What oil do you use in your engine?

[ajholt7]

Does it look like this?

That is the full synthetic. I think I will use that on my next oil change. Seems to work well in the HEUI system on my diesel.

[dom w. forte]

To make this even more confusing, every user having an opinion, you would think that the dealer, Tige, and engine manufacturer would all be on the same page as to which oil to use. They are not, which one of them is correct?

I dont think you could get all the dealers and manufacturers to agree on one specific, their are lots of variables, their climate , usage and personal experinece, for our shop here in fla. we deal with heat, humidity, salt and sand, we deal with lots of limited run performance cars, we have only ever used one brand of oil for over 50 years, and abide by factory specs, the only thing we recommend differently is we state, oil change every 50hrs or 6 months, as you said its all just opinions based on everybodys experence.

[petrey10]

i called a dealer in my area just to see if I could buy some from him...he said he doesn't really sell oil but to get Rotella T 15w-40 from NAPA and it will work just fine..... soooo thats what I got. I hope it works as good as the expensive Quiksilver stuff and Sierra brand stuff

[IDBoating]

Just watch out for the other versions of Rotella. I believe some of them may still not be rated CJ-4/SM.

[Wickedcummins]

I run Royal Purple witch is gf-5 and SN rated. Its out does the gf-4/SM rating. I run the 15w-40 but going to switch to there 5w-40 next oil change.. The royal purple guys said there 5w-40 would be better and includes come of there new additives!

You can get royal purple all over the place!

[dom w. forte]

The only reason I stick with the engine manufacturers oil specs. and not any oil companys specs, the manufacture has more testing of their engines and materials then the oil companys data, just my take.

[IDBoating]

The only reason I stick with the engine manufacturers oil specs. and not any oil companys specs, the manufacture has more testing of their engines and materials then the oil companys data, just my take.

x2, plus if you use what the manufacturer recommends there can be no warranty questions about "You used the wrong lubricant".

[wired1236]

I would be curious of the results if a suvey was done by asking the mechanics or manufactures how many engines they have seen that were damaged due to improper TYPE of oil.

I've talked to a few mechanics (and seen posts on other forums) that have never seen an engine problem due to the "wrong type" BUT they have seen many problems caused by no oil or oil that was never changed.

[Wickedcummins]

A 15-40 will run at 40 weight at temp.but thicken more cold. A 5w-40 will be thinner when cold and run at40 hot

[dom w. forte]

My experince is based on 50 years of working on engines, IMO whats criticle is viscosity , climate and service timeline.
There is lots of difference from engine to engine and manufacturer to manufacturer, most engines in the last ten years are useing different materials with tighter torlorences, they require lighter weights to lube properly, our boat engines are old technology, looser tollerences , under extreem loads and always under load unlike cars and trucks, and require heavyer viscosity.
Frequency of change is next most importent item, boats are in a harsh inviroment and should be serviced every 50hrs or 6 months, if you are heavyly ballasted trans should be serviced everytime also due to the heat build up.
As far as brand, everybody has an opinion , but I can pull a valve cover off an engine and 9 out of 10 times can tell you what brand of oil was being used due to the varnish build up.
And dont skimp on the quality of the oil filters.
Another thing linked to oil failure and commonly over looked in boats is thermstat, and I dont mean overheating, runnind to cold is worst letting lots of contamants go into the oil.
Well thats my 2 cents worth.

[IDBoating]

...if you are heavyly ballasted trans should be serviced everytime also due to the heat build up... Well thats my 2 cents worth.

Dom speaks, I listen!

I was wondering in another thread about changing the transmission fluid with every oil change because I don't seem to be getting all of the fluid out. Your comment is another excellent reason to do so.

Your wisdom is always appreciated. Thank you!

[mnpracing]

That's the correct stuff. The "T" version is GF-4/SM rated (the other versions of Rotella aren't necessarily).

Raising this thread from the deal. Rotella T 15W-40 does not have a GF-4 rating. Anyone find a 15W-40 with the GF-4 and SM ratings? Most 15W-40's that I find have SM, but none have GF-4....

[TeamAllen]

From my reading the ILSAC, GF-4 rating only applies to SAE 0W-20, 5W-20, 0W-30, 5W-30, and 10W-30 viscosity grade oils?
http://www.inp.nsk.su/news/seminars/2011_298_ILSAC.pdf
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Motor_oil

[mnpracing]

From my reading the ILSAC, GF-4 rating only applies to SAE 0W-20, 5W-20, 0W-30, 5W-30, and 10W-30 viscosity grade oils?
http://www.inp.nsk.su/news/seminars/2011_298_ILSAC.pdf
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Motor_oil

I saw that too. Seems strange that the owners manual calls for 15W-40 with al GF-4 rating.....

[JohnnieMo]

I just fell into this hornets nest after putting this in my engine.



I swore last year it said “gasoline or diesel” on the bottle. This year it just says diesel with no ratings for gas. Now I’m wondering what to do!!