After pulling the boat out this fall, I noticed a gray colored bushing on the output shaft.(Sliding on shaft between the strut and the bottom of the boat). It did not appear to come from the strut, so I figured it came from above where the shaft goes through the bottom of the boat. I took it to the local boat shop. The pressed the bushing back into the bottom of the boat. They said it went in solid. I am not sure they got it all the way in. I can't find any information on this area of the boat to tell if it is in correctly. It still spins on the shaft. Anyone seen this before? I attached a pic, tried to put an arrow on the bushing.
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Did you ever figure out what that piece was and did it stay in place? We are having the same issue with our boat. Thanks.Originally posted by hjc1972 View Post -
Funny enough, just had as 2006 20v come thru with same issue today. If anyone has an answer let me know. Am assuming it was in the shaft log. Owner says no problems with taking on water and believe it is a flax style packing. Finished his wint and noticed his prop was damaged. Removed it and noticed said bushing. Boats coming back later so sent it out.Comment
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We had one place look at it and they thought it was the seal for the gland assembly and want $2,000 to pull the motor and transmission to replace the seal. We wanted a 2nd opinion. Here are some pics. We would love to know if you figure out what this is and where it came from.Comment
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20171113_170210.jpg
This is what I found today. Don't believe it's related to the shaft packing as it should be a flax packing, but found this after boat was winterized and cover on, on its way out the shop, so may not be flax style seal.
If your shop has the ability to lift an engine they should be able to lift the boat. Pulling engine and trans is overkill. Unbolt coupler, lift boat up, slide hammer propshaft out. At least that's how we do it. Occasionally some couplers are a pain to get out(prop shaft seizes to coupler), but usually just cut the coupler with an air saw and wedge it open so shaft will come out if that's the case. Then new coupler gets added to the bill. Everyone has their own ways tho. Really just depends on your shops labor rate.
I think this piece was part of the shaft log, the fitting where shaft passes thru the hull. Was going to email Tige tomorrow. This customers boat is coming back during winter for bunks and other work so have time to figure out what it is.
Regardless if you were pulling the shaft out, would switch out to an XPC dripless shaft seal. I have never pulled a engine to Rand R a shaft seal tho.
All that being said, I bet our service writer would quote you 6 hours and 300 in parts, possibly more for coupler and shaft log. So 2000 isn't a ridiculous quote, just more than I would expect.Last edited by freeheel4life; 11-14-2017, 06:42 AM.Comment
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Swap out the stuffing box. That should have been a 2006 model year only item on a hand full of boats. It was an orcot bearing (I believe is what they were called) in the stuffing box. Swap it out with a drip less or water fed setup.
I can see the labor being higher in that generation. The shaft coupler sits below the vdrive therefore you have to lift the transmission side of the engine to pull the shaft. They DO NOT need to pull the engine. unbolt the mounts towards the front of the boat and lift up the Vdrive which will point the pulley side of the engine downward. That should give enough room to remove the shaft and do the swap.Last edited by KoolAid; 11-14-2017, 02:35 PM.Oh Yeah!Comment
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This is great info. It is interesting that so many of the 2006s are having the same problem at the same time. Please let us know what Tige has to say about the issue. Thanks!Comment
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They will say its a 11 year old, maintenance item. Replace it.Oh Yeah!Comment
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But what exactly is "it"? Everyone seems to have a differing opinion.Comment
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It was the seal in the stuffing box/shaft log/shaft seal.
Replace it with something like this: http://www.go2marine.com/category/12...for-boats.htmlOh Yeah!Comment
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The shop that we had look at your boat said that it was probably a "gland" assembly that went bad. Is the stuffing box/shaft log/shaft seal the same thing as a gland assembly?Comment
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Originally posted by Bill Bergeron View Post
Here it is. It's called different names by different people. Dripless shaft seal is what this one is...stuffing box to me refers to flax style seal. Removed and replaced without lifting engine or trans at all. Had to drop the rudder though. Slide hammer does the rest. 4 hours labor and 157 for new shaft seal.
Notice in last pic where shaft wore abraded after bushing walked out and wore into brass(I re-inserted bushing to show how much wear had occurred.) Shaft didn't sag or move, the shaft seal did without bushing to keep it centered on shaft.Last edited by freeheel4life; 12-14-2017, 09:07 PM.Comment
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Awesome you were able to get the nut off the coupling and get it to let go of the shaft. Never had any luck with that lol! Thanks for posting up the pictures.Oh Yeah!Comment
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Sure thing. I have only had one coupler best me on an old Supra Launch SSV, so far. Had to sneak in with an air saw and cut the coupler and open it up with a couple wedges to get it out.
https://www.bing.com/images/search?v...138&ajaxhist=0
We have this puller and not much stands up to it. This one fought me for a bit, but I used my mini SnapOn butane torch and just put a lot of heat to the coupler and have a helping hand slowly turn prop as I heat. Then start slide hammering away and it USUALLY comes out. I also use a shortened 1 1/16 socket and a serpentine belt tool, but really only need it when you are replacing the PSS seals as they are really long and you cant slide shaft far enough away from v-drive. Nylock on this coupler came out with my shortened socket and 1/2" ratchet.
I also rig up this little idea to preload what going out while pulling couple towards v drive. Harder when you have to use a short socket.Last edited by freeheel4life; 12-14-2017, 10:43 PM.Comment
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