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    Ignition Switch replacement

    I seem to have the weirdest things go wrong with my 98 2100i. Now the ignition switch has broken and there are no click stops between off, run, and start. I've seen car ignition switches break but they get used a lot. Are there any guidelines to buying a new ignition switch? Is any one better than the rest?
    David
    David
    Lubbock, TX

    #2
    Originally posted by drgibson View Post
    I seem to have the weirdest things go wrong with my 98 2100i. Now the ignition switch has broken and there are no click stops between off, run, and start. I've seen car ignition switches break but they get used a lot. Are there any guidelines to buying a new ignition switch? Is any one better than the rest?
    David
    All over the internet and very easy to change. You may need to cut the old crimp connectors off if the screws have become seized.

    Here's one from dim, but it is $$$ compared to other places.
    http://www.skidim.com/prodinfo.asp?number=SIEMP39200

    I bought mine on ebay for > $10. Here's one.
    http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Marin...spagenameZWD1V
    http://www.wakeboatworld.com
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      #3
      It shouldn't be much of a replacement. One wire should be hot, touch it to another wire and the beeping should start leaving a third wire to kick the starter. Should be pretty straight forward. I'll pick up a new switch locally and hope it matches the rest of the dash. I didn't know if Tige used a particular brand but they all seem about the same. I can crimp new connectors on if needed.
      David
      Lubbock, TX

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        #4
        Actually, it is even easier than that. The position tangs are marked on the back of the switch, so just move them over letter to letter. I purchased a replacement with ACC position as well, but I have not installed it yet. It also has a disconnected output for when the boat is starting, hot all other positions. I guess that makes it a 5-way plug. ACC - OFF - ON - Start - OFF while Start
        http://www.wakeboatworld.com
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          #5
          Yeah, assuming the manufacturers used the same codes on both switches. As I recall, when I changed out my VDO fuel gauge for the case splitting problem described in another thread here, the codes didn't match up or didn't exist but I got it to work and I'll get this one to work too.

          You bring up an interesting point. What would you connect to the OFF while Start terminal? Audio systems and tower lighting I suppose.
          David
          Lubbock, TX

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