Heater not hot

[off2board]

Has anyone seen any type of an upgrade you can buy for your heater, so that when you are at idleing speeds, the heater blows warmer air?
Currently at idle speed the air is still a bit cool. and I dont want to run a higher idle just to get the air hot.

[chpthril]

There is a mod that can be done. I cant remember if it was just moving one of the hoses or installing a fitting of some kind. Try the "search" button but I'll bet someone that knows will post up.

[scoot18]

I would think that you would need some type of circulation pump added in line to the supply hose, something to push the water with more pressure when at a lower idle speed. I am sure there is some kind of 12v pump that can be added in line, the key would be cycling the pump, on when at idle and turn off when throttle is applied.

[phooley]

I have the same problem with my heater because I live in the UK and the water temperature is very cold and unless the boat is doing more than 30mph the heater is only luke warm. I have thought about installing a closed cooling system like a car to keep the engine temperature constant. The quick fix though I suppose is to advance the timing slightly to run the engine warmer, however I'm no expert and do not know what the consequences would be

[blownC6]

You're gonna want one of these



Check here http://www.go2marine.com/product.do?no=100207F or here(but they're more expensive) http://www.heatercraft.com/ProductIn...productid=H424

I had the same problem till I added the Y-fitting, now I have plenty of heat at idle. They come in a couple different sizes so check that you get the correct one.
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[off2board]

You're gonna want one of these



Check here http://www.go2marine.com/product.do?no=100207F or here(but they're more expensive) http://www.heatercraft.com/ProductIn...productid=H424

I had the same problem till I added the Y-fitting, now I have plenty of heat at idle. They come in a couple different sizes so check that you get the correct one.
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Get outta here...there is a simple fix for this issue?
Well, this will be a first in my life....Ill fo shoooo be ordering one and be trying it out in spring...thanks for the tip!

[off2board]

I was looking on heatercrafts website, and they said that if you are experiancing luke warm air during idleing speeds, it may be because the heater is over a foot above the engine, or your supply line is too long...if thats the case, they recommended an "in-line cirulation pump kit" which costs 150 clams. They say this is the fix and never mentioned the y-fitting.
blownc6, this fitting really worked for you? Is your heat nearly the same temp when running at higher rpms?

[blownC6]

I was looking on heatercrafts website, and they said that if you are experiancing luke warm air during idleing speeds, it may be because the heater is over a foot above the engine, or your supply line is too long...if thats the case, they recommended an "in-line cirulation pump kit" which costs 150 clams. They say this is the fix and never mentioned the y-fitting.
blownc6, this fitting really worked for you? Is your heat nearly the same temp when running at higher rpms?

First off I'm no expert, I'm just reporting my experience(your mileage may vary).I agree off2board, if your heater is above your hot water supply you'll need the supplemental pump. At idle rpm the water pump just doesn't create enough pressure to move the hot water uphill very well. My heater sits about level with the engine so the Y-fitting worked for me. I'm not the greatest artist but check out the diagram I made and you can kinda get an idea of how it works. The low pressure created on the lake-water side of the pump draws water from the heater core more efficiently, more flow, more heat. And yes, at idle the temp of the air is greatly improved, maybe not as hot as normal boarding rpm but I'd say maybe 90%(for me anyway).

[off2board]

Thanks for the sketch. either way, Im not dishing out 150 for that circulation pump so trying this y-fitting will have to do. Seems like it the sea water pump helps to increase the flow..I see why it would help.
Thumbs up.

[R&T Babich]

.... The low pressure created on the lake-water side of the pump draws water from the heater core more efficiently, more flow, more heat....

I can see how this would work to increase flow thru the heater core.
Should the Y fitting go in the raw water line "after" the various coolers - V-drive, trans, fuel?
"After" all the coolers would mean the raw water supply hose going into the engine cooling water pump.

[blownC6]

Here's a picture of how I have mine installed.

[zad0030]

First off I'm no expert, I'm just reporting my experience(your mileage may vary).I agree off2board, if your heater is above your hot water supply you'll need the supplemental pump. At idle rpm the water pump just doesn't create enough pressure to move the hot water uphill very well. My heater sits about level with the engine so the Y-fitting worked for me. I'm not the greatest artist but check out the diagram I made and you can kinda get an idea of how it works. The low pressure created on the lake-water side of the pump draws water from the heater core more efficiently, more flow, more heat. And yes, at idle the temp of the air is greatly improved, maybe not as hot as normal boarding rpm but I'd say maybe 90%(for me anyway).

That's exactly how Malibu has mine installed.

[talltigeguy]

So then you have to put a plug on the spot where the heater currently comes from, right?

[zad0030]

So then you have to put a plug on the spot where the heater currently comes from, right?

Where it returns.

[blownC6]

So then you have to put a plug on the spot where the heater currently comes from, right?

Yes, and as zad0030 said "where it returns".

As long as we're talking about heater installs here's something else to consider. The heater core broke on my first unit and I had no easy way to shut off the water. Lesson learned..... I installed a ball valve in the supply line(see pic). The valve was cheap, easy to install, maybe 10 minutes, and if it happens again it won't end our day at the lake.