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    Bilge pump not operating

    Hello all!

    Lots of great info!

    As I ldled back to my dock today I noticed that the bilge hadn't run at all while being out. I just got the boat back from service and when I put the boat away last winter, the bilge pump was operating perfectly both automatically and when switched on from the dash.

    I did notice that when I was prepping the boat for going back on the water the other day the breaker for my stereo amps was popped. Does the bilge pump have a fuse as well? All other electrical components are working perfectly. Is there a fuse among the many on the dash that is for the bilge? I tried the dash bilge switch, but got nothing except the light in the switch came on like normal.

    I totally forgot about checking for the fuse, but its too late tonight to go down to the dock and check it. Will have to be tomorrow afternoon.

    If it doesn't, where the heck is the bilge pump located?? Is it that hard to get to and replace?
    The boat is a 2002 22i.

    Any info would be great!! Thanks in advance!

    #2
    they go bad. What year boat. On older ones, the switch and the pump are behind the thermal breakers. That would indicate time to replace the pump possibly. More info please.
    http://www.wakeboatworld.com
    []) [] []V[] [])

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      #3
      The boat is a 2002 22i. What are the "thermal" breakers? I know I have a line of breakers on the right side of the dash. Is there one there that is labeled for the bilge?

      Since I bought the boat new, I haven't had any fuse or breaker issues.

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        #4
        In our 2000 21V the bilge pump/float is right next to the rudder arm. There is a circuit breaker on our dash mixed in with other systems. The "Bilge" switch appears to be a control switch that closes a relay circuit in the solid state module on the kick panel in front of the driver's seat. The higher current goes from the module to the circuit breaker on the dash, then on to the pump. My guess would be the breaker popped, the pump is dead or the relay function in the module is dead - in that order. With a voltmeter just follow the 12v.

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          #5
          That helps. I will check the breaker tomorrow and just go from there. Hopefully that's all it is.
          Thanks again!

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            #6
            The row of breakers are thermal breakers. They trip based on the heat buildup as a side effect of the current in the breaker.

            One of the ones in that row is likely dedicated to the bilge pump. They do not go bad often. I would look to the pump for the problem.

            On i models, the bilge pump used to be located in the center of the bilge right behind the foward plug. Open the hood and look on the bottom in front of the motor.

            They are wired with 3 wires. One is always hot, bypasses the switch, and goes to the automatic float on the auto models. One is a ground. The third is switched 12V. There should be a little knob on the side that you can turn by hand to test the pump operation. This is connected to the float, and is simply turning on the auto bilge.
            http://www.wakeboatworld.com
            []) [] []V[] [])

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              #7
              I would mirror what SP said and as said it's probably the pump itself. Test the circuit and replace as neccessary.
              "Call me anything you want ... Just don't call me NOBODY!

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                #8
                Awesome info! That's what I was looking for!

                Quick question:
                The knob that you mentioned to test the pump..........will it be visible? Is it as simple as just turning it on/off? to run the test?

                I will check it as soon as I get home.

                Sounds like it is not that big of deal to replace the pump should it be defective.

                Anyone ever replaced a bilge pump on an "I" model boat?

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                  #9
                  Originally posted by mxski7 View Post
                  Awesome info! That's what I was looking for!

                  Quick question:
                  The knob that you mentioned to test the pump..........will it be visible? Is it as simple as just turning it on/off? to run the test?

                  I will check it as soon as I get home.

                  Sounds like it is not that big of deal to replace the pump should it be defective.

                  Anyone ever replaced a bilge pump on an "I" model boat?
                  I have.
                  They do go bad.
                  My particular pump was the same you can buy online from just about any boating place, and even some Wall Marts that are close to Recreational waters carry them.
                  Cheap and easy.
                  Heck, buy a spare.

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                    #10
                    I was thinking the same thing.........just buy two...........I know they aren't too expensive...

                    Sticky, was replacing it easy?

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                      #11
                      Depending on the model, you will have the knob or not. It is usually just a knurled knob on the side of the pump that sometimes says "test" near it. You may not have that feature.
                      http://www.wakeboatworld.com
                      []) [] []V[] [])

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                        #12
                        Well, no breakers were tripped, but somehow the damn stereo switch was left on so my batteries had hardly any juice in them! I was able to reach down and feel around the bilge pump............no knob, but when I hit the bilge switch on the dash I could hear the bilge pump working, but not enough water to do anything. Must just not have enough water in the bilge for to be pumped yet. Its pretty darn dry even sitting in the water for a week and running around the lake a few times.

                        I will charge the batteries over the next few nights and check it again later in the week.

                        Thanks for the tips!

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                          #13
                          So how does the bilge exactly work anyways? I'm pretty sure I'm having problems with mine also. I found out the hard way that when you let off the throttle too quick with people in the bow, it tends to nose under and take on a lot of water. I would flick the bilge switch to the on position and nothing would happen. Then I'd hit the button under th switch and the light would come on periodically, but the pump wasn't doing anything. Am I supposed to leave the switch in the on position and it will run when it needs to, or will it always continue to run when switched on? And how much water needs to be in the bilge prior to the pump running. When I detected a problem, I hit the trailer to pull out and drain it manually. Probably dumped for a solid 5 minutes after removal of the plug. I'm sure it was enough that the bilge pump should have been running. Also, does it discharge on the left side of the boat about halfway up? Where should I start my troubleshooting? Thanks for the help, I am very new to this and need lots of it

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                            #14
                            u know mine doesnt always work on my 22i... but mine also comes on automatically if i dont do it manualy??? is that right.. is it supposed to do that?

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                              #15
                              They all have automatic bilge pumps. They are triggered by a float. There has to be enough water to cover the entire bilge pump for it to come on.
                              Cursed by a fortune cookie: "Your principles mean more to you than any money or success."

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