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How to change a steering cable.
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Does this appear like someone already cut flooring to make room for snaking in a new cable?20190529_192850.jpg
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Sound like you are describing the raw water pump inlet and outlet hoses. Just flip flop them and you should be good to go. The stiffer hose is the suction side(stiffer so it doesnt collapse under vacuum), and the softer radiator type hose is the pressure side of the raw water loop.Originally posted by Jarhead14 View PostJust replaced the steering cable in my 2002 21v limited. Everything went great...but my buddy disconnected two hoses to get to the rudder arm and did not mark which one went where. I am not sure myself - we tried based off of hose/connection size but my boat which runs at 175 like a metronome began to over heat.
One hose is insulated and heavy duty and the other is not. Both hoses connect to the ports with the blue drain plugs. Any help would be greatly appreciated!! So bummed that the I got the cable swapped and this is what's holding me up.
THANKS!!
Most the time the hardwall hose is on the bottom and radiator hose on top.
Be sure to get the hardwall tube all the way on and hose clamp good and tight. If the suction side can suck air it will, and cause raw water pump to not pull as much lake water.Last edited by freeheel4life; 07-30-2018, 11:32 PM.
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Just replaced the steering cable in my 2002 21v limited. Everything went great...but my buddy disconnected two hoses to get to the rudder arm and did not mark which one went where. I am not sure myself - we tried based off of hose/connection size but my boat which runs at 175 like a metronome began to over heat.
One hose is insulated and heavy duty and the other is not. Both hoses connect to the ports with the blue drain plugs. Any help would be greatly appreciated!! So bummed that the I got the cable swapped and this is what's holding me up.
THANKS!!
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Replaced the cable on my 03' 21V this weekend.. Thank you for the easy to follow step by step. It is amazing how much better the wheel spins.
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Kind of depends on how seized it is and how much room you have in the bilge. If you can sneak a pipe wrench or a pair of channel locks onto the tube that the nut is threaded onto you can sometimes free it up.Originally posted by MexTex View PostAlright...I am at a loss. The 1 1/8" nut is spinning everything, but removing the nut. What is fix? Appreciate it.
If that's not an option or you can't make that work you unbolt the whole assembley/clamp that holds the tube and bring it up out of the bilge so you can get some proper leverage on the situation.
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Alright...I am at a loss. The 1 1/8" nut is spinning everything, but removing the nut. What is fix? Appreciate it.
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134 is the original and 154 is the new extreme duty cable. The 19 is the length of the cable.
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What boat do you have?
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hey,I'm trying to replace the cable myself. Is there a trick to getting the floor panel off to get to the gas casino spiele kostenlos ohne anmeldung I tried to just pry it up with a coupe screwdrivers, but it seems like it's attached somewhere under the back seating. Any help is appreciated.Last edited by Sherley; 03-13-2019, 09:29 AM.
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Just a quick update on the bellows mod I did about a year ago. I went up and did an oil change on the boat last weekend, so I snapped a picture of the added bellows in place. It worked flawlessly last season, and appear all in tact. It does bottom slightly when fully compressed, but it doesn't appear to have crushed the rubber or anything after the full season. I try not to crank the steering all the way to stop. tigebellows.jpg
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In keeping with tradition on this thread... thanks to the info here, I was able to swap out the cable on our 2013 Z3. If anyone is interested, here is a vid of the entire process (please forgive the poor lighting and not-great quality... it was off my GoPro headband): https://youtu.be/mbxO5TzYvxQ (23 mins). I would add to the list of tools you need:
-An assortment of phillips screw drivers/screwgun (to remove panels)
-A grease gun with marine lithium grease (for the rudder box and to lube the cable end inside the support tube)
-Plenty of zip-ties to reattach things and/or get them out of your way
-Channel-lock pliers (if you're like me and your 1-1/8" crescent wrench won't fit in the workspace)
-A ratchet wrench with an assortment of fittings
-You will definitely want an LED worklight. Something you won't heat up in the small area.
-A wire coat-hanger
I did not need to remove my existing cable first. There was a reasonable amount of room to work with... but your mileage may vary. If you're a big guy (I'm 6'-2" and around 260#), plan on getting into some really tight spaces and being uncomfortable. A (much skinnier) friend of mine came over to help towards the end and he could very easily get in and out of the rear lockers. Lesson learned... pay your smaller friends with pizza and drinks and let them climb down into the bilge
Hope this helps!
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Just did this in my 2005 22i direct drive. About 1 1/2 hours total....Thank you to all who contributed. I can now drive with two fingers instead of two hands
BTW, ordered my cable through walmart.com for $104...18'.
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