Quick Winterization of 5.7L PCM EX343

[jmitchell]

I have read multiple threads on here for winterizing but I just want to clarify a few things. Typically I have the dealer do this work but I'd like to try it myself. Here are my specs and what I plan to do for a quick winterization:

Boat: 2010 Z1 (no heaters & no shower)
Engine: 5.7L PCM EX343 (fuel injected)
Avg. Season Hours: 15 hrs
Storage: Insulated but non-heated garage

Items to do quick winterization EACH season:
1. Add Marine STA-BIL 360 fuel stabilizer to full gas tank
2. Pull 7 drain locations (see below). 1 thru 6 are plugs; 7 is a hose with clamp
3. Clear bilge area of drained water
4. Pull spark plugs and fog each cylinder with STA-BIL Fogging Oil (aerosol - see below)
5. Batteries to be left in boat - charged in the spring

Items to do with EVERY OTHER winterization:
6. Change Oil & Filter (was just done with winterization last year - only 15 hrs this summer)

Items to do based on HOURS or SEASONS:
7. Change Fuel Filter (every 50 hrs; 3 seasons for us)
8. Change Impeller (every 50 hrs; 3 seasons for us) - Impeller is typically not removed each winter by dealer; I will not remove unless needing to be replaced.

Is there anything I may have missed, needs to be modified, or other suggestions you might have??? Thanks for the help

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[chpthril]

Based on a 15 hour a season average, I see why you want to only change the oil every other season. But DUDE, we need to get you some help! For real, you need to ride more Seriously though, id consider doing the oil change at layup just to take any condensation from lack of use. Also, you are running the engine after putting the 360 in the tank? This gets it circulated to the injectors. Charge batteries so they are at 100% going into storage. Leaving batteries low degrades them, as well as makes then susceptible to the cold.

[cbath]

Ethanol or non ethanol fuel?


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[lancehon]

Non ethanol if you have access to it

[chpthril]

^^^ and if not, I would lose sleep over it.

[jmitchell]

Thanks for the response Mike. I know, I know...15 hrs is hardly anything but all 15 hrs were spent surfing this year including getting my 7 year old up with me for the first time. We do get out almost every weekend, but we sit idle a lot and swim with the kids.

Items 1 thru 3 from above are complete. I did not fully run the engine because I don't have a fake-a-lake but I did a quick ignition start/stop 3 times to help circulate the fuel stabilizer.

We may not get to the oil change for a couple of months, but don't you have to start the engine for part of that process which would require a fake-a-lake? If someone has an oil change step by step I'd love to see it.

A silly question about fogging the cylinders, what is the easiest way to turn the drive shaft to line the cylinders with the fogging oil after I've sprayed for a couple of seconds in each one?

[IDBoating]

OK, I'll say it one more time: Don't cheap out on engine maintenance. That's a $10,000 engine you're protecting. Take good care of your equipment and it will take good care of you.

Comments:

1) If you have the CATanium (catalytic converter) engine (grey exhaust risers instead of black), there are two more drain plugs on the exhaust system. Don't miss them.

2) Don't leave your batteries in the boat. Take them out and put them on a trickle charger. One charger can serve both batteries - just move the cables back and forth every week or so when you think about it. A Battery Tender Plus trickle charger can be had off eBay for under $50.

3) Change the oil and filter every 50 hours OR at least once a year at winterization, whichever occurs EARLIEST. I believe the manual says this explicitly. Chpthril is correct, it's not just about the engine hour number. Do a search here on oil+filter changes using an oil extractor - takes like five minutes total, is clean, and can be done from within the passenger compartment without even pulling the boat from the water.

4) Remove and store the impeller in a ziploc bag. Two reasons. First, this is part of getting all of the water out of your cooling system; the impeller pump is airtight (so it will self-prime) and thus water can be trapped in there. Second, the impeller can take a set over the winter. The ziploc bag is because rubber products can deteriorate in the presence of combustion byproducts such as those from gas water heaters, clothes dryers, cooktops, ovens, and other very normal household items so unless you carefully store it away from any such source keep it in an airtight bag.

