99 21v prop won't engage

[Mick21v]

Hey y'all new to site and new to the world of inboard. I just recently sold my i/o of 8 years and got a 99 21v 350 Merc/Walter V. First time out ran great up until loading, was in shallow water on a river an hit a log at idle speed. Docked/trailered small ding in prop. Trip two same thing ran great, driving on trailer load clunk, pull out small chunk miss out of prop and small fold in one finn. Went to cruise today was attempting to back of trailer and had no forward or reverse drive. Could hear like it was trying to engage but wasn't. Checked cable and it was moving freely and can defiantly hear a difference in engine noise between throttled in neutral and in gear. Also checked to see if there were any bolts loose or lost where she is coupled. Prop turns but not freely almost need to hands to spin. Took inspection plate off and part that's right on top between the engine and the vdrive spins freely. All fluids are full, clear and smell fine. Any thoughts or things I could check. Thanx

[chpthril]

What part of the v-drive spins free while the prop shaft does not? They are connected together mechanically up to the point of hydraulic pressure connects the flywheel to the trans' input shaft. Sounds like something broke due to strike.

[Mick21v]

There is a small inspection plate right on the v drive prob only 1"x3" two bolts, maybe the flywheel? It spins, but the shaft coming out the bottom doesn't unless hand turned by the prop below. Any thoughts what would've broke first or anything to check before opening the old wallet?

[Mick21v]

Anyone ever have the shaft log break?

[gumby]

Ok the v drive doesn't connect to engine directly there is the transmission between them. I am concerned about you driving the boat around with a damaged prop. I would think that you could do lots of different types of damage to the entire drive system.If the vibration was bad enough. you could brake the shaft. The sheer key at the prop could be sheered. also at the other end there is a Waldorf key not likely sheered but possible. I assume you were driving it around with a damaged prop you made no mention of changing it.
The sheer key would be my first guess. Are you running the boat on the trailer?

[Mick21v]

Before the incident the prop was not damaged it is now and I’m going to replace it. Prop is also fully connected to the shaft for when I spin it by hand it spins the shaft. I took a marker and marked the shaft and coupling and spun the prop by hand and the marks were different so I am assuming that I shared the Key I just ordered a fake lake and was going to hook it up tonight and put it in drive and see if I can see the coupling spinning. If that’s the case can I slide the shaft out and slide a new key. Is that pretty simple or is that a big headache also where can I find a key way?

[gumby]

You said
Trip 1..... all was good. loading you ding the prop
Trip 2..... loading you fold a blade
Here it what I would do. #1 pull the prop send it out to repair #2 buy a spare. If the key is good on the prop. Move up to the coupler. four bolts hold it to the Vdrive undo them.Then there are set screws loosen them then there is a big nut holding the coupler to the shaft, then the coupler is pressed on the tapered shaft.(like the prop) under all that is the Waldorf key. (It might be a sheer key) If all this is good. now you are into the Vdrive. If the ding in the prop was bad enough. The second trip(dinged prop) could have caused significant damage to the drive components. Just my I would not run the boat on the trailer with a fold in the prop. I see gelcoat damage in your future if you do. There is no water resistance.
Also that ramp HAND LOAD the boat.

[chpthril]

Can you post a pic of the two pieces you marked, then spun?

[TeamAllen]

I always thought you should never run your boat in drive, out of the water.

[gumby]

You shouldn't. There are times you don't have much choice I don't think you should "RUN" the boat out of the water but popping it gear for a few seconds shouldn't hurt anything. The strut/packing gland are the only things not being lubed by water.

[Mick21v]

So I pulled the bolts for the coupling out they were not very tight and was able to slide the coupling back only about a quarter of an inch and could see inside and there was some metal shavings so I’m guessing that was the keyway that gave out. My next question is should that coupling be able to slide down the shaft or do I need to remove the packing and the prop slide the shaft out to remove the coupling and not to put a new keyway in?

[Mick21v]

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[dogbert]

Before the incident the prop was not damaged it is now and I’m going to replace it. Prop is also fully connected to the shaft for when I spin it by hand it spins the shaft. I took a marker and marked the shaft and coupling and spun the prop by hand and the marks were different so I am assuming that I shared the Key I just ordered a fake lake and was going to hook it up tonight and put it in drive and see if I can see the coupling spinning. If that’s the case can I slide the shaft out and slide a new key. Is that pretty simple or is that a big headache also where can I find a key way?

I also have an older Tige 21v. We hit a submerged log last summer and as far as I could tell, there wasn't any damage to my prop, shaft or its alignment. However, earlier this year, we were out surfing and after stopping to pick up a rider I heard lots of clunking noises when putting it in gear and then nothing. The transmission would engage, but no power to the prop. The prop coupler had come apart (all the bolts broke). In the process it bent the shaft and the strut. We're still not sure if the two incidents are related or if it's just an age thing. The point is, even if there is no vibration, I'd have a shop check out the alignment.