Charging battery

[specialk]

Could not find anything using the search function, but temporary ignoring the battery box label, with all three of the switches turned off, the main red rotary disconnect in the back and the two flip switches under the dash, is there any problem with placing a trickle charger on the battery post with out disconnecting everything. I did it last night at 9pm and did not see the warning until this a.m., took the boat out and did not have any issues, for future reference I just wanted to know yalls opinion.

Thanks

[MRMoffat1]

Could not find anything using the search function, but temporary ignoring the battery box label, with all three of the switches turned off, the main red rotary disconnect in the back and the two flip switches under the dash, is there any problem with placing a trickle charger on the battery post with out disconnecting everything. I did it last night at 9pm and did not see the warning until this a.m., took the boat out and did not have any issues, for future reference I just wanted to know yalls opinion.

Thanks

I'd like to know the answer too. I've been charging 2 and 3 battery banks with everything hooked up for a couple of years now without any issues so far. Ignored the battery box label. Issues?

[Carter13]

From what I have researched it can screw up the electronics.
I disconnect during the winter and charge.

[gman]

how does it screw up the electronics?

[R&T Babich]

how does it screw up the electronics?

I second that question.

A battery charger doesn't output more than an alternator.
Alternators can output up to about 17v unregulated. The regulator will control the voltage needed to properly charge a battery, typically around 13.7v. I have had an external regulator and an RV power converter stick on max output which overcharges the batteries, but didn't damage anything else.

As with any power supply do not connect/disconnect a battery charger or alternator while the device is running or a voltage spike/arc could cause electronics to be damaged. Most of my battery chargers do not have On/Off switches so I do have to remember to pull the power plug before connecting/disconnecting it.

I recently added a Blue Sea 6010 dual circuit master switch. It disconnects everything from the dual batteries. If I smell something electrical burning I can disconnect everything fast. I've moved all battery connections to the switch which makes changing a battery easier and reduces connector corrosion because they are away from the battery. One exception - hook the alternator charging lines to the 6010 battery side connection. When I hook up a charger to the 7610 automatic battery charging relay both batteries will get charged and nothing else in the boat is connected.

[chpthril]

Some roll-around shop chargers can actually put out enough voltage to damage some electrical components. The chargers typically have 50A setting and a "Boost/Jump Start" setting that can be more then 200A's. A battery tender or a small battery charger would probably not cause a problem. It's more of a CYA then anything, but damage could be caused.

[R&T Babich]

Some roll-around shop chargers can actually put out enough voltage to damage some electrical components. The chargers typically have 50A setting and a "Boost/Jump Start" setting that can be more then 200A's. A battery tender or a small battery charger would probably not cause a problem. It's more of a CYA then anything, but damage could be caused.

My 200A roll-around shop charger is the only one I have with an On/Off switch.
I don't think it will put out more voltage than an alternator can.
It's the voltage that will take out electronics.
Amps is what can be supplied to a device like gallons per hour.
It's the pressure (volts) that can hurt.
It's the arc created when connecting/disconnecting a live device that kills electronics, just like a static spark on a computer motherboard.
So, yes, CYA and disconnect everything before making electrical connections.

Note: This applies to changing a 1,2,BOTH,OFF switch with the engine running unless the switch has the alt diode protection feature.

[chpthril]

No offence, but I dont need an electrical 101course . My reference to Amps, was to indicate popular settings on chargers and not a statement to indicate that amp flow causes damage. Large heavy-duty chargers can produce excessive voltage when placed on a fast-charge or boost/jump setting. With 99% of the chargers out there, you will not have an issue, s0 disconnecting everything is not needed.


As far as moving the switch, I believe Perko's are not a make-break switch. The contact on the switch will actually make connection with the next position, before breaking contact with the previous position, therefore, no arc. "OFF" is a different matter though. I have one out right now and will go test my theory!

My 200A roll-around shop charger is the only one I have with an On/Off switch.
I don't think it will put out more voltage than an alternator can.
It's the voltage that will take out electronics.
Amps is what can be supplied to a device like gallons per hour.
It's the pressure (volts) that can hurt.
It's the arc created when connecting/disconnecting a live device that kills electronics, just like a static spark on a computer motherboard.
So, yes, CYA and disconnect everything before making electrical connections.

Note: This applies to changing a 1,2,BOTH,OFF switch with the engine running unless the switch has the alt diode protection feature.

[gman]

So what do you do when jump starting a dead battery? You will draw an arc. If this is an issue does anyone know why either the boat manufacturer or the electronics folks do not install suppressors to mitigate a potential problem???

[brett22i]

I worked in the marine industry for a few years, had to jump start/charge hundreds of batteries and never once paid attention to the warning to disconnect the electronic leads from the battery.
I had just purchased my boat, since it was used and dirty, I spent the day cleaning it and I put the batteries on the charger (regular charge), came back the next day to find my Clarion head unit dead. Not one fuse was blown. Whatever it was, fried the internal circuit in the head unit.
It was a very costly mistake and will not happen again.

[gman]

Anyone have a goos recommendation for a voltage suppressor? Does anyone know if tige plans to install a suppressor on future models to mitigate this issue?

[chpthril]

Some roll-around shop chargers can actually put out enough voltage to damage some electrical components. The chargers typically have 50A setting and a "Boost/Jump Start" setting that can be more then 200A's. A battery tender or a small battery charger would probably not cause a problem. It's more of a CYA then anything, but damage could be caused.

I know this thread is a little old, but here is a pic of what I was talking about. This is a typical roll-around shop charger. It's set on a 12V 20A charge. As you can see, it easily busted 15V's, which is more then a typical 12V alternator. Most modern electrical devices can withstand some high voltage, but, high voltage can let let the smoke out.

This is why the sticker is there.