that hold the transmission to the bell housing keeping track and labeling which bolts go where but leaving one of the top ones last until you're ready to pull the unit.
8) Remove the last bolt with a ready hand to support the assembly. When the last bolt is removed, the trans and v-drive can slide boat forward until the transmission input shaft has cleared the bell housing at which point everything is free and clear. Keep in mind the assembly is going to weigh close to 150lbs and is awkward to handle.
Tools needed:
1 1/8" open end wrench for the engine mount nuts
7/8" open end for transmission lines
5/8" deep socket
9/16" regular socket
various screwdrivers
You'll need to empty the fluid out of both the v-drive and the transmission before you separate them from each other so plan accordingly for that.
I would also suggest replacing the drive plate on the flywheel and the propshaft packing while you're in there but that's up to you. Good luck and post any questions or send me a PM and you can call.Fixing everyone elses boat just so I can use mine...
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Tigé Jedi
- Jul 2010
- 4302
- TN USA
- Ballast Sensors, Hose Sensors, IMU's, Tige SpeedSet panels and more shipping every day!
A quick note to say how much I appreciate your knowledge share on this site. Your experience and willingness to help others is incredibly valuable, and you're always happy to help. It's folks like you that make sites like this so useful. Thank you!
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Originally posted by WABoating View PostA quick note to say how much I appreciate your knowledge share on this site. Your experience and willingness to help others is incredibly valuable, and you're always happy to help. It's folks like you that make sites like this so useful. Thank you!Mods: MLA BIG Ballast System (1800+ Custom sacs, 2 500 W705 sacs under bow), Duffy Surf Flap Mod, Trimmed Swim Deck, Top-Mount Starter
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Forgot to add too: after the coupler for the prop shaft is unbolted be sure to pull on the propeller to separate the coupler at least an inch from the trans coupler. There's a flange in there that will hang up if they're not separated and you start raising the drivetrain.Fixing everyone elses boat just so I can use mine...
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