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    #16
    winterizing

    I work for a boat dealership and when I winterize, I put stabilizer in the fuel, enough for what is in the tank. Then I get the engine up to operating temp. and fogg the engine, through the carb or throttle body until the can is gone then kill engine. I pull the block plugs(maybe knock senser on some engines) the exh. manifold plugs or hoses, the engine circulating pump hose, the sea water pump hoses & a plug on the side top on v-drive models). Some engine hose routings I still have to pull the hose off the oil cooler(always look for low hoses that may hold water). If the boat has a heater I pull the inlet & outlet hoses off the engine & blow compressed air threw them. If it has a shower I take the hoses off the manifold for the shower & blow compressed air threw them(most of the time the hot water will come from the engine block plug). Open shower sprayer on the shower & blow air threw it, to get water out of the pump(it will brake if water is left in it).
    If it sounds like to much for you I would take it to a dealer & let them do it. They have to back there work & engines are extremely expensive. We charge $108. for all of that. Good luck!
    Last edited by Chris Wilcox; 10-18-2004, 01:02 AM.

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      #17
      I tried the antifreeze in the bucket trick. The bucket was on the ground with a hose hooked up to the Fake-a-Lake, however it wouldn't suck. Then we used a funnel and filled it up and the antifreeze went through the system. Can you tell me why it wouldn't suck the antifreeze from the bucket on it's own?

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        #18
        You have to have the bucket above the intake for the water, gravity will make the water always run to the lowest point. If the bucket is higher than the water intake the anti freeze will be right at the pump. I have enough hose on mine so I keep the bucket on the trailer fender.

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