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How to change a steering cable.
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Thanks to everyone that contributed to this thread! I've read through your helpful notes a number of times and have used this as a reference to change out two steering cables over the years.
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KoolAid, yes correct. My seal is hard plastic and will not slide on. Tolerances are really tight. Probably going to take the tube out and hammer it on gently.
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If you are talking about the seal on the tube by the rudder it should be easy. Take the bolt out of the cable that mounts it to the tiller arm. The seal can just slide on. I suggest packing it with grease as well to reduce water getting into the cable and using a clamp or zip tie to help hold the seal in place.
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Any way to get the support tube seal back on the tube without removing the whole assembly? If assembly needs removing what is the best way?
6 bolts on the metal bracket that goes toward bottom of boat? (Easiest to reach)
4 bolts that pinch the support tube?
Nut that goes from floor bracket to knuckle.
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I plan to replace the steering cable on my 2008 22ve. Does anyone know the model number of the cable I need to purchase? Also, how do I remove the panel over the gas tank at the center of the floor? Any assistance is appreciated. Thanks.
Jerry
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This is the best method. No need to run it down the bilge like originally installed.Originally posted by JohnnieMo View PostYes. Everything you just said.
I ended up just running my cable down the starboard side of the boat. It took 20 minutes after already wasting weeks cutting holes and cussing.
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Yes. Everything you just said.
I ended up just running my cable down the starboard side of the boat. It took 20 minutes after already wasting weeks cutting holes and cussing.
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I finally got around to doing this. What a pain in the butt. The hole beneath the console where the cable exits the bilge 1) isn't big enough and 2) also was stuffed with the fill line for the front ballast and 2 hoses to connect the heater to the engine coolant. Even with the hoses pulled out with fish string attached, the hole is too small. The hole is also pretty much inaccessible, surrounded on 3 sides. After trying with a Dremel with no success, I finally cut the trim piece on the rear side about 10" up and then had access with a jig saw. I extended the hole 1 1/2" wide x 2" long to rear. The reason the hole needs to be bigger is the rod end of the cable gets wedged between the floor and the gas tank, extending the hole allows it clear. I also had to remove the 2 starboard gas tank hold down brackets, as the cable and one of the heater hoses was routed alongside the tank. After all this it went back together fairly easily.
A few observations.
1) I put this off most of the year, anticipating what a pain it would be, It was worse than a feared, yet worth it. The cable had gotten so worn it was difficult to steer at low speeds. Just do it.
2) Tige gave zero thought to replacing the cable. In fact. it's obvious the cable was installed early on in the build. There is NO reason the hole could not have been big enough. The is NO reason to route the cable alongside the gas tank. The hoses could have been routed through a second hole.
3) I put one of the accordion style rubber boots on the rod end instead of the little cap, however I don't think water is the culprit for the cable getting stiff. The rod end is not submerged in bilge water, at least not often. Mine is fresh water only and parked on a lift, so 99.9% of the time it's dry. There was still grease on the 7 year old rod, I do not think water was getting into the cable.
4) Iin the cable installation instruction there is very specific instructions regarding number of bends and bend radius. It says not following these instructions will greatly shorten the cable life. Tige must have thought it would be clean and neat to attach the steering and throttle cables to the back side of the console with screw mount cable ties. In doing so, the cable had 5 small radius bends between the rack and the hole. By eliminating this stupidity I now have one large radius bend from the rack to the hole and the cables are still not in the way of anything. I think this has more to do with longevity than water in the rod end, time will tell.
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https://www.marinepartssource.com/tf...SABEgLzzvD_BwE
SSCX15419 is the "new" part number,
they have -1- left in stock as of now.
If you place the order, the know the part number change and make it happen.
Best deal I was able to find, thought I would share.
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just noticed they did in fact have the SSCX15419 on their site....at a higher price, curious what I will actually be getting charged lol
https://www.marinepartssource.com/xt...ions-sscx15419Last edited by 14burrito; 06-25-2019, 05:44 PM.
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I had tried wedging a box end wrench against the bilge but it kept falling off. But your post got me brainstorming again and I got it. I duct taped the wrench to the bolt while wedged against the bilge so I could then unscrew the nut. Worked! Will work just as well the other way.
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Take a box end wrench and get it to bind up against something solid in the bilge. Then reach in with a second tool and take it off. If you cant get that to work its really not that much work to pull out the port plastic panels around the battery and then remove the battery. At that point you have miles of room. If you go this route DO NOT forget to make your life easy and zip tie the battery leads so a you dont miss a cable when you put the battery back in.
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Any suggestions on getting to the bolt/nut that attaches the cable to the tiller arm on a RZR? I can reach it with one arm and get a wrench on it and cannot get the other arm anywhere near it. I assume it's impossible to do without a helper with equally long arms? The rest of the job seems straightforward but I'm not starting until I figure this out. I took the bulkhead out above the rear of the engine and removed the intake cover which helps but still not near enough.
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Perfect, should make it easier when I replace it in the coming month. Thanks
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