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Tower Removal Fiasco, How to Run Tower Speaker Wires?

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    Tower Removal Fiasco, How to Run Tower Speaker Wires?

    I was going to do a little winter project on my 2005 Type E tower. I figured I would remove it from the boat to hydro blast and remove the powder coat, polish the tubing, run some wires and add some tower speakers... got stopped on step #1.

    I pulled the side cushion next on the port side to see how the rear tower leg was fastened. The hex keyed bolt holding the rear leg to the deck didn’t have any backing plate, washer or nut. Looks to be straight through the fiberglass rail. “Easy to remove”, I thought. ... after about 30 minutes of putting my 220lbs behind a stout long throw 8mm hex key (also tried attaching a 12 in. Crescent wrench), I couldn’t get that bolt to budge. I noticed I was starting to round out the hex channel in the top of the bolt which was my signal to quit.

    I’m guessing that bolt may be glued in place. I would like to hear from anyone who’s successfully removed their tower and how they dealt with a stuck bolt.

    So thinking about plan B. Just running the tower wires and installing the speakers. Which tower leg has the wire to the Nav light? Is the hole big enough to fish a pair of speaker cables?

    Thanks!



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    #2
    There is steel plate glassed into the underside of the deck, which is threaded for the bolt. So wrenching on the hex is the way to remove it. Likely the stainless bolt has corroded with the dissimilar steel plate, and bound the bolt up. Normally, heat and PB Blaster is the best course of action. But heat is not really applicable here. reaching the bottom side of the threads might be tough, and it could take some time for PB to wick down from the top and do any good.

    May consider drilling the head off, removing the tower and then soaking with PB and using a quality stud remover like from snapon or MAC. This would allow you to thread the stud both in and out, working it loose.

    NAV wires go down STBD side. The tower is large enough to accommodate speaker wires, but the STBD side hole in the deck may not be large enough. But, if you are pulling the tower, its a non-issue, you can enlarge the hole.
    Mikes Liquid Audio: Knowledge Experience Customer Service you can trust-KICKER WetSounds ACME props FlyHigh Custom Ballast Clarion LiquidLumens LEDs Roswell Wave Deflector And More

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      #3
      Originally posted by chpthril View Post
      There is steel plate glassed into the underside of the deck, which is threaded for the bolt. So wrenching on the hex is the way to remove it. Likely the stainless bolt has corroded with the dissimilar steel plate, and bound the bolt up. Normally, heat and PB Blaster is the best course of action. But heat is not really applicable here. reaching the bottom side of the threads might be tough, and it could take some time for PB to wick down from the top and do any good.

      May consider drilling the head off, removing the tower and then soaking with PB and using a quality stud remover like from snapon or MAC. This would allow you to thread the stud both in and out, working it loose.

      NAV wires go down STBD side. The tower is large enough to accommodate speaker wires, but the STBD side hole in the deck may not be large enough. But, if you are pulling the tower, its a non-issue, you can enlarge the hole.
      Thanks Mike. I figured there was something real holding that bolt in place. I may run some PB Blaster on those rear bolts and let them sit for a week and try again.

      Is there enough flex in the tower to unbolt the front stbd leg and bend it to the side and widen the hole where the Nav wires run up through the deck?


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        #4
        Is there enough flex in the tower to unbolt the REAR stbd leg and bend it to the side and widen the hole where the Nav wires run up through the deck?
        Yes, but all the wires come out of the rear leg and through the deck.
        Mikes Liquid Audio: Knowledge Experience Customer Service you can trust-KICKER WetSounds ACME props FlyHigh Custom Ballast Clarion LiquidLumens LEDs Roswell Wave Deflector And More

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          #5
          Originally posted by chpthril View Post
          Yes, but all the wires come out of the rear leg and through the deck.
          Yes. Thanks. I shot the rear stbd mounting bolt with penetrating oil. I’m giving it a week and will try again. I’m doubtful that will work. Plan B, I think, is to drill a hole near the port front leg and run wires up the tower. I’ve seen some pics of fittings/caps where the wire leaves the gunnel and enters the tower. Can you or somebody provide a link to where I can buy these? Also, any issues in passing the wire through the section of the tower about 1/3 of the way up where it looks like it’s meant to fold?


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            #6
            Also, any issues in passing the wire through the section of the tower about 1/3 of the way up where it looks like it’s meant to fold?
            That is the hinge for folding the tower. Fold it down and you will see how the NAV light wires are routed through on the STBD side.
            Mikes Liquid Audio: Knowledge Experience Customer Service you can trust-KICKER WetSounds ACME props FlyHigh Custom Ballast Clarion LiquidLumens LEDs Roswell Wave Deflector And More

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              #7
              I finally got the tower off. Lots of corrosion in the rear leg bolts made for a tough job. Had to drill out one of the bolts and use a large pipe wrench to remove the stud.



              Once the tower was in my garage I removed the racks and bolts at the tower hinge. I was surprised how small the hole is where the Nav wires run. I’m not sure why there is such a big connector at this junction. It does look factory.





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