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    HELP NEED TECHNICAL INFO

    HELLO EVERYONE I HAVE A BIG PROJECT. I AM TOTALLY NEW TO BOATS. I ANYWAY CHOSE TO START WITH AN 06` 24VE. HERES THE CATCH THE PREVIOUSE OWNER SANK IT AND I MEAN ALL THE WAY OVER THE TOWER. I GOT IT FOR REAL CHEAP SO NOT WORRIED ABOUT THAT YET. I NEED TO KNOW WHERE I CAN GET TECH DATA. MANUELS? WIRING SCHEMATICS ECT ECT.. IT HAS THE 380HP 6.0L VORTEC MOTOR. IT IS DEFINETLY GOING TO BE A PROJECT BUT I NEED LITERATURE BEFORE I CAN DO MUCH OF ANYTHING. I AM A HIGHLY EXPERIENCED AUTO TECHNICIAN SO I HAVE THE TOOLS AND KNOWLEDGE BUT WITHOUT KNOWING HOW THE SYSTEMS WORK AND HOW THEY ARE LAYED OUT THE PROJECT GOES FROM BEING MODERATE IN DIFFICULTY TO EXCRUCIATING. ANY HELP WITH TECHNICAL RESOURCES WOULD BE GREATLY APPRECIATED.

    THANKS

    #2
    Originally posted by VENOMCRX1991 View Post
    HELLO EVERYONE I HAVE A BIG PROJECT. I AM TOTALLY NEW TO BOATS. I ANYWAY CHOSE TO START WITH AN 06` 24VE. HERES THE CATCH THE PREVIOUSE OWNER SANK IT AND I MEAN ALL THE WAY OVER THE TOWER. I GOT IT FOR REAL CHEAP SO NOT WORRIED ABOUT THAT YET. I NEED TO KNOW WHERE I CAN GET TECH DATA. MANUELS? WIRING SCHEMATICS ECT ECT.. IT HAS THE 380HP 6.0L VORTEC MOTOR. IT IS DEFINETLY GOING TO BE A PROJECT BUT I NEED LITERATURE BEFORE I CAN DO MUCH OF ANYTHING. I AM A HIGHLY EXPERIENCED AUTO TECHNICIAN SO I HAVE THE TOOLS AND KNOWLEDGE BUT WITHOUT KNOWING HOW THE SYSTEMS WORK AND HOW THEY ARE LAYED OUT THE PROJECT GOES FROM BEING MODERATE IN DIFFICULTY TO EXCRUCIATING. ANY HELP WITH TECHNICAL RESOURCES WOULD BE GREATLY APPRECIATED.

    THANKS
    Contact Lee Ramirez or Harvey at Tige. They should be able to get you some info.

    P.S. Might want to find the capslock key on your computer
    Cursed by a fortune cookie: "Your principles mean more to you than any money or success."

    Comment


      #3
      THANKS FOR THE P.S.. MY WORK COMPUTER IS SET UP TO HAVE CAPS ALL THE TIME FOR OUR DISPATCH SYSTEM BUT THANKS. AND THANKS FOR THE INFO.

      Comment


        #4
        I would say that you would just need to replace all the electronics such as ECM, gauges, stereo components, battery, TAPS motor, Accu-Set, etc. New engine/rebuild the engine, trans, and V-drive. Most everything else would survive and work fine once dried out

        Well, try the manufacturers:
        engine is PCM
        trans is Borg Warner
        V-drive is Walter
        gauges are Faria
        stereo H/U is Clarion (if factory)
        Amps are Kicker (if factory)

        Good luck getting a wiring diag from Tige, send a PM (private message) to Harvey Smith @ Tige and see what they may have available. Other then that, this will be your best resource for info. Sounds like a killer project, post some pics as you go.

        Let us know if you have any specific questions.
        Mikes Liquid Audio: Knowledge Experience Customer Service you can trust-KICKER WetSounds ACME props FlyHigh Custom Ballast Clarion LiquidLumens LEDs Roswell Wave Deflector And More

        Comment


          #5
          Engine should be a Marine Power in a 2006.

          Comment


            #6
            ^^^^ I was thinking the 6.0's were still PCM's in 06
            Mikes Liquid Audio: Knowledge Experience Customer Service you can trust-KICKER WetSounds ACME props FlyHigh Custom Ballast Clarion LiquidLumens LEDs Roswell Wave Deflector And More

            Comment


              #7
              The ones we sold were Marine Power.

              Comment


                #8
                WELL MY FIRST SPECIFIC QUESTION IS ABOUT THE FUEL SYSTEM. WHERE IS THE FUEL PUMP CIRCUIT AND FUSE? I THINK THE PUMP IS SHOT BUT I NEED TO VERIFY THE CIRCUIT FIRST. THE PUMP DOES RUN BUT IT IS ONLY ABOUT 4PSI AND SPUTTERING ON VOLUME. THE DRIVETRAIN IS FINE I FLUSHED EVERYTHING OUT OIL IS CLEAN AND EVERYTHING RUNS SMOOTH WHEN RUN FROM AN EXTERNAL FUEL SOURCE. I THINK THE PUMP IS BAD BUT THE CORROSION ON SOME OF THE ELECTRICAL COULD BE CONTRIBUTING TO EXCESSIVE RESISTANCE IN THE CIRCUIT. ALSO IS THERE A TEST PLUG FOR THE FUEL PUMP. IT IS A GM ENGINE AND HARNESS AND USUALLY THERE IS A TEST PLUG THAT ALLOWS YOU TO FEED THE PUMP DIRECT VOLTAGE. THERE ARE AT LEAST THREE UNUSED CONNECTORS ON TOP OF THE ENGINE DIRECTLY BEHIND THE ALTERNATOR AND I WAS WONDERING IF ONE OF THEM WAS THAT TEST CONNECTOR.

