Taps oil level

[R&T Babich]

I was just checking the fluid level in our TAPS pump and noticed the sticker on the side of the reservoir says to check the level with the trim plate in the full UP position.

[TRD]

thanks,
I will look at that this wkend.

[chpthril]

Cool, thanks

[lee]

Look on the end of this drawing.

[chpthril]

The fill level is not on the stick but on the reservoir.

Is there a trick to see the marks? We looked, but could not see them

[lee]

The fill level is not on the stick but on the reservoir.

[TRD]

dipstick for taps oil

Here is what the dipstick looks like for my taps oil. Can anyone mark where the full level would be please? I'm not sure how far up this the oil should be. There doesn't seem to be any writting one it.
Thanks

[littlehouseonprairie]

Go to http://www.bennetttrimtabs.com/trouble.htm

Remove the Lexan cover and note part identification #3, "filler stack". Remove the plug and fill to the full line on the bottom reservoir with any brand of clean ATF (Automatic Transmission Fluid). While at parts store, also pickup a small tip funnel, the filler stack hole is only about 3/8". Fill slowly to avoid overflow at the spout. Replace lexan cover. Don't over-tighten the hold-down screw or the Lexan will crack.

PS... Bennett will rebuild your pump or replace if you send in your old one. Cost is generally pretty reasonable. They are extremely helpful people.

RW

[lee]

Lee,
should or could I use dexron III trans oil in this unit?

Yes, that will be fine.

[TRD]

Look on the side of the reservoir and add to the full mark.

Lee,
should or could I use dexron III trans oil in this unit?

[Costigan]

Thanks, I'll try to see the side, but it may be tough without a mirror or something as the access hole is only the size of the pump on my boat.

[lee]

Sorry to change the subject. But back to the Taps oil level. How full do you fill it? Thanks!

Look on the side of the reservoir and add to the full mark.

[Costigan]

Sorry to change the subject. But back to the Taps oil level. How full do you fill it? Thanks!

[dogbert]

The only problem with the plastic ones is that they get brittle and break. I'd recommend changing them every 2 years or you will end up with one that breaks by itself. Trying to get the rest of it out of there was a HPITA.

[R&T Babich]

My old boat had metal plugs and I accidentally striped out one of the holes and had to get it rethreaded. Also, I think the plastic ones are also a safety measure. They can blow out if needed to help save your engine if it does freeze, unlike the metal ones.

I think the blue plastic drain plugs are plastic because the old style brass ones get really hard to open by hand when they get corroded. While the plastic ones might blow out if the engine coolant freezes the brass freeze plugs in the sides and ends of the engine block are designed for that. Our boat was 6 years old when we got it and I don't think the plastic drain plugs had ever been used - 2 of them broke in half when removed, leaving the threaded part in the holes. Also, heat from the engine will make the plastic get brittle over time. Probably a good idea to replace them after a number of years.