5) Don't forget to hand-turn the crankshaft after shooting the storage oil through the spark plug holes. You want to distribute a nice layer of protection all around in there, not just where the spray happened to hit.

6) No ethanol fuel. Ever. And especially over the winter. I'd drive a long, LONG way to insure I was at least storing my boat without ethanol. $10,000 for a new engine....

There's a lot more that could/should be done, but you wanted "quick".

[IDBoating]

I did a quick ignition start/stop 3 times to help circulate the fuel stabilizer.

...which basically does nothing at all. An unladen (idling) engine draws almost no fuel, and you didn't run it very long anyway. I bet the Sta-Bil didn't even make it to the FCC, let alone the fuel rails. I'm not trying to be a downer here but seriously, you need to stabilize the fuel in the fuel injection system. Cleaning or replacing fuel injectors due to gummed up fuel is very expensive.

We may not get to the oil change for a couple of months, but don't you have to start the engine for part of that process which would require a fake-a-lake?

Ideally you warm the engine before changing the oil, but changing it cold is better than not changing it at all. No, you do not have to run the engine. You should confirm the oil level next spring after you DO start the engine, though, to make certain you refilled it properly.

A silly question about fogging the cylinders, what is the easiest way to turn the drive shaft to line the cylinders with the fogging oil after I've sprayed for a couple of seconds in each one?

5/8ths socket on the crankshaft pulley, turn clockwise (as if you're tightening it). Rotate the crankshaft at least 3-4 full rotations, then replace the plugs (after cleaning and regapping them, of course).

[cbath]

I was asking the OP if he uses ethanol/non ethanol fuel. No way would I lay my boat up for the winter if it had any ethanol fuel in it after sitting through the summer with only 15 hours of use...... Ethanol and storage do not go together at all!


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[jmitchell]

OK, I'll say it one more time: Don't cheap out on engine maintenance. That's a $10,000 engine you're protecting. Take good care of your equipment and it will take good care of you.

Comments:

1) If you have the CATanium (catalytic converter) engine (grey exhaust risers instead of black), there are two more drain plugs on the exhaust system. Don't miss them.


2) Don't leave your batteries in the boat. Take them out and put them on a trickle charger. One charger can serve both batteries - just move the cables back and forth every week or so when you think about it. A Battery Tender Plus trickle charger can be had off eBay for under $50.

3) Change the oil and filter every 50 hours OR at least once a year at winterization, whichever occurs EARLIEST. I believe the manual says this explicitly. Chpthril is correct, it's not just about the engine hour number. Do a search here on oil+filter changes using an oil extractor - takes like five minutes total, is clean, and can be done from within the passenger compartment without even pulling the boat from the water.

4) Remove and store the impeller in a ziploc bag. Two reasons. First, this is part of getting all of the water out of your cooling system; the impeller pump is airtight (so it will self-prime) and thus water can be trapped in there. Second, the impeller can take a set over the winter. The ziploc bag is because rubber products can deteriorate in the presence of combustion byproducts such as those from gas water heaters, clothes dryers, cooktops, ovens, and other very normal household items so unless you carefully store it away from any such source keep it in an airtight bag.

5) Don't forget to hand-turn the crankshaft after shooting the storage oil through the spark plug holes. You want to distribute a nice layer of protection all around in there, not just where the spray happened to hit.

6) No ethanol fuel. Ever. And especially over the winter. I'd drive a long, LONG way to insure I was at least storing my boat without ethanol. $10,000 for a new engine....

There's a lot more that could/should be done, but you wanted "quick".

IDBoating, thank you for your response. I appreciate it.

In response to these comments...
1. We do not have the CES engine so the plugs from the first post are all we have

2. Your recommendation is noted on the batteries. I have a battery trickle charger/maintainer that I usually hook up to the batteries in the spring with the batteries still connected in the boat to charge up for summer. I will at a minimum take Chpthril's suggestion to charge before winter but I will plan to periodically charge them through the winter as well. I'd like to leave them hooked up in the boat however.

