Taps-2 oiling the motor.

[whitlock87]

This will show you how to service your TAPS2 Lenco actuator.

You will have to for give me, as I only took picture after the fact.

First, you will need to loosen the cord going to the actuator. This can be done by cutting a tie wrap located in the engine compartment on V-Drive boats. You will need about 2 feet of slack.

Once you have some slack, you will need to remove the two plastic pins that hold the actuator at each end. These pins are tapered at one end, so make sure to push then from the tapered side.

[whitlock87]

With the actuator off, you now need to remove the two acorn nuts that hold the cap on.
Once you have removed these nuts, just pull the cap straight up. I used a screwdriver to help hold the bottom of the actuator, and another to help me pull the top. I inserted both through the hole that the pins use..

[whitlock87]

Once you get it apart, you will see that you have two wires with 1/8” prong connectors.
One pin, you will see a red dot. Remember which wire goes to this location and remove the connectors. (Give the prong a gentle squeeze to ensure a tight fit when reinstalling)
Now you can service / free up the rusted motor.

[whitlock87]

Make sure you use turbine oil, or other type of no conductive oil product design for electric motors. I also used Fogging oil to help remove and control the rust.
I sprayed the fogging oil all over the motor and applied about 5 drops of the turbine oil to the bushing. I then let the actuator sit upside down for about five minuets on a paper towel to allow the oil to drain out,

[whitlock87]

If for some resign you have bad wires, or need to cut the wires, you will have to feed new wires into the cap. Lenco used a ceramic epoxy when they put the actuator together. You will need to drill out the epoxy, to insert the new wires. You will also need to seal the wires. I used marine silicon to do this. Strip off about 2 inches of the wire from the cord (do not strip the wire ends yet) insert them through the cord lock cap, and then trough the newly drilled hole. Once the wire just peeks out of the holes, hill the cord lock with silicone and push the wires in as far as you can. Now tighten the cord lock.

[whitlock87]

Now you can crimp on the new 1/8 inch connectors on to the wires. (I had you wait on striping the wires until after they where pushed trough the Cord lock, in case you got silicone on them. This could prevent a good connection at the motor).
Before putting the cap back on, I put a thin layer of silicon around the o-ring and on the edge of the cap. Now you can push the cap back on. Before putting the washer in place for the acorn nuts, make sure to apply a little silicon around the threads. (Remember that this will be under water most of the time) Now you can put the acorn nuts back on. As you tighten them up, you should see the cap go down and some silicon come out from the crack. This will let you know that you are going to have a watertight seal.

Clean off any old silicone from the boat before getting ready to remount the actuator.
About 2 to 3 inches up from the cap of the actuator, you will need to apply silicon around the cord. Now with somebody in the boat to pull the cord, go ahead and put the actuator back in place. Make sure to insert the pins in the reverse direction that you removed them.
Let it sit for 24 hours to dry, and you should be ok.

( I like to add some extra silicon from the inside of the boat to make sure I have no leaks)

Good luck.