                Comment


                  #9
                  ALSO WHATS THE INTERFACE FOR THE PCM? DOES IT HAVE A DLC(DATA LINK CONNECTOR) SOMEPLACE? AND IS THE SCAN TOOL NEEDED A PROPRIETARY DESIGN OR WILL A GENERIC SCAN TOOL OR A GM TECH 2 COMMUNICATE WITH IT? AND WHAT THE HELL IS THE EAR PEIRCING LITTLE SIREN FOR THATS UP UNDER THE DASH, DAMN THAT THING IS LOUD. AND WHERE IS THE FUSE BLOCK? I FOUND OF COURSE THE LARGE BLACK BREAKER BOX AND NONE OF THEM ARE TRIPPED BUT WHERE ARE THE FUSES? THANKS FOR YOUR INPUT. I WILL GET SOME PICS UP SOON.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    You should have a black box on the engine with 4 screws and inside are the fuses for the ecm, fuel pump , and relays and main engine circut breaker mounted on a printed circut board, this box is not weather proof and water will get in and corrode the circut board. There is also an additional electrical plug with aprox 5 wires that are red that can be jumped to run the fuel pumps on the engine harness. You have to have a dedicated soft ware to scan any data.

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Originally posted by VENOMCRX1991 View Post
                      ALSO WHATS THE INTERFACE FOR THE PCM? DOES IT HAVE A DLC(DATA LINK CONNECTOR) SOMEPLACE? AND IS THE SCAN TOOL NEEDED A PROPRIETARY DESIGN OR WILL A GENERIC SCAN TOOL OR A GM TECH 2 COMMUNICATE WITH IT? AND WHAT THE HELL IS THE EAR PEIRCING LITTLE SIREN FOR THATS UP UNDER THE DASH, DAMN THAT THING IS LOUD. AND WHERE IS THE FUSE BLOCK? I FOUND OF COURSE THE LARGE BLACK BREAKER BOX AND NONE OF THEM ARE TRIPPED BUT WHERE ARE THE FUSES? THANKS FOR YOUR INPUT. I WILL GET SOME PICS UP SOON.
                      You are definitely fresh off of the boat in regards to boats. All boats have a warning buzzer when the ignition is in the "ON" position to warn anyone nearby that there is a possibility of getting shredded to pieces by moving parts. On boats they use a CAN BUS system to interface. I also think the motor is going to be a Marine Power instead of PCM but that should be easy to figure out by just lifting the engine hatch and reading the plastic shroud.
                      "a what? i can['t] say/spell/pronounce that word..." - wannabewakeboarder
                      "the plural of boo is booze."

                      Comment


                        #12
                        here are some drawng references. They are for a 2005,24v with a 340 hp marine power engine but may be of some help
                        Harn, acc, eng Drawing 36398 Uniforce techologies made the drawings
                        PNL, INST Drawing 37072 Uniforce Techonologies made the drawing
                        Do not know if this will help, but its a starting point.
                        Uniforce technologies is in Little Rock Ar.

                        Comment


                          #13
                          YES I AM VERY NEW TO BOATS. BUT THE BUZZER IS ON AT ALL TIMES. EVEN WHEN THE ENGINE IS RUNNING IT STAYS ON ALL THE TIME.

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Originally posted by VENOMCRX1991 View Post
                            YES I AM VERY NEW TO BOATS. BUT THE BUZZER IS ON AT ALL TIMES. EVEN WHEN THE ENGINE IS RUNNING IT STAYS ON ALL THE TIME.
                            Check to see if the knock sensor wire is hooked to the knock sensor on the starboard side of the engine. If that wire is not connected the alarm will go constant.

                            Comment


                              #15
                              OK WELL I JUST DISCONNECTED THE BUZZER FOR NOW I WILL GET TO THAT LATER. SO FAR THINGS ARE LOOKING PRETTY GOOD. THE DECK AND AMPS ARE FRIED BUT ONLY ONE SPEAKER MET ITS FATE WITH THE WATER. THE ELECTRICAL CENTER ON THE BACK OF THE MOTOR IS CORRODED REALLY BAD. THE FUEL PUMP RELAY AND EVERYTHING IN THAT BOX IS NO GOOD, SO ILL HAVE TO REPLACE THAT FIRST BEFORE I CONDEMN ANYTHING ELSE. ALL THE INTERIOR IS FINE, IM GOING TO UNCOVER ALL THE SEATS AND MAKE SURE THERE IS NO WATER IN THE FOAM THAT WILL MOLD ON ME. ALL IN ALL ITS LOOKING SO FAR TO BE MINIMAL DAMAGE. THANKS FOR ALL THE ADVICE SO FAR FROM EVERYONE. I WILL KEEP UPDATING ON MY PROGRESS AND SHOULD HAVE SOME PICS UP SOON.

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