3. 50 hours or 120 days or once a year is what the manual states. I will plan to either change the oil myself or take it in within the next month. I'm sure I'll have some questions when it comes time. I'll be doing it on the trailer with no fake-a-lake however so the engine will be "cold". Sounds like I need to get it level and watch not to over-fill.

4. The impeller is a bit of a mystery to me in the fact that I've had 4 winterizations done by the dealer and none of which have they removed the impeller except last season when we had it replaced. I'm also highly doubtful that they removed it temporarily to get rid of the trapped water each winterization. I understand why it needs to be removed but is it really necessary if the dealer isn't doing it?

5. 10-4

6. I obviously am not using E85; however, I am using 91 octane at every fuel up but don't always pay attention if it has a sticker on the pump for E10 (10% or less ethanol). The manual says that E10 or less is acceptable for the engine, but warns about potential long term issues. See below...

(Thanks for the other info on the fuel stabilizer, oil change, and crankshaft)

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[lancehon]

Get that ethanol out of there, octane makes no difference in a storage situation. If nothing else just suck the tank dry and use it in your vehicles and get fresh gas in the boat in the spring

[IDBoating]

I have a battery trickle charger/maintainer that I usually hook up to the batteries in the spring with the batteries still connected in the boat to charge up for summer. I will at a minimum take Chpthril's suggestion to charge before winter but I will plan to periodically charge them through the winter as well. I'd like to leave them hooked up in the boat however.

Batteries self-discharge when in storage. Letting your batteries drop too low in charge can reduce their useful life, AND their storage capacity during their remaining life. Finally, batteries don't like to get too cold. Hence my recommendation to remove them if you store your boat in an unheated environment. We pull our batteries and store them in a utility room within the house, rotating a single Battery Tender Plus between them during the winter, so they stay warm and comfortable. YMMV, just my $0.02, etc.

[jmitchell]

4. The impeller is a bit of a mystery to me in the fact that I've had 4 winterizations done by the dealer and none of which have they removed the impeller except last season when we had it replaced. I'm also highly doubtful that they removed it temporarily to get rid of the trapped water each winterization. I understand why it needs to be removed but is it really necessary if the dealer isn't doing it?

Any further thoughts/comments on the impeller? Thanks

[chpthril]

Any further thoughts/comments on the impeller? Thanks

Hers my thoughts on the impeller. Yes, its a wear item and should be maintained as such, and periodic replacement based on use is a good idea.

Should an impeller be pulled for winter? Nope. I hate the idea of tearing a boat apart in the fall and then having to put it back together in the spring. IMO, there is no reason a boat cant be turn-key ready come spring.

Is there a benefit to pulling the impeller and storing it out for the off season? Probably, but does it out weight the cost of having someone pull it and then put it back in? Not in my mind. Does it out weight the time for me to do it my self? Hell no. If im that worried about the life of the impeller, then just put a new one in each spring, since id be working on it anyway while my turn-key alter ego is already on the water

[IDBoating]

I always respect Chpthril's opinions.

That said, I pull my impeller. I'm already pulling the raw water pump to make certain no water is trapped in there, so pulling the impeller is an extra 10 seconds. Putting it back in the Spring is another 10 seconds. This also insures that I inspect the impeller every season for normal or unusual wear. Very nasty if an impeller throws chunks into your engine block's cooling system.

As for the raw water pump itself: It's three 8mm bolts. They come out in under a minute. They go back in about the same amount of time. Totalled up you're saving what, maybe five minutes across six months?

This also means you're removing the engine belt, another consumable that should be inspected annually. So this five minutes insures that you inspect, and properly store, two consumable rubber parts that should be inspected every year anyway.

Totally up to you. But I consider that five minutes to be a very inexpensive insurance policy.