I had a leaking shaft seal the first time I took my boat out (2000 21V), so I called PYI to get some advice on how to figure out if I needed to replace the seal and/or get it working again. Turns out mine wasn't compressed and some woody debris got in between the faces which caused the leaking. I typed up the step by step directions the guy gave me. It all worked pretty easily and I got mine sealed again. Here they are:
A few notes:
- The stainless steel collar has four set screws (two in each hole): the top set screws are locking set screws and the bottom set screws secure it to shaft.
- Some boats, like mine, don't create a vacuum at the water intake, so they don't require a water hose to the seal to stay wet & lubricated.
- I attached a link to the installation instructions. They are pretty helpful because you basically need to uninstall part of it and then re-install.
- PYI has some great videos on youtube that cover some of this. They are here: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC-N...6ua_uGxJiLXB9g
- I included pictures of my whole seal, the dirty face, and the cleaned face.
Steps to service the seal:
1) Back out set screws
2) Slide stainless steel collar forward towards tranny. Use soap as a lubricant if needed, not oil, WD40, siliocone, etc.
3) Inspect the carbon face (it's black) and and stainless steel face (on collar) to see if they are flat. Look for scratches. A mirror like finish is required with no scratching or blemishes.
4) If faces are scratched, then may need replacement. The stainless collar can be turned around to use other side. However, this requires disconnecting the shaft collar to slide it off the shaft, which is a much bigger job. You could have a bluish yellow hue if it got hot due to prop spinning without water (like while it was being trailered).
5) If the faces are not scratched or pitted, wipe them clean with denatured alcohol or acetone. If needed, 600 wet dry sand paper can be used on the stainless face. But don’t use sandpaper on the carbon face.
6) Slide collar down to touching the carbon face (into neutral position). Mark that position with tape or a sharpie.
7) The set screws can be re-used once, but not more. The inner two set screws that hold onto the shaft will be ground down and will lose their cupped point. Don't put this back into the same spot or it won't hold on the shaft. If the outside two still have their point and haven't been swapped, you can put those in the inner position. The second time around, you'd need to buy new set screws.
8) Put a set screw (with point) in each hole. Screw until it touches the shaft, then back out a ¼ turn.
9) Add 3/4 “ compression on the bellows by sliding the collar by hand 3/4" down the shaft from the neutral position. Turn the set screws to hold the collar into place. Once the bottom set screws are in place, add the top two to keep those set screws in place.
(Note: I was only able to get 3/8" compression, but it held water. I'm waiting for an email response from the guy to let me know if that is enough or I need to try again to get more compression).
A few notes:
- The stainless steel collar has four set screws (two in each hole): the top set screws are locking set screws and the bottom set screws secure it to shaft.
- Some boats, like mine, don't create a vacuum at the water intake, so they don't require a water hose to the seal to stay wet & lubricated.
- I attached a link to the installation instructions. They are pretty helpful because you basically need to uninstall part of it and then re-install.
- PYI has some great videos on youtube that cover some of this. They are here: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC-N...6ua_uGxJiLXB9g
- I included pictures of my whole seal, the dirty face, and the cleaned face.
Steps to service the seal:
1) Back out set screws
2) Slide stainless steel collar forward towards tranny. Use soap as a lubricant if needed, not oil, WD40, siliocone, etc.
3) Inspect the carbon face (it's black) and and stainless steel face (on collar) to see if they are flat. Look for scratches. A mirror like finish is required with no scratching or blemishes.
4) If faces are scratched, then may need replacement. The stainless collar can be turned around to use other side. However, this requires disconnecting the shaft collar to slide it off the shaft, which is a much bigger job. You could have a bluish yellow hue if it got hot due to prop spinning without water (like while it was being trailered).
5) If the faces are not scratched or pitted, wipe them clean with denatured alcohol or acetone. If needed, 600 wet dry sand paper can be used on the stainless face. But don’t use sandpaper on the carbon face.
6) Slide collar down to touching the carbon face (into neutral position). Mark that position with tape or a sharpie.
7) The set screws can be re-used once, but not more. The inner two set screws that hold onto the shaft will be ground down and will lose their cupped point. Don't put this back into the same spot or it won't hold on the shaft. If the outside two still have their point and haven't been swapped, you can put those in the inner position. The second time around, you'd need to buy new set screws.
8) Put a set screw (with point) in each hole. Screw until it touches the shaft, then back out a ¼ turn.
9) Add 3/4 “ compression on the bellows by sliding the collar by hand 3/4" down the shaft from the neutral position. Turn the set screws to hold the collar into place. Once the bottom set screws are in place, add the top two to keep those set screws in place.
(Note: I was only able to get 3/8" compression, but it held water. I'm waiting for an email response from the guy to let me know if that is enough or I need to try again to get more compression).
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